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PTW clones( DTW A&K etc)


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I'm not going to strip the cylinder and hop yet (later tonight). This is just a quick look at the cylinder, hop and barrel and the externals of the gearbox.   The Cylinder is blue anodised and well

It always amazes me the way people think that because the Systema is $1500 it's actually worth $1500. Do you really think it costs Systema more than a couple of hundred dollars to make? Do you think

ok on with the rest of part 2.   I had a look at the gearbox and electrics today. Some good news and some bad news but to keep you in suspense I'll put the bad news nearer the bottom. No sneak peeki

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You may get lucky either way, some clone PTW owners say the threads can be off a bit and you can squeeze either onto it, I think I've heard others say some rails are off a bit and can be squeezed onto either gun...

 

There's also a thread-fixing tool (from Madbull?) that will, IIRC, shave your AEG threads a bit so a PTW/RS rail will fit.

 

Haven't tried either of those mags, but seen them on some retailer sites. Kinda pricey, so I hope they are decent quality. So far I've never had an issue with my (relatively) cheap A&K metal ones. Just the (even cheaper) plastic Sabre ones gave me some grief.

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Honestly, after fighting to get a Systema bevel gear to go in my A&K gearbox, I'd probably suggest just replacing with an A&K if you can find one, and putting a new helical pinion gear on the motor. Also make sure the pinion is up high enough, and locked down like crazy so it doesn't slip down toward the motor again - that's what mine did, might be what happened to you.

 

If you insist on using a Systema one, you'll have to get a Systema (or other non-helical) pinion gear too. To get it to go, I had to replace the bearing on the top shell half (if you consider the top to be the one you put on last, the way a gearbox is typically assembled) because the A&K bearing is bigger (3mm x 7mm diameter vs Systema's 2.5mm x 6mm diameter), so fitting the Systema bevel caused everything to bind up when you tried to close the gearbox shell. I used a bearing taken from this gearbox:

 

http://www.powair6.com/en/gearbox-parts/2613-cnc-shells-for-ptw-gearbox.html

 

I also shortened the shaft and  bushing around the shaft of the bevel gear, but wound up shimming a lot after that, so not sure if those were actually necessary. Shim carefully so that the bevel doesn't touch the gears above or below it, and make sure there's at least one shim ontop of it, where it goes into that bearing I mentioned above, or else it will jam the whole bearing instead of just spinning the inner part. Close the gearbox carefully, checking that all gears spin freely to know if you've got it right, and finally, make sure when you slide the gearbox into the lower, that the bearing doesn't stick out and scrape the inside of the lower receiver cuz that would bind everything up too.

 

Sorry for the long-winded post, but I spent a whole evening making it work, so wanted you to know what you're up against. I found the shaft of the A&K motor a little shorter than the real thing so I had to set the pinion up a little higher than flush with the top of the shaft.

Edited by DipTwit
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Thank for the advice!

This is really good knowledge.

Now I know what I'm up against.

 

SHS has a pinion gear that is a bit helical, I wonder if it Will Work.

I Also noticed that SHS has a Complete gear set, with all the gears.

For 33$ i Will give it a try.

Have any of you guys tested this?

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The SHS one should work, not sure if you need the complete set or not - I would assume their bevel gear will be the same dimensions as the Systema, but you just really can't tell until you test it out. If your existing bevel has some visible marks, but isn't measurably worn down, I'd be tempted to keep it and just replace your pinion.

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Seem to recall it being metric, probably try 1.27mm. Mine wasn't hard to get off, don't think I heated it up or anything. Don't forget the flash hider itself (not the grub screw) is *counter-clockwise* threaded, so you turn it *right* to loosen it.

 

Had to use those star keys, think my allen keys are all worned out :(

 

On another note, finally got a battery but the rifle doesn't shoot :( I don't think it's the battery because it's brand new... I wonder is it the electrics? 

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What kind of battery are you using? Are you using the large Tamaya connectors or did you change that?

 

Also, not sure if you're new to PTWs but the bolt-catch feature means it won't shoot if it thinks you have emptied your mag, so to fire it you need to tap (or if there's no mag in, hold down) the bolt-catch button.

 

Otherwise, the A&K electronics don't seem to have an LED to give you status, so it's tough to diagnose. If you were using the eTiny electronics, the blue light flashes when it's powered up and goes solid when you've hit the bolt-catch button and it's ready to fire.

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What kind of battery are you using? Are you using the large Tamaya connectors or did you change that?

 

Also, not sure if you're new to PTWs but the bolt-catch feature means it won't shoot if it thinks you have emptied your mag, so to fire it you need to tap (or if there's no mag in, hold down) the bolt-catch button.

 

Otherwise, the A&K electronics don't seem to have an LED to give you status, so it's tough to diagnose. If you were using the eTiny electronics, the blue light flashes when it's powered up and goes solid when you've hit the bolt-catch button and it's ready to fire.

 

11.1 20c 1200mh lipo battery. I have to use an adapter from large to small (I'm thinking it might be the adapter) and yeah i was holding down the bolt catch to shoot.

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If you're comfortable with it, definitely take the cylinder apart and clean and grease it properly. Lots of cylinders come dried out, which won't work at all. You might be fine after that.

 

Did yours come with the red M150 cylinder?

 

nope, gold cylinder. 

 

trying to take apart the cylinder, the spring guide is really hard to unscrew but i managed to screw off the cylinder head.

Edited by aznsilent
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Yup. No idea why it would be on that tight, never heard of using loctite on a cylinder, especially from the factory. Unless it got cross-threaded when it was assembled and they just cranked it instead of straightening it out and re-screwing.

 

Buying a new cylinder isn't a bad thing, of course, in my case the stock cylinder was made of such soft material that the threads wore out after taking it apart a half dozen times. King Arms ones are decent, PPS are ok, not sure about others. Whatever you get, take it apart and lube the cylinder and all rubber, in case they are dry. And make sure the nozzle slides easily into the hopup chamber.

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