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Finbarqs

Inokatsu M1911A1 Standard Edition

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My Unboxing Video

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Impressions

 

Upon opening the box has been less than impressive. The orange barrel, the "loose" nature of the gun, and the "new" finish. There has been numerous posts in regards to this manner, whether if it's inokatsu's poor quality control, or if it's made to "replicate the gi's old colt feel". Regardless, it feels a little disappointing for a top notch airsoft replica.

 

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That's my initial impressions of the gun!

 

Externals

 

At first, I hated it. I felt like I was ripped off. But a lot has changed since I removed the orange plug that it came with. Then there's the problem of the "loose" nature of the gun. The rear sight is not solid. Disassembling the BBU, I can see that it's being held by a little detent. The only way I can see this rear sight to be solid is if it was glued to the slide. Which makes me question the fact if the REAL M1911A1 had the same hole in the rear sight. Why is this necessary? can't it just be a solid piece? Anyways, that's a minus in my book. The grip safety is also loose. I can move it laterally, which I wish I didn't have that playroom. The slide moves about .01 mm side to side as well too. The trigger is loose as well, but that isn't a huge negative mark for me. And of course, the gun comes to me in a flat black color, similar to their M4 line (2009+). So isn't there anything positive I have to say about this gun?

 

The weight. Wow this feels hefty! The feel of steel, and the way it sounds. Wow. Putting it right next to a KJW, and a KWA M1911A1 replica, you can hear the distinct noise the Inok 1911 makes. Wow. It sure doesn't sound like a toy anymore! Even just locking the slide back, and releasing it feels awesome! The hammer sounds awesome as well too, when you dry fire. And for every potential buyer out there just waiting to do some mods to this gun here's a tip: do not over tighten the rear allen screw. It will cause the BBU to not function properly, and the slide of the steel slamming against steel will be replaced by steel slamming against plastic!

 

And because I DO NOT like the shipped finish (the LUX edition is suppose to have an amazing finish) I decided to purchase a 3000grit sandpaper for automobiles to put some weathering on the finish. The result is astonishing. It matches the period it came from, and it is now a gun with character! And of course, 1,000 slide lock -> releases later, I still enjoy listening to that steel slamming on to steel sound!

 

Operation

 

So I decided to purchase a KJW green gas magazine for the flush bottom. Red Wolf claims this gun will run on green gas during the summer, so I decided to put that to the test. The gun comes with a CO2 magazine (also KJW) and is intended to be used with the CO2 magazine due to the heavy slide and the stiffer springs inside the gun. That would be fine except the KJW CO2 magazines are UGLY. That bumper is just hideous, and you cannot get that image out of your head. What starts to be a gorgeous gun is infinitely ruined by that little "baby bump" of the KJW CO2 Mag.

 

The safety features on this gun is abundant, just like how the original 1911 was intended. With the grip safety, the half cocking mechanism, and the slide safety feature, this gun is really hard to unintentionally shoot somebody. However, some mentioned that if I set the slide safety on, I cannot pull the trigger all the way -- which is the way it should be. As soon as I release the slide safety, the hammer will strike. That's true on mine, and it happens 100% of the time. Is this a design flaw? perhaps. But I don't know in any situation where I will hold the trigger down as I release the slide safety. Not a huge flaw in my eyes, since the situation will not occur with me.

 

The slide lock is a tad shorter than the real M1911A1. I believe the reason for this is so that people don't accidentally bump the reverse side, which will put the slide lock out of alignment, which will cause you to waste an entire CO2 capsule, or a full gas charge. My slide lock has a slight issue: (and it seems to be isolated with me) When I insert the magazine with the slide is forward, the lock will back itself out. If I insert the magazine hard enough, it'll come out quite a bit. Of course, I cannot pull the slide lock out unless the magazine is out. So upon releasing the magazine, I am able to pull the slide lock out directly without aligning to the second indentation for slide lock removal. I've had times where I forgot to check the slide lock and the slide wouldn't blow back because the lock was backed out just a little. This causing all the gas to be released, and thus, I wasted a CO2 canister or a charge of gas.

