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PTW clones( DTW A&K etc)


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I've checked there the nozzle is released and it's a decent amount down the cylinder and in slow motion appears to have enough time to load a BB. Looking at the nozzle upside down it doesn't look like it has enough time...

 

There is about 2mm movement of the nozzle tip (hop end) in all directions, does that seem a little excessive?

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I'm not going to strip the cylinder and hop yet (later tonight). This is just a quick look at the cylinder, hop and barrel and the externals of the gearbox.   The Cylinder is blue anodised and well

It always amazes me the way people think that because the Systema is $1500 it's actually worth $1500. Do you really think it costs Systema more than a couple of hundred dollars to make? Do you think

ok on with the rest of part 2.   I had a look at the gearbox and electrics today. Some good news and some bad news but to keep you in suspense I'll put the bad news nearer the bottom. No sneak peeki

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I don't think it sounds excessive, the piston head does a pretty good job of pulling it back straight, and I'm pretty sure mine are similar to that. Does it feed ok if you just hold the gun upside down and drop a single bb in the tube? Not sure if that's a great test, but curious anyway.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I brought an Alpha Part Cylinder as I have a nagging feeling about the DTW cylinder (along with the wrong porting hole) and now the nozzle is too short to create an air seal against the hop. The DTW nozzle is slightly too long and I can feel it pushing back on the spring when it meets the hop...new hop I wonder...

 

Anyone have experience of the RWA CNC hop?

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No, but I did try King Arms and one other brand of Cylinder - might have been alpha but I'd have to check - and I did find there are minute differences in nozzle sizing between brands. The diameter, not the length: in some cases, the 'flare' around the nozzle actually binds going into the hopup. So as opposed to not being long enough, it simply doesn't go all the way in because it's sticking.

 

If you have digital calipers you can sometimes gauge if this is the problem, but otherwise you might have to play with it in your hands to kinda 'feel' if this is happening. If so, you might have to carefully file either the flare around the nozzle, or even the hole in the hopup that it slides into.

 

Hope it helps

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I've just found that the DTW nozzle was starting to work itself loose - it's only a fraction of a mm longer than the DTW one now. I can feel the nozzle being pushed back ever so slightly - not enough if it was fully forward. I assume the nozzle is suppose to help create an air seal like a aeg?

Edited by richwuk
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey.

 

I've been thinking about buying a ptw clone or a tm next gen.

 

I got an offer on a dtw that has full etiny electrics, new hop up and motor that has some parts replaced and cleaned. 

 

If i want to get a G&D Dtw, what parts are needed to be fixed/replaced for it to work good? So far i understood that etiny electrics is a really good upgrade at least. 

 

Is the G&D DTW motor any good? 

Edited by Cire_
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Wonder if anyone can help me with a internal sector gear problem. So i decided to clean out my gearbox and replaced the eletronics with etiny stuff. When i go semi, i see more than three teeths. If i go burst, i see three then when i shoot again, its more than three teeths. Goes all whiny if i shoot. Not sure if its the motor or the positioning of the sector gear.

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My etiny also lets the sector gear spin just a bit longer / further than standard a&k or systema. This is generally fine as there's no anti-reversal latch so the piston spring tension will keep it from happening when the gun's in normal use. As long as you 'back off' the sector gear to it's typical position (using a burst sounds like it works for you) before you close the receiver shut, it should be all clear.

 

Since your is making weird noises, the electronic swap might mean nothing and you should double check the following (no offense meant if these seem idiotic, people really have done them):

 

1) motor got installed / wired backwards - easy to check just make sure the sector gear is spinning the right way

2) sector gear in backwards - also pretty easy to check, cuz all the teeth would be on the wrong side.

3) sector gear shim or bevel gear shims in the wrong place - gears might sound ok spinning free but could scrape when under load.

4) motor pinion gear has slipped down the shaft a bit toward the motor. I had this happen to me, you'll see visible wear on the teeth if you do it enough

 

Only things I can think of that would give you those symptoms, hope that helps!

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Hey.

 

I've been thinking about buying a ptw clone or a tm next gen.

 

I got an offer on a dtw that has full etiny electrics, new hop up and motor that has some parts replaced and cleaned. 

 

If i want to get a G&D Dtw, what parts are needed to be fixed/replaced for it to work good? So far i understood that etiny electrics is a really good upgrade at least. 

