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You may be mistaking that for another system. Tanaka PEGASUS revolvers only hold up to 14 with the exception of some SAA models where more bbs (up to 18 total) can be stored in the ejection rod housing. Bbs are stored like a rotary magazine and only load empty chambers when they come into alignment. The valve itself sits directly behind the chambered bb and the forcing cone has an o-ring seal against the cylinder. IMO they have the best gas efficiency among gas revolvers.


thats fair enough and my mistake. it was my first port of call for the rex but as its patented i didnt want to risk it.

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Dr Arnie, good work.


Watching the debate with interest.

Dedicated pistol and mid-cap low cap players will be more into this than 100rd aep mag players or AEG box maggers, both have there place and playing styles, in the depths of English winter a 100rd AEP will be most handy indeed, but somewhat detatched from reality, and only running real-caps or low caps on an open box mag hi-cap day will result in a big disadvantage in fire power, each to there own.

Run what you like, freedom of choice, or stick to mids only days.


Recent convert to Tri-shottys and Revolver's, i have a bad habit of going tricked up Glock 17 only on high-cap box mag days, makes it more interesting and exciting and dosen't hold me back, a lot of the time i am first to wade in shoot up the other team, back off reload while my team catch up and wade in. Best so far is 6 AEG players in one go with dual G17's on standard 24rd mags. Up your game play, get wild :) but really pay attention to setting up your pistol if you don't want to be cut down every 5 mins.


Playable Revolvers, all seem a bit lackluster and limited.


Some pistol player feedback.


I bought a Dan Wesson 4" Chrome. Out of the box doing 380-400fps as expected. Following chatter on de-tuning, a few spring changes later and running around 315fps .20 bb on my Madbull V1 chrono and 335fps .20bb on the game sites Xcortech chrono (site chrono is one that matters)

Out put is fairly stable, dependant on rate of fire i expect at least 100 fairly consistant shots from a CO2 capsule. After that psi drops off but can get around 170 shots per capsule.

No hop up (yet) effective range is 15-20meters, max 20-25meters, when range drops off, psi is dropping. In this form only good for close encounters or moving around huts. My TM G17 are good to 40-50m under some conditions i have hit out to 60m (hard work)

The Wesson shoots straight and accurate, lack of hop limits range, i aim to try the o-ring hop mod at some point, see if i can push range around 35meters, from my viewpoint thats a more playable range, but as it stands the fps output/variation is good enough to shoot accurate within it's current range limits.



When running the Glock with a 24rd mag i mostly have to double or triple tap players for them to know they have been hit, some times a mag dump, the closer the range the less shots it takes. Silent running with a TM MK23 is more trouble, i run red dot sights for more accurate shot placement to get down on shots needed. I use .30 bb


Dan Wesson shells and jet loaders, takes some practice to get good reloading, very very tactile experince and lots of fun when got right. Been running 6 in gun and 2 jet loaders, so 18rds ready. The other revolver players i have spoken with factor in reloading the cylinder. So down to last 6 shells, fire 2, top off the emptys in cylinder with a speed loader, yes slow to do, but keeps you going, you don't need 48 spare shells in jets to play, also loaded jet loaders are quite chunky.

There is another option of circular disc mags on the Ruger styled hawk air/pistol/soft revolvers, that would be more playable and faster to reload and easier to carry more loaded disc's and a lot cheaper. I wanted shells so got that.


I expected some wild variations on FPS output (from watching shady youtube reviews) it's not as bad as i expected, not as good as a TM G17 but different gas types and router systems.

Wesson is direct route from valve through base of shell. Condition of shell lips (fake bullet head) may affect fps, condition of valve seal and cylinder barrel seal will affect fps, gas path is direct, not as good as a Tanaka, but better than a TM Python.


Limits of a six shooter.

6 shots under some conditions could equal 6 hits, i would go more with double tapping, so my 6 shots equals 3 players. When pistol only i tend to go for single or 2 player groups as targets, if in my favour i will attack 3 players with AEGs. From an ambush tactic and with 2 Glocks i will attack/ambush much larger groups.

