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mightyjebus

PTW clones( DTW A&K etc)

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I suspect you'll fit those gears in fine, except the bevel gear, since it'll be the same as the Systema one.

 

However, I have a set of those gears, and I don't think they're any better quality than the A&K ones, to be honest. With a Systema bevel, pinion and motor, my gearbox sounds smooth as butter, just as nice as my real Systema. It just took some work...

Edited by DipTwit

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I put a detailed post a page back in this thread, but the gist of it is that A&K use a thicker bearing on the end(s) of the bevel so the bevel is a little different than Systema.

 

So the Systema bevel sits further down, scraping against the sector gear, and the shaft is too long to close the gearbox without binding.

 

I found a bearing the right size, but still needed to shim both ends to get it perfect.

 

I suppose you could dremel out the cavity in the bevel gear, just remember it still needs to have at least one shim so it only touches the inner circle off the bearing.

 

You might also need to file the shaft a bit shorter, just check if / where it binds when you close the shell.

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Finally got a new cylinder. Everything works great :) but man these motors are pretty hit and miss... one of the screw holes broke cleanly so now i have 3 screws instead of 4 in my grip and the white post thing got bent but the motor still works...

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Be VERY careful with that white post, it's ceramic not plastic so it's probably cracked. I would avoid touching it as once it breaks off it's not simple to replace, you'd have to dig the bottom half of it out if the threaded hole it's in.

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Be VERY careful with that white post, it's ceramic not plastic so it's probably cracked. I would avoid touching it as once it breaks off it's not simple to replace, you'd have to dig the bottom half of it out if the threaded hole it's in.

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Be VERY careful with that white post, it's ceramic not plastic so it's probably cracked. I would avoid touching it as once it breaks off it's not simple to replace, you'd have to dig the bottom half of it out if the threaded hole it's in.

 

Yeah, definitely leaving it alone. 

 

I got a chance to shoot it with bb's and something strange. If i empty my mag, the bolt catch activates but when i take out the mag and insert a fresh loaded mag, i dont need to press the bolt catch. Is that normal? Maybe i'm too use to GBBRs.

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What that means is that it's getting jiggled around in the process, enough to press down on the microswitch at some point.

 

Maybe the bolt catch spring is a little strong- normally that lever is held in a neutral balance between that spring, and the spring of the microswitch.

 

If either is a little stronger then shaking the gun will cause the microswitch to accidentally go up (empty mag detection) or down (bolt catch pressed detection)

 

In fact this does happen normally from time to time; usually it detects empty mag by mistake during a game and you have to tap the bolt catch to keep shooting.

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Not quite sure what you're asking - any setup found to work well in a Systema will also work well in the clones. I have a CQB Orga barrel with Orga flat hop adjuster and love it, very accurate.

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It is already released, my 2014 DTW came with it. It'a a huge , it doesn't hold the same hop position and the adjusting ring is really loose. Apart from this, I am really happy with my DTW.

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It seems to always be a double-edged sword... the clones are trying to add value by including out-of-the-box some the handier 'upgrades' out there (this is a copy of the hopup made by RWA and others) but if they do so at a lower quality level, are they really helping?

 

I'm at the stage where, if someone wanted to buy an A&K to run as a primary, I could help them replace some of the stock parts with ones that will last better, and make a few mods that will avoid the breakdowns I experienced. I appreciate that the A&K allows me to do so, but I appreciate even more the fact that the stock internals are 'pretty good' as an entry-level gun.

 

So it will probably be a never-ending battle to try and get the clones built with enough quality to really compete, even if they are cheaper.

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Not so bad, all the other improvements are fine, the steel buffer tube, the mini mosfet, the burst programable ECU, the magnetic bolt catch... I have used the DTW with all the stock internals except the crappy hop up chamber for 5 months and I am really pleased.

 

The problem with the rotatory hop is that it needs tight manufacturing tolerances, and this means at least using CNC to finish it, but is made by molding. They should know that they can not achieve the needed precision by casting and avoid this design or do it by CNC.

 

I bought mine in AsiaAirsoft.

 

I made a little review in spanish, sorry I don´t have enaught time to translate.

 

 

 

 

 

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My Systema won't swap upper/lower with my A&K, the takedown pins are slightly different size :( but I heard that the latest batch of A&K fixed that, anyone able to confirm it? Also, my Systema was second hand and a challenge kit, so I'm not actually sure if it's a 2007- or 2008+ I just know it has the newer internals. I didn't think Systema changed anything in the fit of receivers during that time, but again someone else might be able to confirm.

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Rainer1989 said he got his DTW from asia airsoft and it already had the new rotatory hop up, so it should be a good bet to ask them. Although being mid 2015 already, maybe it is better to wait to a possible 2016 version since it will probably be easier to spot

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Has anyone had problems with the DTW cylinder head?

 

My nozzle keeps trying to mash the piston head, I think there is too much movement and trying to work out which is too small: the nozzle or the cylinder head.

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Not exactly sure what you're trying to describe here - are you saying the back (inside the cylinder) end of the nozzle is damaging the piston head? I've had this happen with a genuine Systema (although it was a well used one) where it broke off pieces of the lip that holds the small piston head o-ring in place.

 

If you mean the nozzle is jamming in the cylinder head though, from not being kept straight (too much wobble in the nozzle, and won't slide in and out smoothly) then it could be either the nozzle or cylinder head but I would think you could see the physical damage easily if it were on the nozzle.

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Sorry yes, the nozzle does appear to be damaging the piston head where the lip is to hold the o-ring.

 

I've since found the screw on the spring guide shaft (piston head end) was slightly too long and allowed some movement of the head and I've now replaced with a shorter screw.

 

I also replaced the nozzle spring and with a systema spring + o-ring and it stopped feeding. Anyone else had this? It could be down to the spring guide shaft?

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Sounds like there's a few things that could be going wrong... if the new screw you put in has a larger head, or if the damage to the piston head is severe enough, then the piston head might not be gripping the nozzle to pull it back (or not pulling it back all the way) This means the nozzle isn't moving back enough to allow the next bb to load. You should be able to test this by taking out the main spring (from the back so leave the piston / cylinder heads in place) and pull back on the piston, watching how the nozzle moves.

 

Also, after replacing the nozzle spring, make sure the nozzle moves smoothly all the way both in and out. I've seen the end of the spring get wedged into the gap between nozzle and cylinder head and then it doesn't move properly.

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