 

Is the G&D DTW motor any good? 

 

The first and most important thing is to change the hop up, in both, the A&K or the G&D. My motor in the G&D has failed after 18K BBs, but the electronics are still OK. IMO and experience you just need to change the hop up with a Systema one and then replace any part if needed.

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This seems the best place to ask this but apologies if it is in the wrong section or has already been discussed,

 

When the receivers are split on my DTW, it is cycling the gears 3 times (as per three round burst) on semi auto. When the receivers are closed, it is only cycling once on semi auto as it should do. I have a set of Etiny electrics in it with the fully automatic function set to three round burst.

 

This is the first time i have noticed this, however it could have been doing it previously and i just have not noticed. I don't cycle my gun with the receivers split on a regular basis
 

Does anyone have any idea what the cause of this could be? Im assuming it will be one of the electronic components rather than something mechanical.

Edited by Arbiter
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I just got a G&D DTW (Mk18 Mod 1). It seems to be the latest generation, as it has the RWA hop up design but the buffer tube is not silver color.

 

A couple first impressions:

-It's solid but noticeably lighter than my PTW Mk18 Mod 1 (Mad Bull licensed rail). Most of the difference appears to be the outer barrel/rail

-No wobble in the rail, very solid. More solid than my PTW with Mad Bull rail that I had to shim a bit

-The DTW lower will accept both my 2007 and 2012 PTW uppers but the DTW upper will not go on a PTW lower. I suspect the PTW has thicker body pins. I will caliper later to confirm

-Cylinders are interchangeable with PTW ones with no problems. Haven't disassembled the DTW one but so far good air seal and consistent FPS

-Buffer tube appears AEG spec. My Magpul PTS CTR stock slides on it but I can't get the lock pulled far enough down to actually put it on properly

-Solid sound when firing but I haven't done anything other than chrono. It takes all my mags (Systema, Celcius, Rampo PMAG) and bolt stop works as expected. The mag that comes with it is very light compared to a Systema mag

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  • 7 months later...

I just got a G&D DTW (Mk18 Mod 1). It seems to be the latest generation, as it has the RWA hop up design but the buffer tube is not silver color.

 

A couple first impressions:

-It's solid but noticeably lighter than my PTW Mk18 Mod 1 (Mad Bull licensed rail). Most of the difference appears to be the outer barrel/rail

-No wobble in the rail, very solid. More solid than my PTW with Mad Bull rail that I had to shim a bit

-The DTW lower will accept both my 2007 and 2012 PTW uppers but the DTW upper will not go on a PTW lower. I suspect the PTW has thicker body pins. I will caliper later to confirm

-Cylinders are interchangeable with PTW ones with no problems. Haven't disassembled the DTW one but so far good air seal and consistent FPS

-Buffer tube appears AEG spec. My Magpul PTS CTR stock slides on it but I can't get the lock pulled far enough down to actually put it on properly

-Solid sound when firing but I haven't done anything other than chrono. It takes all my mags (Systema, Celcius, Rampo PMAG) and bolt stop works as expected. The mag that comes with it is very light compared to a Systema mag

 What pushed you towards the dtw instead of the a&K? 

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  • 3 months later...

What pushed you towards the dtw instead of the a&K?

 

To be honest it was that the DTW came in the external configuration I wanted. As it was a backup/loaner gun, I didn't want to fart around with getting a nice rail system on it.

 

For anyone interested, I did caliper the body pins and the DTW ones are about 0.3 mm smaller than the Systema so the DTW lower will take a Systema upper but you cannot put a DTW upper on a Systema lower without boring out the holes on the upper a bit. I have not done this but I'm told it works.

 

Additionally, I had a pinion blow on my PTW and I put the G&D motor and pinion in to replace it and it's performing just fine. RoF is comparable to the stock motor and response is good but not as good as my JG PTW motor.

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  • 3 years later...

Old thread I know but...

 

"For anyone interested, I did caliper the body pins and the DTW ones are about 0.3 mm smaller than the Systema so the DTW lower will take a Systema upper but you cannot put a DTW upper on a Systema lower without boring out the holes on the upper a bit. I have not done this but I'm told it works. "

 

You could always swap out the pins, and put the DTW pins in the PTW lower receiver.

 

 

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