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Another Question.

 

Aftermarket sights.

 

Do real ones fit? I know there are no replica aftermarket sights yet. Thought I should ask.

 

For the rear, you would have to mill/grind out a channel for the blowback unit, fix a threaded post (like the stock WE rear sight) and cut the dovetail so the rear sight would drop into place instead of slide in (because of the threaded post needed to fix the blowback unit in place).

 

I haven't looked into the front yet. If interested, I can provide pics to show the differences.

Edited by WTF?Shane

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Front sight dovetail cut on slide is too wide and front sight has a pin that goes through slide.

 

8626615848_8051f41ddf_n.jpg

 

Rear sight (left) has channel for blowback unit while RS sight (right) does not. Rear sight also has threaded post for screw that secures sight and blowback unit to slide.

 

8626617302_c045934f70_n.jpg

 

8626617682_cc13330aa9_n.jpg

 

8625509195_998c6196df_n.jpg

 

Blowback unit in slide.

 

8626616848_753e15263d_n.jpg

 

Hole in slide that screw goes through that attaches rear sight and blowback unit to slide.

 

8625507545_679305fda4_n.jpg

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Aaah, Aluminum. I might have to try that one out. :o (assuming the production version will have trades...)

Too bad there are no Guarder full marking frames available :(

Edited by NonEx

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So I was suposed to make a review video of my WE M&Ps yesterday. Took em out only to find none of them function properly.

 

The black one has the burst fire issue, known fix.

 

However my tan one does something completely different.

 

Gas up the magazine, insert magazine, rack slide, pull trigger. Pistol fires, blows back, goes back into battery and the valve knocker jams up against the magazine valve and I have to forcefully remove the magazine (leaks some gas when removed).

The hammer is not cocked after that.

Have to insert magazine, rack the slide again, fires again and then same as above.

This works for 3-4 shots then the magazine is empty or just dumps the gas.

 

Any ideas ? :o

Edited by NonEx
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So I was suposed to make a review video of my WE M&Ps yesterday. Took em out only to find none of them function properly.

 

The black one has the burst fire issue, known fix.

 

However my tan one does something completely different.

 

Gas up the magazine, insert magazine, rack slide, pull trigger. Pistol fires, blows back, goes back into battery and the valve knocker jams up against the magazine valve and I have to forcefully remove the magazine (leaks some gas when removed).

The hammer is not cocked after that.

Have to insert magazine, rack the slide again, fires again and then same as above.

This works for 3-4 shots then the magazine is empty or just dumps the gas.

 

Any ideas ? :o

Amazing quality by WE :P

 

My best guess would be the valve knocker or the spring that resets it being bent/broken/overall destroyed. Also something must be wrong with the hammer.

Try racking the slide again, see if that resets the valve knocker or whatever happens.

 

Other guesses, the part that catches the hammer is worn out or something is very wrong with the hammer or valve knocker.

 

Sad to see this pistol fail so miserably...

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Indeed. I dry fired it maybe 200 rounds without a problem, but when I went to actually shoot it it appears to be worn out already.

Guess I will have to take it appart and inspect. :(

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sounds like the same problem source, just different symptom, the hammer wont catch, but instead of falling and running full auto, its falling and not releasing gas instead, maybe theres some bit of friction that's just preventing it going auto

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sounds like the same problem source, just different symptom, the hammer wont catch, but instead of falling and running full auto, its falling and not releasing gas instead, maybe theres some bit of friction that's just preventing it going auto

 

Good guess, I'd add that something in the valve knocker is f...ed so it gets stuck and thus doesn't strike the valve again.

 

Incidentally, for the valve knocker to resist the impact from the hammer without hitting the valve hard enough to go full auto...something is wrong.

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Semi on topic.

 

Unboxing video of my "Project RS Case" case for the WE M&P in the style of a Smith & Wesson M&P9 pistol.

 

 

:o

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After fixing the stupid problem with the internal hammer cocking, the gun runs fine.

The burst fire issue didn't happen to me and the internals still look good after using the GBB quite extensively.

I've replaced the recoil spring with a stronger one (Action M1911), very crisp recoil. The slide and hop up seem to be fine with the stronger spring installed.

 

The only big con of the M&P, not counting in the casting issues with the hop-up and (in my case) the ramp on the loading nozzle frame, is the big cooldown of the mags.

But that was to be expected.

 

Overall I'm really happy with that GBB. I guess WE really stepped up their game.

 

Just installed this Action 1911 160% spring in my black WE M&P... mother of god that is alot of SNAP! I was suprised at the differense. I am kind of worried that things will break when the slide rides forward with that amount of force... But I like it :D

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So I was suposed to make a review video of my WE M&Ps yesterday. Took em out only to find none of them function properly.

 

The black one has the burst fire issue, known fix.

 

However my tan one does something completely different.

 

Gas up the magazine, insert magazine, rack slide, pull trigger. Pistol fires, blows back, goes back into battery and the valve knocker jams up against the magazine valve and I have to forcefully remove the magazine (leaks some gas when removed).

The hammer is not cocked after that.