 

Shooting

 

Actually shooting the gun is in a world of it's own. I don't own many GBB handguns. In fact, I don't own any. 10 years ago, when I was heavily invested into airsoft (Tokyo Marui M4A1 with the brand new EG1000 motor! and the FIRST EVER FULL METAL airsoft gun --MP5 by Classic Army!!) I had a KSC Glock 18C and a KJW USP Tactical. The glock 18C was a blast on FA. KJW was just okay and fun to shoot around every now and then, but for the best experience it was my Glock 18C by KSC. After a couple years I got out of airsoft because AEG's were lame and I didn't skirmish enough for me to keep the hobby going. Plus I was a starving college student and I needed the money. Now that GBBR's are out, experience is everything to me. I don't remember how the Glock 18C felt exactly, but this Inokatsu 1911 is out of this world on the CO2 gas. For some reason (this happened to me twice) the first shot will feel "normal". The shots that followed were amazing. I did expect it. Wow. It shoots hard. REAL hard. It ball parks around 280-290 fps, but it feels like it shoots 1000fps. Though you cannot see it in the video below, you'll just have to trust me :)

 

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This is quite the experience. I'll get about 12-13 rounds before I start loosing a little bit of gas pressure. due to cool down. As shown in the video above, I started off in hot water with the 12g CO2 capsule, and it ended up developing frost around the entire capsule.

 

What I did (and I didn't show in the video) was I overcharged the KJW green gas magazine, thus giving me poor results. I actually charged it for 3 seconds once, and I got off 9 good rounds on Green Gas (of course putting it in warm water first!). But Green Gas will not function this gun properly in a game. I've yet to try yellow gas, but I'll update my review once I've obtained some yellow gas.

 

Conclusion

 

So there you have it. I paid redwolf 825.xx USD after shipping for this gun. Expensive for a toy. Do I feel like it's worth the price? Probably not. It's the same as their M4's. is it worth that much money for a toy? probably not, but if you want the ultimate experience, you gotta pay the admission fee. In return, you get an incredible experience, and a beautiful, collector worthy gun that many people will mistaken for a real one (even after they have handled the weapon!). In the end, I really enjoy the gun. I can say so much to justify my $800+ USD purchase, but I did it. And I don't have my buyer's remorse coming on. At first I did, but the more I messed around with it and made it my own, the more I love it.

 

Pictures

 

Here are a few pictures of the gun. I wish I took more "before" pictures, but this will have to do! Enjoy!

 

BEFORE

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg51/scaled.php?server=51&filename=photozqw.jpg&res=landing

 

AFTER

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http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg135/scaled.php?server=135&filename=photo3px.jpg&res=landing

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg808/scaled.php?server=808&filename=photo2vv.jpg&res=landing

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg822/scaled.php?server=822&filename=photo1ho.jpg&res=landing

 

That's it for now! I would take more pictures, but that's all I have!

Edited by Finbarqs
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Nice, I was really thinking about buying this gun, but I like my 1911's to be as modern as poss. Thanks for the review, its not as good as I thought it would be, cant believe the fit of some of those parts you would expect more from inokatsu but this is there first 1911 so I supose they will improve with newer models. Think Ill bit the bullet and get yet another Nova kit (there new kits for the marui meu are there best ever) available at Elite shooting centre which the owner Mike (nice guy) buys in from Japan (enten.co.jp) and they are a true drop in fit, so a blind monkey could install one plus Mike will build one for you with an aray of custom parts but why bother when half the fun is building it your self!!

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I'd say Inokatsu got the fit between parts just about right. Most standard Colt 1911s I've owned or handled had a fairly loose fit between the slide and the frame. The grip safety is another area where a loose fit was to be expected. 1911s made by other manufacturers usually had even sloppier tolerances. The very first step in turning a 1911 into a competition pistol is tighten the fit between the slide and frame.

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I had a look at an Inokatsu 1911a a few days back, and the frame/slide tolerances where spot on,

Nice and tight, and as good as a well built custom Prime/Nove type kit.

The only thing I did notice was the grip-safety is obviously intentionly loser than normal, not a problem though.

I'd love to see a couple of comparrison shots between the original numbered wooden box version,

which was given a more weathered/worn appearance.

So if anyone has one of the original 100, feel free to post a few pictures ;-)

Cheers.

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I suggest you few setting tip using steel slide with relatively weak TM blowback system.

 

1. Use aluminium or plastic outer barrel

2. weaken hammer spring(tip for using green/yellow gas)

3. Try aluminium breech unit

 

TM/KJ blowback system and magazine structure are not good for running heavy slide.

 

Most KWA NS2 ans WA magna pistols runs steel slide with greengas VERY well.

INO(and RAtech kimber) chosen wrong system i think.

Edited by volante

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The blowback recoil of the gun I believe is the highest I've felt compared to any GBB pistols on the market. But I guess they didn't make this to be a "skirmishable" weapon but more of an experience gun.

