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sacairsoftsn00py

Snoopy's Initial Impressions on the Tokyo Marui MP7A1 GBB

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Been a while since I took one of mine apart. It was fairly easy to take apart and put back. No real tricky thing that gave me trouble. You just gotta remember the orientation of the springs and parts really.

 

You need to take out the selector lever and bolt catch as well as the trigger to pull out the inner metal casing that houses the trigger/hammer components which the hop/inner barrel assembly attaches to.

 

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I decided to man up after writing the post and took the thing apart. I can't delete my old post unfortunately, tried a bunch of times but the forum wouldn't let me.

 

I did have one odd experience. After taking everything apart slowly and carefully out of nowhere a small red o-ring came out of nowhere. It's slight wider than the diameter of the inner barrel. Anyone have an idea where it goes?

 

Oh, rapid mag cool down. Anyone else have that issue? I've tried Green, propane, and HFC 134 and all produce major cooldown. I'm lucky if I can dump a full mag in full auto, Rapid fire semi causes the same problem.

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Made a little video. Mag dumping the hell out off this thing :P

Stock nozzle holding up, using Ultrair gas. Also installed a stronger recoil spring.

Got over two whole mags off on one gas fill. Pretty good:)

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No cool down issue with mine...its pretty efficient. Perhaps your can of gas is low?

 

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I wouldnt say it has a cooldown issue?

 

In the video the same magazine was used all 3 times while shooting it;)

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I wouldnt say it has a cooldown issue?

 

In the video the same magazine was used all 3 times while shooting it;)

Im pretty sure he is referring to lacanuck24's post. I have used mine in +1 Celsius and had no problem with it at all(full auto was slower, but then again I don't use full in skirmishes). Also Im still using the default nozzle.

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Im pretty sure he is referring to lacanuck24's post. I have used mine in +1 Celsius and had no problem with it at all(full auto was slower, but then again I don't use full in skirmishes). Also Im still using the default nozzle.

Ofcourse! Youre right:)

Edited by steinarsen44

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No issues with my gun, just had to go buy some lower power gas to keep it under 1 joule, got the abbey 144a to try, also picked up 6 extra mags to use it as a primary outdoors

 

Only problem I have is with one of my mags, its leaking from the bottom, between the body of the mag and the base plate, I've tried everything, even a new o ring and I tried loctite liquid gasket but that didn't hold, anyone have any other suggestions? I think it may have been dropped while letting someone else game with it

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Ive posted about leaky mags. Ive had em happen to all my magazines. I resealed em using silicone grease so it doesnt blow out. Do mind the orientation of the pins when taking em out as one end of the pins is textured to keep em from popping out.

 

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Thanks for the input. I definitely need to do more testing with new cans of gas. My hfc134 is new though and has super cooled my mag. Months ago when I first got the gun green gas was dumping full mags no problem.

 

Has anyone tried the Angrygun power up suppressor? Curious as to whether its going to be worth it.

 

And lastly, the o-ring in the photo. Disassembled to install a new hop rubber and barrel. Couldn't figure out where this oring goes. Any help? Instruction manual wasn't as useful this time. Thanks!

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Any suggestions/advice would be greatly appreciated. 

 

I'm still having ridiculous cool down issues with my mags. I started with a brand new can of Guarder green gas, my gun has a simple upgrade of a Firefly hop up bucking and PDI barrel. Temperature was in the 30 degree centigrade range with bad humidity. I tried a full auto mag dump and was able to get all the rounds off but the last 10-15 rounds were no where near 300fps. Played games shooting just semi, decent rate of fire, maybe a 1-1.5 RPS when I needed to. Shooting semi I would get cool down also, couldn't even get through entire mags sometimes. I had the same issue with all six of my mags, some I could barely get of every round, others froze up all over the place

 

Hoarding AEG's this is my first GBB bigger than a 1911. So, any advice would be greatly appreciated. New valve? Just suck it up and deal with a lot of pistol transitions? (that part was actually a ton of fun) Humidity play a factor?

 

I had an insanely good time with the gun when it wasn't on ice. Makes me want to begin a GBB rifle collection! Fantastic gun, except for my seemingly isolated issues

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Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

 

Yeap. Air horn canister uses 134a. Just used the adapter off of an old green gas can and it works. Down side is....cost.

 

Hey, it will keep your gun from breaking right? Haha!

 

Tested the gas on my TM G17 with a Trigger Happpy Metal Slide. That shot around 230-240 fps with .20g bbs at about 75 degrees. Typical for a marui pistol.

 

Ill post chrono values from my TM MP7 when I get the chance.

 

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hmmm, having some trouble with my MP7 now, the bolt lock wont work. If the mag is empty and i pull the charging handle, it locks  back. But if i fill it up with BBs it will still fire even though there are no BBs left...

EDIT:

FIXED. Classic over greasing:P 
This thing really doesnt need much grease. Other GBBs ive owned have gone through grease like i do water, atleast compared to this one:)

Edited by steinarsen44

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Odd. So while the tetrafluoroethane/134a air horn canister was doing 260-270 fps...my 3M duster gas canister with difluoroethane/152a was putting out fps in the high 280's to mid 290's with .20g bbs.