Have to insert magazine, rack the slide again, fires again and then same as above.

This works for 3-4 shots then the magazine is empty or just dumps the gas.

 

Any ideas ? :o

 

 

FYI, thread on arms-cool exactly regarding my issues.

 

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=zh-CN&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.arms-cool.net%2Fforum%2Fthread-123935-1-1.html

 

I think I get what they mean from the translation :o

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Well *fruitcage* me sideways...

 

I took my black M&P appart today and tried to implement the fixes as per the instructions floating around.

 

Took out the hammer "sear" and sharpened up the edge/lip with a file.

 

Cut one coil on the sear spring.

 

Put in a layer of duct-tape on top of the BBU. (more tape resulted in the trigger/hammer not cocking at all, ie. BBU riding too low and disconnecting the trigger mech)

 

 

Now I have a full-auto, runaway M&P... :(

What in the fookin hell man... This blows.

 

Any ideas ? I did not file alot on the sear edge, just to make it flat and sharp. Maybe got a little too much, in combination with the cut coil the hammer is not catching at all anymore ?

 

*fruitcage* ###### this is.

 

 

Oh and my hop assembly screws stripped when I tried to get in to file on the hop wheel / housing so it could be adjusted (Loctite too much maybe? :o)

 

I also tried to file open the magazine release hole so I could revese the button, but halfway thru I realized if I do that mod, the fit of the button would be loose in the right hand position and might cause efficiency problems with the magazine and gas.

 

 

BTW, noticed the link above is wrong, here is the actual thread: http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=zh-CN&tl=en&u=http://www.arms-cool.net/forum/thread-131216-1-1.html&usg=ALkJrhhhFfZUaWSnvjk6OStQuHYlkiZ21w

Edited by NonEx

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Hey!

 

I got ###### off and went back at it. I had my tan M&P intact but both had burst issue and "hang fires" (knocker resting on valve).

 

Anyways. I took the tan trigger mech out, did just the one mod of filing the edge of the sear so it was sharp and straight and installed it, nothing else. Worked alright.

 

So then I took appart the other mech and looked at it. Cutting a coil on the spring was probably a bad idea when looking at it, so I stretched the spring back out, don't have high hopes it will hold but works for now.

 

Now, here is when I found the missing piece of the puzzle. I only filed on the sear edge, but the "hammer" edge was also rounded! So I filed that down flat so both surfaces were flat and interlocked pararell and securely, and now I have two functioning M&Ps!

 

 

we_m%2526p_trigger_fix.jpg

 

 

I only testfired 2 mags in each, but worked flawlessly (rapid fire, slow fire, manual cycling also). Just a shame you gotta go in and mod these *fruitcage*ers... And we will see how long it holds up, they didn't have these problems until 200 rounds in on each so.

 

 

As for the question of manual cycling before I did the above, it was hit and miss. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't cock and sometimes it cocked and released during manual cycle, so it was FUBAR.

 

I have to say though as many have mentioned before, the mechanism was awesome to work on. Everything was secured in place by screws and the springs were held on pegs etc. and the two halves were isolated from eachother so nothing comes flying out or dropping when you take it appart.

 

As for the hop, I am giving up on that *suitcase*. I got my tan hop unit appart, but even without the hop arm in place it won't turn. Filed a little as per instructions but did nothing. I just set it fixed to about 1/3rd and let it be.

Edited by NonEx

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I drilled out the contact surfaces on both the hammer and the sear, and put steel pins in their place

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I drilled out the contact surfaces on both the hammer and the sear, and put steel pins in their place

That sounds rather drastic.

 

Glad you got yours working NonEx, too bad it took so much work.

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I just set it fixed to about 1/3rd and let it be.

I did that months ago and it seems it was the way to go :D

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well just filing the surfaces is a bandaid, will work until the pot metal wears out again in another few hundred shots,,,, my solution will last forever...

That sounds rather drastic.

 

Glad you got yours working NonEx, too bad it took so much work.

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well just filing the surfaces is a bandaid, will work until the pot metal wears out again in another few hundred shots,,,, my solution will last forever...

Or until the pot metal gives in to the steel insert and just snaps in half :P

 

Kidding (mostly), it just sounded a bit drastic and too much hassle for a WE (IMO).

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well, the first gun I did it on it was all guesswork, took an hour or two to get it drilled properly, and shaping the surfaces properly, but the second one literally took 10 minutes, its very strong still, the pin size is precisely the same as the drill size, and the pin is coated in JBweld, its as solid as it'll ever be, maybe ill go take some pictures... wheres my phillips head, brb

 

Edit* also, the first gun that I did it to, that I did alot messier job on, has fires a few thousand shots since the "upgrade" without a single hiccup, thee second gun has only been gamed once since, but still, not a single issue

 

Also, I dunno what these guns cost you guys, but in canada my WE XDm 3.8 BNIB from a retailer, was about $245 after taxes and all, so it was very much worth my time investment to get it working again...

 

this is an XDm, but its almost identical

img0071zp.jpg
 

img0073br.jpg
 

img0074ws.jpg
 

img0075be.jpg
 

Edited by TnL

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