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The black one is higher in serial number than the tan, but I guess they may be running on seperate production lines or something.

 

The tan one also has a painted inner outer barrel, ie. the threads.

 

The black one is WET02207 and the tan one is WET00795.

 

Not sure if they are in order or not, but considering the black one came out slightly before the tan it would make sense that the tan one is produced later.

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Front sight dovetail cut on slide is too wide and front sight has a pin that goes through slide.     Rear sight (left) has channel for blowback unit while RS sight (right) does not. Rear sight al

I took a little time to recontour and stipple my HK3P M&P more like my real M&Ps. I decided to go with a combination between how Boresight Solutions and ATEiGuns do their frames. The one thing

Hi there,  The issues with the WE M&Ps has been resolved for a couple of years now, it initially took them quite some time to sort that one out - very disappointing at the time though !   The

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So, remove the aircraft from inside the pistol, take the thing that's not a card from inside the aircraft, cut the thing to the appropiate size and put a hole in it and lastly slide a seat pat on top of the aircraft and fix it in place with some loctite.

 

Oh yeah! why didn't I think of that? Brilliant.

 

In all seriousness the correct fix for the burst issue is already on page 1. Anyways NonEx, did you check the nozzle for cracks or problems? the 1/2 mag thing has me surprised :S

Edited by kenxin
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So, remove the aircraft from inside the pistol, take the thing that's not a card from inside the aircraft, cut the thing to the appropiate size and put a hole in it and lastly slide a seat pat on top of the aircraft and fix it in place with some loctite.

 

Oh yeah! why didn't I think of that? Brilliant.

 

In all seriousness the correct fix for the burst issue is already on page 1. Anyways NonEx, did you check the nozzle for cracks or problems? the 1/2 mag thing has me surprised :S

There is a couple of problems causing this, and the early mentioned WE fix does not solve most peoples problems,

a lot of problems are being caused by the hammer not resetting properly due to the ramp above the blowback cylinder not making proper contact.

Mine was a later number and had the problem, so don't take it for granted over serials.

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So, remove the aircraft from inside the pistol, take the thing that's not a card from inside the aircraft, cut the thing to the appropiate size and put a hole in it and lastly slide a seat pat on top of the aircraft and fix it in place with some loctite.

 

Oh yeah! why didn't I think of that? Brilliant.

 

In all seriousness the correct fix for the burst issue is already on page 1. Anyways NonEx, did you check the nozzle for cracks or problems? the 1/2 mag thing has me surprised :S

 

HILARIOUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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There is a couple of problems causing this, and the early mentioned WE fix does not solve most peoples problems,

a lot of problems are being caused by the hammer not resetting properly due to the ramp above the blowback cylinder not making proper contact.

Mine was a later number and had the problem, so don't take it for granted over serials.

The way it's designed, it's 100% impossible for the BBU ramp to not contact the roller.

 

Now if the ramp was badly casted or i worn out it may not push the hammer down enough. If this is the case the only solution is installing some sort of insert or get a replacement bbu.

 

Or if you can post pictures! this is a review thread after all.

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Kenxin, I stated that the ramp wasn't making proper contact, you are implying I said making no contact at all ?

Which I'm sure WE didn't design the gun to do.

Its a combination of hammer needing to be pushed a bit further than normal with play on the roller,

some people I've spoken to had to put an epoxy compound with a small piece of card/credit-card type plastic on the ramp

to ensure full contact.

 

Here is a shot that shows the area  :

 

img013uf_zps3def42f2.jpg

 

Photo courtesy of Probotector.

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What I tried to say is that the roller can't miss that part....I can't picture how it can make an improper contact since the roller can't really move from the spot.

 

On the other hand, yeah I was referring to exactly this, if the bbu is not pushing the hammer down enough.

 

And yeah, some insert as in epoxy or a piece of plastic glued.

 

Good to know if those do make it to spain...some day.

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Not sure about the question of 1/2 of a magazine? Maybe I wrote it wrong or you read it wrong, it's 1 and 1/2 magazine, one and a half. :)

 

As for the airplane in the seat of the gun. Well, basically it sais to cut out some cardboard and place inside the slide above the BBU to lower it slightly down towards the frame internals.

