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Cyma Romanian AIMS CM050


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Link: http://www.acmgear.com/cyma-aims-romania-cm050-p-3204.html

CHECK MY VIDEO, TO SEE IT SHOOTING AND THE BLOWBACK

 





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Im not going into the history of the real AIMS, if you wanna know more, go to:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pistol_Mitralier%C4%83_model_1963/1965

Suffice to say that the AIMS is the Romanian version of the soviet AK47 or, more precisely, the soviet AKM.
Pretty much everything you don’t see externally different on this gun is the same as on any other AK made by Cyma,
with an LCT type construction. So it can basically use any internal upgrades for regular Version 3 gearboxes,
and externally anything that goes with LCT bodies. This means more pins and rivets and less screws, like the real deal.
Being as sturdy as this is, I cant see why you would need to change anything. You can also add real steel furniture.
While the metal doesn’t seem to be steel (but not pot metal either) you can still give it a nice “used” or “battle” look
or aging with as little as a screwdriver and some steel wool. Same goes for the wood parts. Have a look at these aging guides:

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/reviewpost/showproduct.php/product/756/cat/55/title/d-i-yaging-and-weathering-process-give-your-airsoft-gun-an-authentic-appearance-21
Please note that my pictures show the gun with a Dboys pistol grip, as I prefer the fake Bakelite over the Cyma matte black grips. Also, I’m using a cheap Chinese sling. In some pictures you will see a longer magazine, it’s the Cyma RPK-47 hi-cap magazine.

http://www.acmgear.com/cyma-magazine-akrpk-series-800rds-p-2712.html

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Everything else in this gun is stock.

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The gun comes nicely packaged in a cardboard box with a picture of the gun on top, and includes the gun itself,
a 600 round metal hi-cap magazine, a battery and charger, instruction manual and a cleaning rod. Clean the barrel first thing.

I use all my boxes for gun transport; I simply turn the top part inside-out to hide the pictures of the gun, so it’s just a
long bong box.

The gun itself is full metal and wood. The only plastic you will find is that of the pistol grip, as is the real gun,
only usually made of bakelite. I cannot tell what type of metal it is, but it’s sturdy. It’s painted flat black so it
doesn’t exactly look like an old AK (which I think were blued?), but more like a modern AK-103 or whatever. I usually
never age my gun, but you should. I actually like the finish of this gun: it’s flat black but somehow grainy, not smooth
like on MP5s or M4s, so it looks more rugged, more manly, more soviet…

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The wood is laminated, which isn’t as pretty as parts made of one piece of wood, but I prefer the cheaper, rugged
look that it provides. Also, this type of wood is not as sensitive, I believe. And if it gets a dent, it’s harder to see it.
You can always install a RS wood kit or airsoft kit that you like better.

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The front grip is not in everyone’s taste, but you got to admit it’s sets this gun apart. Furthermore: it’s really helpful.
I don’t hold it like a normal grip, with the whole hand, but rather use it to pull the gun up and back against my body,
making it super stable, by keeping my palm like in this picture below. The reason I like to hold it like this is that
this gun is very accurate, I use it almost like a DMR. Take into account that it’s noticeably longer than “its counterpart”,
the M4 carbine. I get very tense, flat and out-reaching BB trajectories-

The barrel does have the correct satin finish.
There’s a dummy cleaning rod underneath it.
You may install an AK type grenade launcher, like the Dboys GP-25.

One the my favorite features about the Romanian AIMS is the slanted flash hider. This particular shape (originally found
on the AKM) is to compensate for the heavy muzzle climb that AKs suffer. Why to the side, then? Apparently, AKs tend to
move to the right, too, especially when shooting in full-auto.

The FH is screwed onto a -14 mm thread and a spring loaded pin in the front sight prevents the FH from unscrewing. I lost
this pin while switching between the FH and my tracer silencer:


I put a little glue on the FH, no pin, so it doesn’t move around.

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The gun is based on the VFC-LCT type of metal body, which resembles the real steel AK construction a lot. Made from sheet metal,
this gun is very, very strong and sturdy. No wobble anywhere and you could use this as a club, if need be.

Now the side folding stock (called “coat hanger”), designed to allow the use of a grenade launcher and still be
able to fold the stock, unlike on under-folders, like the AKMS or the Ak-47S, does have some up&down play. This is easily
fixed with some tape, like seen in the picture; no more wobble.
The stock folds to the right side, controls are still accessible and locks into place by the stock hinge.