With 6 shots only i would stick to less is best, spare jet in left hand ready to reload, bag and tag, go to cover reload. A very stylised game play, 6 shot big chrome volver, nice leather rig and open top jet pouches, it won't be easy, and won't be for many, but if your good, and dialled in....damn is it fun, they see you coming, they see the pistol only, they laugh and are slow, i am fast and accurate, they are walking to regen.


I like the concept of the swap out cylinder. So one will do 30 shots, so 5x6shot clips per cylinder, cheap clips that i won't worry about losing in mud, then a spare cylinder with another 5x6 clips in a small pouch, so 60 shots then go to cover, regas, bomb up, go again, more playable than a Wesson but less stylish.


Something made for airsoft, that can use standard pistol barrels that has at least a fixed hop, even better would be adjustable hop that can use a stock hop-rubber or an easy to modify stock rubber.


Could just be me being weird :) but i love shooting snipers and M14 owners, they never take it to well when they see it's come from a dirty great big scoped up pistol, be even worse from a dirty great chrome revolver.


Awaits the next progress update. :)

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Been thinking more about your intention to use standard TM GBB barrels and hop rubber. It might sound ok on paper, but I'm worried about the actual chamber face of the rubber. Pretty much all gas revolvers out there that have a hop use a patch and the forcing cone of the barrel itself is either a separate piece of smooth plastic or a chamfered end of the brass barrel itself. When the exiting bb jumps the forcing cone it's ideal to have little contact with pretty much anything before it hits the hop and if it does hit something along the way it's something with a low friction coefficient so the bb doesn't spin in random directions. Since there won't be a nozzle pushing the bb past the exposed rubber seal on the hop rubber (like it does on a GBB) the bb may hit it and mess with the consistency.

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Was thinking along those line myself RC,  so maybe a modified VSR rubber,  just snip off the nozzle seal part leaving the actual nub to do it's job.


As long as it's simple or easy to convert an existing rubber to for spares,  and stock TM rubbers are rather good and fairly cheap (nineball purples are around £17 now in the UK)

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Finally get a chance to post after reading all your interest i am very happy that you all like this it has taken a lot of hard work and some minor impossibilities (not sure if its a real word) but i can see its all been worth it I’m itching to hold it as are many of you and we aim to please (and to all those i will make a 6" barrel mod as we all know bigger is better but be aware you may need to rest it on a fellow skirmisher or buy a bipod or 2) so i will be closely watching your posts for improvements and recommended mods!,


thanks again all




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also looking to do a speed loader for this based on the usual mid cap loaders but with 6 perfectly placed outlets for quick reload of the cylinders as there should be enough gas for 2 reloads on the cylinder (i can do math me :P) so if the preverbal hits the fan u can cower behind cover like the mortals we are and re-load, then vault over the cover and lay the PAIN!!!! (yes i am very bored at work!)

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  • 2 weeks later...

right time for a update, all be it a small one. spoke with the engineering firm today and should get a quote and a time frame within the next week. from the rough estimates its going cost a bomb to get this prototype built, but it shall be done!


i am also regret to inform you that it will not have the blued steel finish of which i promised, this is due to the fact it will have to be made out of aluminium instead of steel. sadly the steel would have doubled the price and it cant be afforded right now. future models should hopefully be in steel and blued.


the good news however is that the more orders that we receive for the rex the cheaper each one will be. the pro type will be expensive due to the labour intensive task of programming the CNC machine for the first one.


i will also say that we will try and have a couple made for GZ 2013 for those Arnies members that come along.


post any questions and my apologies on the delay and the material/finish change. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

hi all, its been a while and sorry for the very slow progress but a bit of an update,


we ran into a substantial problem with the valve assembly so had to redesign it however as it is a unique piece we are unsure whether it will work so the main gun will not be built until these valves have been built and tested. reason for this is that if they do not work then we will just have a prety paper weight until it is sorted. this takes me onto the next point.


keswick and i sat down with the engineering firm on wednesday as pricing was becoming an issue. the problem we have is that the main costs with a prototype are the machine programing costs and learning how to set the material up to be machined. this raises the cost of the prototype to ungodly prices. to put it in to perspective the outer barrel was going to cost around £200 and that was one of the cheapest parts we had quoted at the time. However! there is good news!


as we are not heartless multinational companies mass production methods are not available to us therefore cnc is the only option and as such this raises the cost of the product.  the prices will be no where near the prototypes cost though.


it is important to note tho that the more orders that are received/placed the cheaper the product will be for each customer.


my apologies its not the update i had wanted to make but this project is proving incredibly challenging. keswick and myself are trying to do on a shoe string budget in a year what most ocmpanies spend £100,00's and years on. 