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Not sure about the question of 1/2 of a magazine? Maybe I wrote it wrong or you read it wrong, it's 1 and 1/2 magazine, one and a half. :)

 

As for the airplane in the seat of the gun. Well, basically it sais to cut out some cardboard and place inside the slide above the BBU to lower it slightly down towards the frame internals.

Sorry, missread the mag thing.

 

what are your overall impressions so far?

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Are you sure thats the reason its running away in auto? in both of my XDMs, the trigger pull was really short originally, and when it was running away it was cause the sear was slipping off the hammer, because to get the short trigger pulls they make the contact areas too small, whats the M&Ps hammer group look like?

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Impressions are, looks and feels good in the hand, feels great to shoot but disappointed with the accuracy on mine compared to what was shown online prior to release. And the hop issue is just a a pain, and that the barrel cut and hop housing is modified VSR. But overall I like them. Fit and finish are great actually Shame about no trades no HK3 versions... Most likely end up snatching a VFC full size when they come out just because of the markings. Stiff recoil spring = me gusta! Real snappy. It just feels very solid and tight overall.

Burst issue is annoying but not that bad due to the relative easy fix.

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I just got mine last week. It definitely looks and feels good. The action is nice and snappy and is one of my favorite pistols to shoot. Accuracy is horrible even at 5M. I tested it with stock bucking, barrel, propane, and bioshot .30g and got 2" (5cm) groupings. Chrono gave me fairly steady 315 fps with .20g.

 

The hop up wheel worked fine. I'm going to test to see if it works with the nineball gas route seals for a 226. And maybe throw in a nineball bucking or a maple leaf, as i haven't decided yet. The barrel definately needs replacing.

 

The lack of aftermarket parts isn't a big con for me, as i know i can get replacement parts from WE here in the states. Another huge positive is the ability to attach actual magpul speed plates, takes a bit of moding but they fit.

 

All in all a great pistol, only time will tell if there are any durability issues. I purchased mine at ASGI for only $95. I'm not disappointed with my purchase at that price. I know the VFC one is coming out but if i can get work done with the WE I rather spend the money on something else.

 

Heres a picture of the new WE M&P added to the family.

 

 

My Family

 

 

 

Edited by alex chang
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One of my local retailers just started carrying the M&P. Would you guys suggest getting one now or perhaps wait to see if WE might address QC issues later down the line (if they even will do that)?

 

It seems like they've addressed some QC issues since i was able to adjust my hop up wheel with no problems. I have to admit i was not a big fan of WE before, but after handling some of their newer models i'm impressed. I've had my share of pistols, TMs, KJWs, KSC, and KWAs, but for 95 bucks i thought it was a good buy.

Edited by alex chang
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Here's a pic of the filled in plate. Unfortunatly it looks like *suitcase* in harsh light conditions as you see all the little pen details etc. And it's too glossy compared to the RS matte finish. But in ambient diffuse light it looks alright actually;

 

sw_plate.JPG

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Question of Innovatiors.

Anyway to attach an RMR reddot to my M&P, in front of the rear sight? I was thinking about taking the railmount off the sight and using velcro to attach it.

I have seen RS M&P milled out for an RMR, but im looking for a cheap way.

And no rail sections that attach to the bottom rail and bring it over the slide!

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Velcro? I don't think that'd be a good idea for keeping an optic taught... all that really comes to mind is having a mount base milled (which as you said, would probably be expensive), tapping the slide (far less expensive but needs technical expertise- don't even think it can be done with the BBU the way it is), or making a mount and then Superglue.

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Velcro won't hold with the recoil. Your only chances are:

 

- Make a mount to replace the rear sight (like some of the currently availiable glock  mounts).

- Drill  some threads on the slide and BBU  to attach it there (I don't think it'll hold and I don't know if the BBU has enough material in it for that but...)

 

So far I've only seen 1 airsoft gun with the setup you want, and it was a japanese gun (so, less powerful gas).

 

Also, just in case you succeded (somehow), you'll be adding quite a bit of weight to the slide, so your gas efficiency will take a hit.

 

In short, no you don't.

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