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TM vsr-10 bore-up full PDI


m4nt4s

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Hi all,
I have finally finished my sniper toy project and would like to hear your professional opinion lads smile.gif

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TM VSR-10 G-Spec instead of regular model (I bought g-spec just because the scope rails and a silencer)
PDI Bore up Premier Palsonite Cylinder SET VC
PDI Hop Up Chamber Ver.2 with packing
PDI Light Outer Barrel 690
6 Barrel Spacers (was a real hell to push in the barrel...)
W Hold chamber packing ( they reccomend W hold because of PDI new chamber)
PDI V Trigger2
PDI 554mm/RAVEN01 Inner barrel
PDI fat 13mm spring which gives 520fps but Vacum piston reduces it by 20fps, so rifle has 500 fps in total)

The gun I bought from firesupport Ltd. All the internals bought from Japan X-FIRE PDI official distributor, first package was held in UK customs for 2 weeks, and had to pay them 23,5%. Second parcel (spring and O rings...) arrived in 4 days. (generally speaking if you order something bellow 40 punds, no customs charge and 4 days delivery). So in the end, including shipping and customs charge, all the internals cost me roughly 25% less than buying here in UK)
 

so anyway, the target diameter 9cm, mid red area diameter 1,5cm was set at 20 meters. I'v done 25 shots to it and hit them all, you can see the picture. Was shooting without bipod in the sitting position. Aiming 1-5 seconds.

was using MADBULL precision .36 sniper BB

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later shot a can of coke at the same 20m distance, and it went through nicelly

http://s979.beta.photobucket.com/user/marija_v/media/shootingacan_zps1d38713a.mp4.html?sort=3&o=3

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Good luck with this rifle.... it will take you a long time to see the result of £900 invested in it... don't expect instant results .....  as said the 0.40g is the ammo i would recommend. I also agree that i would not have used the inner barrel. PDI say their 6.08mm is the most accurate, 6.01mm is best for velocity and i guess the 6.05mm is a compromise of both. I have a PDI 6.05mm in my tanaka m40a1 and its very nice.

 

Personally, I think PDI is over priced, but the prrof is in the pudding. let us know when you can hit a lasered 100 yard target and what percentage of rounds land on the paper. My laylaxed VSR can do 33% and cost me £250 (second hand).

 

Good Hunting ;)

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Good luck with this rifle.... it will take you a long time to see the result of £900 invested in it... don't expect instant results ..... as said the 0.40g is the ammo i would recommend. I also agree that i would not have used the inner barrel. PDI say their 6.08mm is the most accurate, 6.01mm is best for velocity and i guess the 6.05mm is a compromise of both. I have a PDI 6.05mm in my tanaka m40a1 and its very nice.

 

Personally, I think PDI is over priced, but the prrof is in the pudding. let us know when you can hit a lasered 100 yard target and what percentage of rounds land on the paper. My laylaxed VSR can do 33% and cost me £250 (second hand).

 

Good Hunting ;)

hi Hunter,

Yes indeed, it's a very delicate toy, and teaching me patience a lot lol and that's a reason I'm posting here, so I can have professional help. Inner barrels is quite expensive way to experiment, I got 6.1 just because they say that bore-up system 55cm barrel and vacum system works better together, but yesterday I found out that PDI can't even predict the strength of their own springs. Anyway will try to max this build for now... well my last results, after I adjusted hop-up were better, could hit 2 pound coin size thing in 20 meters 5/10. But this saturday, I had a game and it was tested with chronograph... 571,573,572,572,574 fps, wth lol, it was suppose to be 490-500 theoreticlly (PDI say that their spr spring has been tested and it had 520fps using hard piston and according to them vacum piston reduce fps by 20), after changing to 460 fps spring it was still 520fps wth?? if the manufacturers say that it had 460fps tested. So later I took 2 derilum rings off, and finally had a relief after testing, 490-500fps, so marshal could let me play. Perhaps it was bore-up cylinder set, it has inner diameter bigger by 1mm, so I guess more air pressure and it gives more fps... So I had Maruzen grand master 0.3 bbs, and was very disappointed. I could actually see the bb flight path and the big hop on 50m... didn't have time to play again with my hop-up system, so changed back to 0.36 madbull bbs. Tested them quicklly on 45m head size target, nice flat trajectory 10 hits of 10. So I assume that heavier bbs are not affecter by hop-up that much. Definitelly need to try with 0.40-0.43 bbs now. Well anyway had a nice game, many kills, some guys could't even reach me with their guns, that was quite funny, because I could shoot them from very far.

btw Hunter, what size target can you hit in 100 yard with your vsr?

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If you are achieving 10 out of 10 hits on a head sized target at 45m you have got the consistancy required to prove highly effective. The gun has great grouping and now you just need to optimise range settings (hop) to optimise the power and consistancy, with minimal overhop over The bore up  cylinder in my opinion is for high power setups, although i have no experience with it. How did the low power spring fair over the chronograph? You say 490-500fps, is that a +/- 5fps variation? Was this the velocity with 0.20g BB's? Try to use a fps calculator; like the one here on Arnies (CLICKHERE) . Which gives a rersult of 371.58fps if you were chronographing with 0.36g 

The heavier pellets give more consistant readings at higher powers and negates the fact you can gain power creep with high powered setups. Heavier pellets stay in the barrel longer than the 0.20g and can pick up more energy (joules).

 

I suggest you need time on a firing range of one type or another. Have actual measured distances, or invest in a cheap laser rangefinder. Make a range card. Work out how many mildots required for different ranges and write it dowon as a table. Showing distance and hold over/under. Zero the scope well and make sure it is 100% level to the action/hop first... the pellets need to drop away vertically in the scope picture. Study the wind as this is a major part of the single shot game imo. Again time on the range in different conditions with notepad. Practice shooting up/downhill.... if possible also at moving targets (this is where a dedicated spotter comes into his own). Practice and familiarity make you the most effective you can be. After a while you become more informed when making your first shot, as to where to aim..... it's often not on the target, due to distance, angle or wind. Invest time in firing pellets in all manner of situations and make notes. With small tables cellotaped onto your stock so you can look upo info as required.

 

I suggest you try to get some of the non orange 0.40g BB's. I use either the blaster 0.40g (tan) ... but now they have changed to grey :( ... or the Madbull 0.40g (tan) BB. But again I am unsure what the current supply is of the them and if the grade of pellet is still good. I'm shooting off supplies of pellets, I got years back, when prices were cheaper. I think it is important to invest in pellets if you want the best from an expensive setup. You can get away with cheap 0.30g in a bog standard Bar 10; but a £900 setup requires better quality ammo, that is at least supposed to be +/- 0.001mm or better.

 

At 100 yards we shoot at A1 papers. There is skill in lob shooting to get the best distance from any ballistic equipment, including single action airsoft rifles. So practice shooting at long distance where the pellet is in the air for a long time  and outside factors of angle, wind and movement, make a hit far harder to land. Airsoft's limited pellet weights limits the bolt actions performance over long distance. This is where the real skill/game is imo.

 

Practice makes perfect, learn to keep still, espescially your head. Stay low and be overly cautious but not too slow on the ground. Compromise, be an oppertunist, as well as laying carefully thought out/positioned ambushes.

 

What sidearm do you have? Do you have a spotter? If so please describe.

 

Good Hunting ')

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