G&P "Stainless Steel" Replica Triple Tap Brake/thread protector

[3vi1-D4n]

This is a strange review. Its the review of an airsoft flash hider on a real firearm. Probably a bit of a taboo subject.

 

Originally I bought this to fit onto one of my airsoft M4s. I had examined a number of KAC styled flashhiders and I saw this one to be unique, durable and cheap. $25 for a "stainless steel" flashhider was a bargain. There was no KAC logo.

 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/g-p-urx-steel-flash-hider-burnt-blue-finish-14mm-ccw.html

 

I actually bought the clockwise model.

 

When I received it, I straightaway tested whether it was "stainless steel" using a magnet. It wasn't magnetic. So I emailed Ehobby and said that it was not "stainless steel".

 

Looking closely it looked like brass but wasn't. It was much harder than brass and didn't scratch using a steel brush, so I went onto the G&P website to confirm that it is "stainless 303", which is a non-magnetic stainless steel (first time I had heard of it).

 

I proceeded to mount a ICS KAC NT3 replica silencer onto it and it wouldn't fit properly, so I abandoned the flashhider in my parts box.

 

A few months later, I bought an AR15 upper with a custom threaded barrel (DPMS 1:9 HBAR) and silencer. The silencer thread was 14mm +ve and didn't come with a flashhider, so I removed the silencer (I didn't like the fouling with the silencer), and I needed something to cover the exposed thread.

 

So I had this crazy idea of using airsoft flash hiders as thread protector.

 

I needed something preferably steel (hard steel), and I needed CW as the thread was 14mm +ve, and a CCW would un-thread due to the spin imparted by the bullet.

 

I also wanted something which "could" act as a muzzle brake. I had a number of steel and non-steel flash hiders which could potentially fit, and I was aware than aluminium would not stand up to the heat, and had a higher coefficient of expansion than steel so it would un-thread itself.

 

So I chose the G&P KAC Triple tap muzzle break, because it was a one piece affair and looked durable. Locktited and threaded it on.

 

Now the G&P actually has two parts, a thin inner tube inside which has ports drilled into it, while the outer as the star baffle and is of rather thick construction.

 

The concern was baffle erosion. Steel silencer baffles had a tendency of eroding after firing and after all they are acting as muzzle brakes, where the hot gasses cause the baffle material to bubble and flake off after each round fired. So I kept an eye out for this.

 

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After nearly 800 rounds I examined the flash hider.

 

The inner tube has pretty much split away at the centre, but the inside of the outer part of the muzzle brake is intact. No sign of baffle erosion.

 

The rifle shot 1"-1.5" groups at 100m consistently with 62gr.

 

So here is a pic of the flash hider at a range:

 

 

 

 

The interesting part of the muzzle brake was that, it acted exactly as the KAC TTB did. Double taps was a breeze at 25m, 2 rounds would be about an inch apart. Compared with my long barrel upper which had substantial kick, the TTB eliminated nearly all the kick. It was a very effective brake.

 

However as you can see, the G&P TTB like the KAC TTB, did not act as a flash hider.

 

My friends had a Rainer arms comp (which is a conventional sideways comp) as well as the standard A2 to compare. The G&P creates a very sharp but dispersed concussion while the Rainer arms a more thuddingly forceful concussion. At a range it was uncomfortable to shoot beside the Rainer arms but it was ok with the G&P.

 

Using the rifle in FIBUA, like the TTB, the concussion from the brake was much better than the Rainer Arms but not as good as the A2. When the weapon was fired everyone in the room would feel the shock. My MSA Sordins did not hold up to the concussion and my right ear rang for a day.

 

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So there you have it. Its probably not the review for airsoft but its good to know that it works as a very pretty "thread protector".

 

This was only possible because the barrel was threaded for 14mm+ve which is not the usual 5.56mm 1/2" X 28mm thread. A 14mm +ve is for a 7.62X39 and the bullet will not travel through the G&P TTB.

 

So while this IS possible, please don't try this at home unless you know what you are doing

Edited November 21, 2012 by 3vi1-D4n

[John_234]

Using the rifle in FIBUA, like the TTB, the concussion from the brake was much better than the Rainer Arms but not as good as the A2. When the weapon was fired everyone in the room would feel the shock. My MSA Sordins did not hold up to the concussion and my right ear rang for a day.

The Sordins do cap out at about 18 dB, I think. They suggest you wear them with earplugs for any sort of indoor or vehicular use. I just use mine for outdoor pistol and shotgun shooting on top of airsoft, so its never been an issue.

[DFM56]

Yep, always double up for indoor shooting. Also, you're probably going to erode the front of the brake off relatively quickly, but it's interesting that the design still works fairly well when it's made of 303 for less than $20.

[uscmCorps]

Consider getting the gel seals for your sordins. They cost $30-40 but they'll give you a much better seal including around eye pro therefore giving you potentially better hearing protection and certainly better all day comfort.

[John_234]

Consider getting the gel seals for your sordins. They cost $30-40 but they'll give you a much better seal including around eye pro therefore giving you potentially better hearing protection and certainly better all day comfort.

Ditto, and try removing the headband cover. If you have a larger head, they might keep you from getting a proper seal too. But I do suggest doubling up with ear pro for indoor work with Sordins anyway.