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sacairsoftsn00py

Snoopy's Initial Impressions on the Tokyo Marui MP7A1 GBB

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Sorry I didn't mean misfeeding, it was the bb follower in the mag getting stuck and not feeding the bbs up. I've cleaned them once already, and after some more use it's really dirty again. 

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My fault - understood what you meant, just wanted to add that it has not personally happened me. How many mags do you have? I have six, so remember that as far as I am concerned wear and tear is more distributed.

 

The fact that the BB's are visible the whole way down, as well as the mag channel being quite wide it does give ample room for dirt and grit to get in there. I would have preferred a more enclosed channel

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3vil-D4n happened to be in town and managed to meet up with me + looked at the MP7 and tested out his hypothesis.

 

If I remember correctly, his assessment is as follow: on a stock TM nozzle, it would appear that the bolt never closes completely... because the loading nozzle is actually a bit longer than it should. What this means is that every time the bolt returns, the loading nozzle pretty much absorbs the impact on contact with the barrel extension.

 

The way to alleviate this is to shorten (via a dremel with a grinder)

- the end of the loading nozzle (Mgg1-89)

- the inner plastic piece, on the side facing the piston (Mgg1-92) (this is the part that the piston immediately contact/impact upon when the bolt return to the default position)

- the front moving part (Mgg1-87)

 

- Or cut out the o-ring (Mgg1-98) - but the o-ring is there to buffer against something, so not sure what cutting the o-ring will do.

 

Will report in if my nozzle still fails after having the above mod.

 

 

It might also be pos

Edited by Amoki

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Its easier to just buy a reinforced nozzle. Theres no dremelling the nozzle as the tail end of the nozzle houses the step that the return spring sits on. You may however cut the o-ring if you want. Its not advisable for when it fails...you need am o-ring AND you may need a new nozzle anyway.

 

Get that creation nozzle and roll with it if your stock nozzle fails.

 

Modified my valve striker....full auto went to pot...reduced the recoil...semi auto functions flawlessly...nozzle still alive after about 5k rounds.

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

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Head out to walmart and get yourself a can of "crc electronic parts cleaner"...plastics are safe with it. :) yup...spray it down :) Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk 2

 

Thanks snoopy, I'll give this a shot.

 

 

I ordered one, so I'll let you guys know how well it works. 

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I managed to have a decent go with one yesterday. While I was quite impressed by the range and accuracy, the recoil felt 'delayed' and unusual to me anyway, ROF was slow and the trigger didnt feel too solid.

 

The rails, selectors, sights etc... seemed very poorly done in comparison to the KWA. Looked cast then cheaply painted, rough edges and paint flaking off - wasnt impressed.

 

Also if the body work is anything like the material they used on their G36 EBB then it will turn very shinny and look terrible.

 

Magazines thought better design than the TM with the plastic lip, possibly more prone to damage but did tend to feed better.

 

 

Overall personally not impressed, TM could have spent more time on it using a few better materials. Ill be sticking with my KWA.

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I'll be providing photos of my gun used gun a little bit later :P

 

Not quite sure what you mean by the trigger not feeling solid. Are you talking about the trigger pull? The pull is smooth...it doesn't have that obvious break for when it releases the sear but the break is there. The feel is probably more similar to an AEG due to it being smooth.

 

I'd have to agree with the cast marks on the plastic. They are more prominent. Paint flaking off?

 

ROF being slow....I believe they were 14-15 RPS vs. KWA MP7's being around 18 RPS. The TM MP7's bolt is significantly heavier....which will make the gun shoot slower ROF wise but the felt recoil on it is much harder than the KWA MP7. A stiffer recoil spring should increase the ROF some...Currently Hephaestus has one in the market.

 

Rails, selector, and sights...I'll have pictures of my used TM MP7 rails...selector...and sights. 

 

Anything plastic can be  made to shine after rubbing it. Heck, the KWA KRISS and MP7's are on the shiny start to begin with....those will probably get shinier quicker.

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Not sure, the trigger just didnt seem to be as nice as on a KWA. Paint was flaking off the rails, not scratched off, actually flaking.

 

I know the TMs bolt is much larger and heavier which does account for the lower ROF

 

My KWA is about a year old and used as a primary, not gone shiny, nice and dull looks good. I only mentioned it, due after having a TM G36 EBB which was supposedly made of the same plastic, few months in became very very shiny, looked like a $50 springer in external quality. The rails and sights seemed like poorly cast pot metal, rough sharp edges and the like.

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The finish on the rails isn't paint. That's weird...I hear you about the seams. They are obvious. Still, the gun is solid. Here's a few photos of my used TM MP7 GBB. Gun was used almost exclusively for CQB games. I've had it since early November after it was released on October 29th, 2012. Id say that it has about 7000 rounds through it between me and the people who have borrowed it from me at the games.

 

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Edited by sacairsoftsn00py

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Recently picked up my MP7 and it's a lovely piece of kit (although will be getting a reinforced nozzle to keep on the safe side). It's already done a few hundred rounds with no issues at all.

 

Couple of questions for you lovely people though:

 

- What are you using to sling your MP7 - the holes on the body aren't large enough to take the usual type that I have and someone was saying to me that the holes in the bodywork may not be strong enough to sling the gun by. (May be BS, but wanted to check)

 

- Can someone please take a picture of the hop unit and trigger when the hop adjuster is exposed? The manual shows that most of the wheel is visible, but when I lift the trigger, it only exposes a few mm before it feels like it's being forced. Just wanted to see if I'm doing it wrong, or if the manual is slightly off.

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All sorted now. Oddly however, I can't seem to do it when the charging handle is pulled back. Hopefully I should be able to take this out into woodland once I sort out some sort of sling.

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For the time being I took a keyring, just the round part and put it through one of the holes for the sling and attach a normal sling to that

 

I'm taking mine for its first outdoors trip this Sunday , so will see how it goes

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