 

Duster gas goes for $5....air horn canister goes for $15. Another difference is that the duster gas has that bitterant additive which makes the gas stinky.

 

I like the air horn gas/134a. Doesn't stink...lower power doesn't mean less range. The gun shoots plenty far...thanks to the marui hop. One can is good for 7-8 mag full of gas. Haven't tested the efficiency but on semi auto...im able to shoot at least 100 rounds per fill....per mag. So thats 700-800 rounds at least for every $15 can....decreased wear and tear to boot :)

 

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That is strange that the 152a is outperforming the 134a...I am looking for a vapor pressure chart right now on google but I could have sworn that the 152a has a significantly lower vapor pressure at game temperatures.

 

I don't want to derail things -- would like to talk about gas, price and availability, may need to start a thread...

 

This thread along with the new 870 shotgun makes me want some Japanese GBB's again.  I sold my Western Arms guns around 2005 and haven't looked locally for 134a since then, and a lot of things have changed in the interval (not for the better).  I actually went to Walmart two weeks ago and scoured the aisles (electronics, automotive, crafts) looking for 134a and I am impressed that you discovered some (I couldn't).  I am trying to find the cheapest bulk source of (relatively) odorless gas for indoor shooting fun.

 

Problems I have discovered since the last time I looked for 134a:

1) Bitterant.  I can't believe someone would huff this stuff.  A few idiots have ruined it for everyone.  I haven't actually smelled any to determine if it is so rank that it prevents indoor shooting (like the mercaptans in propane)

2) All consumer grade duster seems to be 152a - which last time I tried, didn't cycle pistols very well due to decreased vapor pressure (again still looking for a chart).  134a is apparently more expensive to manufacture, and is on the "endangered species list" per Kyoto protocol, etc.   While "ozne safe" and not ozone depleting, it has a terrible global warming potential (GWP 3830 times worse than same mass of CO2).  The only thing 134a has going for it is that it is nonflammable compared to 152a and so is still needed in industrial applications.

 

The best I could do on 134a is to mail order some - example:  company Endust manufactures "nonflammable duster" (134a) in 10 ounce can for ~$9 a can ($18 for two-pack, and ship to store).  Nonflammable application apparently still meant for end consumer as they put the bitterant in.

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Had a read through the whole thread. Pretty good stuff to know, all in all.

 

I've been seeing a lot more aftermarket loading nozzles recently on all the major shops in Asia and locally, beyond the usual Azimuth ones. Any other impressions regarding their durability and performance?

 

Also, how well do the original TM parts "mesh" with the aftermarket nozzles?

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I havent used mine much as of late. Ive got a couple of stock tm nozzles on hand. Right now I have a ready fighter nozzle installed in my tm mp7. Personally, ive come to like these better than azimuth in terms of fit. They were initially on the tighter side out of the package but have since broken in for a perfect fit.

 

Azimuth nozzles work. They just feel on the looser side of things. Not sure who else has broken em. Ive broken one. My old mp7 has the other azimuth nozzle in it. As far as I know...its still alive. Not being used much...but its not broken.

 

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I'm still running my stock nozzle, though I have a Ready Fighter one waiting in case of a kaboom. Round count in the multiple bags of 0.25gs now.

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It would seem that buying a spare nozzle would be the best course of action, as I usually run propane. I probably won't even need it given England's lovely (HA!) weather.

I saw some references earlier in the thread that the aftermarket nozzles increase the FPS somewhat -  is this a significant increase when installed in a model without any mods?

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Increasing the flute valve spring only affects power up to a certain point, (and it depends on the barrel length and magazine design), then it actually decreases power.  And the stronger the flute valve spring the more gas hungry the gun becomes.

 

Like the ported cylinders on AEGs, there is only so much gas that can be used to accelerate the BB through a barrel.  A strong flute valve spring opens the gas route to the breech for longer but when the BB has left the barrel, an overly strong spring leads to more gas being expended without being used on accelerating the BB out of the barrel.  If the barrel is longer then the advantage may be there but it doesn't work well on a short barrel.

 

So it is nearly ALWAYS better to have a light spring than a heavy spring,  the FPS drop is 10-20fps at most, and gas efficiency is most often improved.

 

In regards to the springs which comes with the nozzles, I have noticed that certain nozzles (not just on Marui MP7s) do give more FPS increase even on the original spring set, so the hypothesis may not be totally correct.  It could be a larger bore, better seal, or a different shaped flute valve which contribute to a better FPS, but who really knows :P

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Selling mine.. Its let me down too many times.

Oh? Sorry to hear that. Im either lucky or people here just got theirs from bad batches. Mine is still fully stock(yes even the bolt), and I even skirmished it in 30 Celsius, and Im using green gas. Only problem I could think of is that sometimes after a reload the bolt releases on its own but doesn't cock the gun.

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