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Here she's with the Cyma UltimAK rail:
http://www.acmgear.com/cyma-aluminum-handguard-p-2465.html

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On top of the body is the ribbed cover. Remove it to reveal the battery compartment, which goes all the way through the upper
handguard, so you could use even a 12V battery. You can use stick batteries or any thin LiPo battery, which I recommend.
Im using 7.4V LiPos and they give great trigger response and ROF, with no need for MOSFETs or any type of modification. Plug and play.

Weight: 3,4 kilos unloaded (7 pounds).

The gun is 700 mm–900 mm long, depending on how much you extend the stock. There’s a rubber pad for AK stocks, but I dont really
like it and this coat hanger stock is actually very comfortable.

You have got 2 sling attachment points, AK style. Im using a cheap Chinese sling that I had on a Thompson. The cheapness is perfect
with the AIMS.

The charging handle and fake bolt move to reveal the hop up adjustment lever. Hop up is very smooth and is held in place by friction.
Haven´t bothered to change the rubber, as mine works just fine.

Another one of the treats of the Cyma AIMS is the electric blowback. Before you even think about it: no, it doesn’t hurt the gearbox.
It gives the gun a very pleasant noise and rattle, the GB even has some recoil and is very impressive, visually (CHECK VIDEO).
Seriously: try it before you criticize it. The fake bolt is connected to the piston and offers some resitance, but lets face it:
if these motors and gearboxes withstand a 450 FPS spring, why wouldn’t they be able to cope with the minimal force of the EBB?
I have never heard of any AEG failing because of the EBB.

Note that, while the gun has no recoil system, the piston slams against the front of the GB so hard (even with the downgraded spring),
that you can feel some type of shock every time you shoot. Combine that with the sheet metal construction,
and you have a very loud AK… as it should be… because it’s an AK.

The iron sights are the typical AK sights, fully adjustable for elevation (rear sight) and elevation (front sight). You can install
an AK type rail for optics on the provided AK side-mount plate. Or you can install (no mods needed, takes under 2 minutes) a
Cyma UltimAK replica gas tube rail, like here (not mine).

No mystery about the hi-cap magazine either: metal, 600 rounder. Note that Doys/Kalash magazines need some sanding, modifying
to work in this and vice versa. Cyma mags are better quality anyway. The hi-cap feeds fine, but the metal hop-up chamber started
cutting into the bb stopper of the mag, so I removed it.
I particularly like the look of the long Cyma RPK mags (metal would be the RPK-47, orange-lite is from my Cyma RPK-74):

http://www.acmgear.com/cyma-magazine-akrpk-series-800rds-p-2712.html

Fire selector is smooth and crisp: unlike many other AK selectors (Dboys, for instance), this one moves smoothly, clicks into the
holes nicely and doesn’t go out of the receiver when selecting semi. The one on my Cyma RPK works even better. The one on my Dboys
AIMS sucked and looked like it would fall off any day.

The three fire positions, top-safe/centre-auto/bottom-semi, aren’t that way because eastern block soldier only used full auto,
but because a soldier, in the heat of battle, being nervous, would pull the selector all the way down and land on full auto,
so they decided to reverse the order, so that a pull in tension would go to semi, and you would need to make a conscious decision
to select full auto, which is in the middle.

Now to the shooting.

All measurements were performed with KSC 0,20 gram BBs and a Big Dragon chrono. No hop up. Cleaned inner barrel.

- Muzzle velocity: 390 FPS

- Rate of fire: 900 RPM / 15 RPS

- Effective range: 60 meters (54 yards). This means you can hit a human sized target at that range; even if the BBs go beyond,
you don’t have much accuracy beyond this distance.

- Precision:

Din-A3 sheet shot from 39 meters (35 yards)

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Pros:
- affordable price
- good, durable construction
- excellent performance, one of my best battle rifles
- quality internals
- fun EBB
- unique look among AKs


Cons:
- slightly wobbly stock, fixed with tape.
FPS too high
not steel like the Dboys, but the Dboys even has a wobbling barrel, not well built at all


Side optics mount

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Adjustable iron sights

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The blowback turns the hop off on mine after a while where it sometimes slightly catches it. I've fitted upper and lower East German hand guards to mine with very little modification, just some of the handguard needed filing down which I personally think looks much better than that horrid wooden vertical fore grip.

 

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