aznsilent Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 (edited) Can't help you on that one, but I ordered from powair6 and was pleased with them, shipped pretty quick too. Thanks. Guess I'll order the electronics first and magazines there. Is the threads on the A&K upper, ptw threads or normal marui threads? Edited February 16, 2015 by aznsilent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DipTwit Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 Pretty sure mine is PTW threading, because I bought a MadBull Daniel Defense rail from eHobby and it fit right on like a glove Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznsilent Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) welp hope the rail i bought fits. have anyone tried those fcc x rampo or earth defense inc magazines? Edited February 20, 2015 by aznsilent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DipTwit Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 You may get lucky either way, some clone PTW owners say the threads can be off a bit and you can squeeze either onto it, I think I've heard others say some rails are off a bit and can be squeezed onto either gun... There's also a thread-fixing tool (from Madbull?) that will, IIRC, shave your AEG threads a bit so a PTW/RS rail will fit. Haven't tried either of those mags, but seen them on some retailer sites. Kinda pricey, so I hope they are decent quality. So far I've never had an issue with my (relatively) cheap A&K metal ones. Just the (even cheaper) plastic Sabre ones gave me some grief. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznsilent Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Yeah, they are. Maybe I'll get one of each and test it. Sucks there's no reviews. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Erka92 Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 My motor pinion gear just got worn down. Nothing left on it. Bevel gear also looks a bit worn. Any suggestions on what to do? Have looked ad a systema pinion and bevel gesr but just read that it wont work. Thanks for the great tips in this thread. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DipTwit Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 (edited) Honestly, after fighting to get a Systema bevel gear to go in my A&K gearbox, I'd probably suggest just replacing with an A&K if you can find one, and putting a new helical pinion gear on the motor. Also make sure the pinion is up high enough, and locked down like crazy so it doesn't slip down toward the motor again - that's what mine did, might be what happened to you. If you insist on using a Systema one, you'll have to get a Systema (or other non-helical) pinion gear too. To get it to go, I had to replace the bearing on the top shell half (if you consider the top to be the one you put on last, the way a gearbox is typically assembled) because the A&K bearing is bigger (3mm x 7mm diameter vs Systema's 2.5mm x 6mm diameter), so fitting the Systema bevel caused everything to bind up when you tried to close the gearbox shell. I used a bearing taken from this gearbox: http://www.powair6.com/en/gearbox-parts/2613-cnc-shells-for-ptw-gearbox.html I also shortened the shaft and bushing around the shaft of the bevel gear, but wound up shimming a lot after that, so not sure if those were actually necessary. Shim carefully so that the bevel doesn't touch the gears above or below it, and make sure there's at least one shim ontop of it, where it goes into that bearing I mentioned above, or else it will jam the whole bearing instead of just spinning the inner part. Close the gearbox carefully, checking that all gears spin freely to know if you've got it right, and finally, make sure when you slide the gearbox into the lower, that the bearing doesn't stick out and scrape the inside of the lower receiver cuz that would bind everything up too. Sorry for the long-winded post, but I spent a whole evening making it work, so wanted you to know what you're up against. I found the shaft of the A&K motor a little shorter than the real thing so I had to set the pinion up a little higher than flush with the top of the shaft. Edited February 23, 2015 by DipTwit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Erka92 Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Thank for the advice! This is really good knowledge. Now I know what I'm up against. SHS has a pinion gear that is a bit helical, I wonder if it Will Work. I Also noticed that SHS has a Complete gear set, with all the gears. For 33$ i Will give it a try. Have any of you guys tested this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DipTwit Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 The SHS one should work, not sure if you need the complete set or not - I would assume their bevel gear will be the same dimensions as the Systema, but you just really can't tell until you test it out. If your existing bevel has some visible marks, but isn't measurably worn down, I'd be tempted to keep it and just replace your pinion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznsilent Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) got my rifle today and i am pretty impressed. really solid. i hope the electronics and the motor won't fail on me. On another note, i was trying to get the flash hider off, what size is the grub screw even? Edited February 25, 2015 by aznsilent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DipTwit Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Seem to recall it being metric, probably try 1.27mm. Mine wasn't hard to get off, don't think I heated it up or anything. Don't forget the flash hider itself (not the grub screw) is *counter-clockwise* threaded, so you turn it *right* to loosen it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznsilent Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 Seem to recall it being metric, probably try 1.27mm. Mine wasn't hard to get off, don't think I heated it up or anything. Don't forget the flash hider itself (not the grub screw) is *counter-clockwise* threaded, so you turn it *right* to loosen it. Had to use those star keys, think my allen keys are all worned out On another note, finally got a battery but the rifle doesn't shoot I don't think it's the battery because it's brand new... I wonder is it the electrics? