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I got mine from Landwarrior Airsoft, before i took it home they fixed the hop issue for me and they do this to all of the M&P's they sell.

 

I got it before Christmas and have put about 800rds through it without any issues such as burst fire. It's only been out to one skirmish and works fine with 0.25's, gets the same range i got from my TM226, i tried .28's but i wasn't getting the range i was wanting but it was a cold day and i didn't have the time/patiance to fiddle about with it.

 

Do you know what modifications the shop did to the hop up unit?

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I've been testing then fiddling with the gun this morning.

 

The hop was unresponsive, so I opened the chamber and tried to make the wheel turn. There's an indent in the minimum setting that is so deep it'll get stuck with the portrusion pictured in the previous page.

I don't understand what function it does, as the end of the wheel's spiral for the hop settings will stop the movement anyway...

The design would benefit greatly from a better designed wheel that runs on shims instead of against the chamber.

 

The stock rubber is good enough, and as it was said already, it's an A+ style rubber. I tried a Nineball purple unit and it worked nicely too, but went back to the original rubber.

 

In order to get enough hop for 0.25s I had to bend inwards both ends of the metal link. The A+ style rubber will stop 0.20s if there's too much hop and the effects is similar to not having hop enough. If you shoot 0.25s (with a very hopped setting) they'll go fine even when 0.20s drop short.

I ended up leaving the hop set for 0.25s and not bother about the wheel at all. After two full magazines the setting stayed put, so it's allright. Once set you can get a nice flat trajectory with the stock rubber and -cleaned throughly - barrel.

 

M%2526P1.jpg

M%2526P2.jpg

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Wingman I think you have the protective plastic left on your serial number plate.

 

And as for me, well I decided to print my own manuals today :D

 

ppc_s%2526w_m%2526p_manual.jpg


WE M&P black, proper Code 39 barcode.
ppc_s%2526w_m%2526p_sticker_bk_proper_co


WE M&P black, box contents.
ppc_s%2526w_m%2526p_sticker_bk_contents.


WE M&P black, envelope, matching serials.
ppc_s%2526w_m%2526p_sticker_bk_envelope_


WE M&P FDE, proper Code 39 barcode.
ppc_s%2526w_m%2526p_sticker_bk_proper_up


WE M&P FDE, box contents.
ppc_s%2526w_m%2526p_sticker_fde_contents


WE M&P FDE, envelope, matching serials.
ppc_s%2526w_m%2526p_sticker_fde_envelope

 

 

Friggen nice I tell you :D

 

Adds a whole nother dimension to this 100 USD pistol. :o

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Wingman I think you have the protective plastic left on your serial number plate. :o

I know :D I tend to leave them there for a little while and when they start to get ugly, I take them off :P

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Wingmann, this is with the stock barrel? Isn't the hop up window to narrow to work for Marui type hop up bucking? I've fit tested it and noticed very little adjustment, but never bothered to try shooting it.

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Wingman, did you create all that from scratch?  Or did you somehow have the real steel to pull parts of it from?  If you created all that from scratch you have the makings of being a master forger. 

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I'm not sure if you are refering to his traded M&P or if you confused it with my WE M&P "RS Pistol Case" post, which makes more sense given your comment.

 

If mine, then yes I did make those from scratch basically.

 

See more info here : http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/206829-project-”perfect-pistol-case”-rs-replicas/

 

It kind of has me wanting to try and replicate other, more significant stuff, if you know what I mean :D

Just to see if it can be done, hehe.

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Wingmann, this is with the stock barrel? Isn't the hop up window to narrow to work for Marui type hop up bucking? I've fit tested it and noticed very little adjustment, but never bothered to try shooting it.

Yes, I'm using the stock barrel (I never change barrels in pistols). The bucking works as expected, and although I left the hop up fixed for 0.25s I don't see why a working one shouldn't move and adjust properly.

 

And yes, the forger is Mr. NonEx, not me :P

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I'm not sure if you are refering to his traded M&P or if you confused it with my WE M&P "RS Pistol Case" post, which makes more sense given your comment.

 

If mine, then yes I did make those from scratch basically.

 

See more info here : http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/206829-project-”perfect-pistol-case”-rs-replicas/

 

It kind of has me wanting to try and replicate other, more significant stuff, if you know what I mean :D

Just to see if it can be done, hehe.

 Yes it was yours, my apologies for the confusion.  Wow you did a great job!  I will make sure I double check any documents I get from Sweden LOL! :D 

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Bought this the other day. Pretty great finish, very comfortable, decent kick, and decent efficiency. 

 

Only issue is the random bouts of 2 round burst and full-auto. Going to return it next weekend.

 

It was fun WE-tech, maybe I'll see you another time.

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After fixing the stupid problem with the internal hammer cocking, the gun runs fine.

The burst fire issue didn't happen to me and the internals still look good after using the GBB quite extensively.

I've replaced the recoil spring with a stronger one (Action M1911), very crisp recoil. The slide and hop up seem to be fine with the stronger spring installed.

 

The only big con of the M&P, not counting in the casting issues with the hop-up and (in my case) the ramp on the loading nozzle frame, is the big cooldown of the mags.

But that was to be expected.

 

Overall I'm really happy with that GBB. I guess WE really stepped up their game.

Edited by Probotector

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Not sure why you felt a need for a stronger recoil spring considering the one in there is pretty strong already. May very well be why you experience the cool down you speak of.

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Not sure why you felt a need for a stronger recoil spring considering the one in there is pretty strong already. May very well be why you experience the cool down you speak of.

 

1.) Because I can. ;)

2.) The amount of cooldown did not change with the different spring.

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Very well.

 

Then maybe I will go ahead and install that spring as well. The stuffer the better :)

 

Was it a 150% spring for TM 1911, or regular ?

Edited by NonEx

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How much stiffer would you say that is compared to the stock spring ? :o

Difficult to explain. :P

There is quite some force when the slide slams forward but not so strong that it would damage the slide. Also when pressing the slide catch down, the slide closes fast even when your finger accidently pushes at the slide on the frame (which it doesn't with the stock spring)

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The only big con of the M&P, not counting in the casting issues with the hop-up and (in my case) the ramp on the loading nozzle frame, is the big cooldown of the mags.

But that was to be expected.

 

Really? I was using it outside in the snow last weekend and i was getting almost a fuull mag. It was doing better than most other pistols out that day. IMO i get less cool down with the M&P than i do on my 1911, 226 (both tm) and kwa USP.

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Really? I was using it outside in the snow last weekend and i was getting almost a fuull mag. It was doing better than most other pistols out that day. IMO i get less cool down with the M&P than i do on my 1911, 226 (both tm) and kwa USP.

 

Yes, but i dare say it's colder in Austria at the moment than here as in this part of the west mids it's not dropped much below -3C

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I shot mine indoors a while back and I also thought it had good gas efficiency actually.

 

Agreed. I have done several sub-5C mag dumps with it over the last month or so and it has always had gas left

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Sorry, "big" was stretching it a bit too much. One gas charge is enough for atleast 1 and 1/2 mags. (home temperature).

I still have to test it outside.

Edited by Probotector

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