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just bought myself a standard 1911 inno from tokyo mdel last week , and i must be one of the unlucky ones as the slide is way loose from side to side and upward not what i expecton a $860 gun the barrel bushing is a poor a loose fit seems to be a common fault but only noticebly when you look closely grip safety side movement excessive i did own adeactivated 1911a1 by remington rand and i can catergorrically say there were no loose parts despite its serial numbers giveing history to pacific use in 1944 so when people say all real ones are like it dont kid yourselfs . for anyone into 45s and want agood read .try the model 1911 and model 1911a1 military and commercial pistols by joe poyer 2nd edition / north cape publications .... a real bible for 45 junkies .. getting back to the slide frame fit i dont think pinching the slide in would be a good idea as the inno slide despite being steel looks to be cast which im sure would crack before bending unlik some real steel slides that have not been heat treated as the later ones were.... so what if some one were to make a replacement insert ie the part that goes into the frame for the slide to run on with slightly more width of metal again in steel that you could finish yourself for ultimate fit would i be the only taker or would it sell

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Hi , what do you mean with your "scare wih the Ratech Kimber? I'm thinking of buying it so please fill in some more info. BTW my ino 1911 has better fit/ lesser play than other AS 1911:s I have tried. ( TM included)

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See my profile status update flow for the discussion which was going on. I will hopefully be making an unboxing and first impressions video this coming weekend as well as showing which parts are steel and which are not, etc.

 

Let's just say that I just spent another 500 USD to get a true "full steel" Kimber, like RA advertises it to be.

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See my profile status update flow for the discussion which was going on. I will hopefully be making an unboxing and first impressions video this coming weekend as well as showing which parts are steel and which are not, etc.

 

Let's just say that I just spent another 500 USD to get a true "full steel" Kimber, like RA advertises it to be.

But INOKATSU said BIGGER lie: 'CNC' steel 1911. which is actually cast made.

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Hi , what do you mean with your "scare wih the Ratech Kimber? I'm thinking of buying it so please fill in some more info. BTW my ino 1911 has better fit/ lesser play than other AS 1911:s I have tried. ( TM included)

 

The Inokatsu that passed my way had very tight tolerences all around, no loose slide - just the grip safety seems to be a tad loose alright.

The Ino and RA Tech are advertised at a similar price point, but the RATech like NonEx said and I stated in a previous post needs a lot of Nova parts to give it the correct profile,

and the cost of these is certainly not cheap.

I I don't think I saw any posts with owners of either of these claiming to be 100% happy, neither of them truely represent the ultimate Airsoft 1911a.

Hopefully the future will have both these products a bit more fine-tuned in the manufacturing process and maybe value wise too.

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I had a ra tech kimber royal 2 and I was not happy with it, the frame and slide were really nice and well finished (nearly as nice as NOVA,PRIME) but the internals were cheap kjw rubbish, the hammer is the wrong shape, the mag release is serated instead of checkered and there are a few other anoying features. Ladys and Gentlemen If you want the perfect airsoft 1911 then buy a NOVA slide and frame, shooters design outer barrel all the external NOVA bits relavent to the gun you want, nova hammer, trigger and strut, a tight bore barrel (6.01 target 6.03 skirmish) stronger recoil spring and a tokyo marui MEU or Night Warrior for the internal parts, pins etc, and a cool grip of your choice and If your able build it yourself if not find a gunsmith to do it for you. Its the only way to do it.

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Ladys and Gentlemen If you want the perfect airsoft 1911 then buy a NOVA slide and frame

 

Thing is the Nova frame or slide are CNC aluminium, while the real steel counterpart is steel, RA-Tech is the only company that produces a blued steel exterior for the gun... Like NonEx I spent a lot more cashish after the initial $850 just to make all the parts steel, also my front sight was horrendously loose, I'm planning to drill a hole on the slide just so that I can tap a grub screw which I then use to secure the front sight (from the inside), anyone else has that problem?

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I know I have contributed, but let's try to keep this thread about the INO or the general idea of a perfect steel pistol. This weekend I will start a thread dedicated for the RA Kimber, and we can continue the discussion about that in there. OK ? :D

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FYI, just got this. If you are considering it, re-consider it. RA Kimber > INO 1911. KWC 1911 > INO 1911 (obviously not in all areas but the KWC impressed me more out of the box than the INO) ... Will sell this shortly, not worth my time.

Edited by NonEx
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FYI, just got this. If you are considering it, re-consider it. RA Kimber > INO 1911. KWC 1911 > INO 1911 (obviously not in all areas but the KWC impressed me more out of the box than the INO) ... Will sell this shortly, not worth my time.

 

That bad eh?

 

Again, age old proof that expensive does not necessarily mean quality.

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Well... no, probably not _that_ bad I think I am being a bit harsh but there were a couple of serious dealbreakers on this piece.

But I do regret getting it and I only held it for 5 minutes. I didn't like the RA Kimber either at first but that was for different reasons.

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