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DipTwit Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 What kind of battery are you using? Are you using the large Tamaya connectors or did you change that? Also, not sure if you're new to PTWs but the bolt-catch feature means it won't shoot if it thinks you have emptied your mag, so to fire it you need to tap (or if there's no mag in, hold down) the bolt-catch button. Otherwise, the A&K electronics don't seem to have an LED to give you status, so it's tough to diagnose. If you were using the eTiny electronics, the blue light flashes when it's powered up and goes solid when you've hit the bolt-catch button and it's ready to fire. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznsilent Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 What kind of battery are you using? Are you using the large Tamaya connectors or did you change that? Also, not sure if you're new to PTWs but the bolt-catch feature means it won't shoot if it thinks you have emptied your mag, so to fire it you need to tap (or if there's no mag in, hold down) the bolt-catch button. Otherwise, the A&K electronics don't seem to have an LED to give you status, so it's tough to diagnose. If you were using the eTiny electronics, the blue light flashes when it's powered up and goes solid when you've hit the bolt-catch button and it's ready to fire. 11.1 20c 1200mh lipo battery. I have to use an adapter from large to small (I'm thinking it might be the adapter) and yeah i was holding down the bolt catch to shoot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznsilent Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 well i pretty much figured it out. the white connector on the mosfet was broken... once i fixed that, it was screeching like crazy when i fired the first shot.. cylinder went pretty much kaput. oh man what a great way to come back to airsoft :\ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DipTwit Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 If you're comfortable with it, definitely take the cylinder apart and clean and grease it properly. Lots of cylinders come dried out, which won't work at all. You might be fine after that. Did yours come with the red M150 cylinder? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznsilent Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 (edited) If you're comfortable with it, definitely take the cylinder apart and clean and grease it properly. Lots of cylinders come dried out, which won't work at all. You might be fine after that. Did yours come with the red M150 cylinder? nope, gold cylinder. trying to take apart the cylinder, the spring guide is really hard to unscrew but i managed to screw off the cylinder head. Edited February 27, 2015 by aznsilent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DipTwit Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 Lucky, I had to swap springs in mine. You'll want to take both ends off the cylinder, it's a pain to try pushing the piston back in with the spring in place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznsilent Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 Lucky, I had to swap springs in mine. You'll want to take both ends off the cylinder, it's a pain to try pushing the piston back in with the spring in place. well i need to switch springs regardless anyways for indoors...can't seem to get the spring guide out ;; gonna freeze it and try again tomorrow... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DipTwit Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 Freeze it? That's weird, I would think warming it up would make more sense. If you have some sort of tool to grab it by the two holes at the end (hell even needlenose pliers should work) it would be really odd not to be able to unscrew it. Very odd in fact.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznsilent Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 It worked for me for a few things back in the past. I had a upper receiver from king arms which they pretty much super glued the dawn thing. freezing worked. I'll give it try... If I have to guess I'll grab a new cylinder set. I'm suppose to turn counter clockwise to loosen right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DipTwit Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 Yup. No idea why it would be on that tight, never heard of using loctite on a cylinder, especially from the factory. Unless it got cross-threaded when it was assembled and they just cranked it instead of straightening it out and re-screwing. Buying a new cylinder isn't a bad thing, of course, in my case the stock cylinder was made of such soft material that the threads wore out after taking it apart a half dozen times. King Arms ones are decent, PPS are ok, not sure about others. Whatever you get, take it apart and lube the cylinder and all rubber, in case they are dry. And make sure the nozzle slides easily into the hopup chamber. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thatguy404 Posted February 27, 2015 Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 When it comes to cylinders the ptw ones really are far superior Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznsilent Posted February 28, 2015 Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 How about the FCC cylinders? I was going to grab those alpha parts since they don't make a hole in my wallet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KFSP Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 A quick question. Is it possible to fit a SHS cnc gearset in the A&K gearbox, or is it pointless. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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