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not yet it all depends on how many we need to make (once issues if any with protoype are ironed out) the more orders we get the lower the cost per one, the way its looking i may have to roll up my sleves and get on a lathe again to hand build some of the more detailed parts as the CNC wont go that detailed, what has this world come to! (which will reduce the end cost but be quite time consuming) but do not fear my pistol weilding comrades where theres a will theres a way. nothings impossible! it just takes that little bit longer!

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Just a thought: a plastic Rex will still be very much in demand as long as it's accurately modeled and reliable as evidenced by the countless of people happy with their Tanakas and Marushins. Have you considered getting the bulk of it (barrel, cylinder, frame) 3D printed in some kind of high impact polymer instead? I imagine it would bring down prototyping costs significantly and you could try selling a few hand machined full-metal models as a premium until you get the mass produced version on track. Plus you would have gained some capital from primary sales.

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i have thought about this myself and it isnt out of the relm of possibility but as 3d printing is still quite costly and because the parts still need to have a fine tolerance in places it still isnt cheap. i will look into it in more detail but keswick got a quote from where he works and it worked out to be a mere £400 for the barrel alone :-/

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I personally fear for the judges of the Arnie's build contest, too many ingenious designs to choose a winner from!


Well, I hate to scare you notrabies, but you will be judging the build contest - along with every other Arnies member for that matter. Everyone gets to cast their vote!

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This stuff about the high price of machining is very dispiriting. I know that it would be a LOT cheaper to machine prototypes out of Delrin or something similar (because the softer plastic can be subjected to much higher feed rates without breaking the mill) and you obviously won't need a nice surface finish, so there's always that to bring the costs down. Plus, AFAIK, a CAD file is the same for whatever you will be machining it out of, so your design when finalised will be just fine for aluminium, steel, plastic - whatever. That said, I definitely wouldn't resort to 3D printing. The materials are not the same at all, and the fidelity of the parts in the tougher materials is pretty bad.


Plus, everyone needs to be realistic. If it were possible to have a CNC'd billet steel airsoft revolver for £200, someone would be doing it. Limited production is expensive, good materials are expensive - you get what you pay for.


For whatever it is worth, I think that you should worry about the bridge of getting it machined when you get to cross it. If you can get the design finalised digitally, then you can have some engineering prototypes machined out of plastic. Once you have video of your proposed system actually working, it will be a lot easier to persuade people to part with their cash, which is what you need to bring the costs down. Personally, since I'm a bit hung up on the steel, you might even consider selling people the finalised CNC design for them to work on realising themselves. In my head:

  1. Continue CAD design to 'functioning prototype stage'.
  2. Machine first functioning prototype out of plastic. This can be basically just a block on the outside as long as it's the same on the inside. Test thoroughly, and adjust CAD file as necessary.
  3. Machine second functioning prototype out of plastic. This, again, can be pretty rough on the outside - omit all the detail work, the finishing passes and all that. Keep it cheap.
  4. Finesse the second prototype until you're happy to demonstrate its function.
  5. Get quotes for replicating the second prototype in various materials (plastic, aluminium, steel) and canvass for support.
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  • 1 month later...

Sorry for no reply has been a hectic month and very very busy as I found out im to be a dad!! we have done some re-designs to help reduce machining costs without compromising the build quality, we are looking into hiring a workshop for a few days (or weeks) so that I can roll up my sleeves and as top gear would say "cue the music" .slight issue with the delrin is as you said its soft and with a lot of places at 0.5mm wall thicknesses it would turn to brown trousers time also trying to contain ~ 800psi in plastic would be scary to say the least, but we have looked at doing what we can out of a cheap plastic for now (where structural integrity is not a major) do not worry this WILL be done, as they say difficult tasks take time, impossible.... just a bit longer

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