Typewriter Posted February 19, 2013 Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 Looking great! I'm curious to see how the cocking works once the gun is ready. Love the design of the stock. So bizarre! Link to post Share on other sites
mightyjebus Posted February 19, 2013 Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 one option for the brown goo is to paint the stock in wood glue and sprinkle with fine saw dust. once this sets you will have a textured surface for the brown goo to stick to. Another option would be to coat the stock in wood glue and sprinkle on heavier saws dust and once set sand it smooth. Then once you are happy apply a layer of epoxy resin which would give it the look you are trying to get. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Another option would be to coat the stock in wood glue and sprinkle on heavier saws dust and once set sand it smooth. Then once you are happy apply a layer of epoxy resin which would give it the look you are trying to get. WHERE THE HELL WERE YOU TWENTY FOUR HOURS AGO?!? Seriously man, you coulda spared me from the frustration. I'm starting to get used to the sloppy procedure I've started with, but it's still nowhere as easy as wiping your butt using only your elbows. Progression shots below, had to stop at the grip as there's nowhere else to hold on to. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Ok, now I've got everything covered. I know what some of you are saying, that it looks like I made brown or that it looks like cork board or particle board, but when I get it sanded down, stained and lacquered it's gonna look ace. And that's me still being humble. Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 It looks like a digestive. I'm hungry now. Link to post Share on other sites
Kenworth W900 Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Now coat it in chocolate Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 chocolate Link to post Share on other sites
mightyjebus Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Sorry my woodworking skills came a day too late but I'm in a crappy country which has internet occasionally (if you stand on one leg, whilst wearing a tin foil hat and repeating the lords prayer backwards) BTW I would eat that stock as it looks right now. Link to post Share on other sites
FireKnife Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Damn it I want a biscuit. But as for the XP-100, it will be so cool to see it when it is ready, will need pics to show accuracy though. 'FireKnife' Link to post Share on other sites
Typewriter Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 This may sound silly, but what's the idea with the sawdust? It looked perfectly fine before that, now I don't know... Maybe it will SHINE once you got it lacquered and stuff! Link to post Share on other sites
ninja master of coffee Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Check the original pictures of the real thing it's replicating, the sawdust, once lacquered will replicate the look of the real thing. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 once lacquered Beginning to doubt I'll even get there. Remember when I said I got the idea to use this stuff with it being very durable as an accidental mess on my workbench? Well it's extremely hard to sand now! Link to post Share on other sites
Kenworth W900 Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Well, that makes sense - pykrete (of Project Habakkuk fame) is a ridiculously strong material. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 It kinda does feel futile, like sanding cement. Took nearly the whole day just to smooth most of it out and I've carved out the grooves on the side (looks fuzzy now as I just applied the brown goop in it). Also, rape. Link to post Share on other sites
Danke Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 You should consider making a mold of that before you take it much further. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Mold? What for? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Anyone got experience using Lumiweld or Muggy Weld? I'm thinking of investing in learning to work with the stuff as apparently a simple $5 butane pencil torch can do the job (put off by an oxy-acetylene rig) and the weld rods themselves are far from expensive. I'll be using it for future projects, but was thinking I may as well use it for fabricating the bolt. The XP-100 bolt has a weird dog leg design, never knew why but it's iconic for it. My idea was to saw the original bolt handle in half and lumiweld the other half fabricated from aluminum to its side to get the zigzag shape. It says it has a bond strength of 30,000psi but I really have no idea what that relates to in real life so thought I'd ask here if that small section to be welded is strong enough. Also, did most of the fine sanding on the stock. Need to thicken some areas a bit that's to have checkering and inlay. Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Mold? What for? I think people want to buy copies from you... Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Lumi-Weld is great providing you do it right... VERY solid, follow the instructions, practice a little and its pretty easy to do. Deffinatley very strong, I used it to reinforce the VFC MP5 bolt carrier, which is actually made of the softest metal ive ever seen. Lumi-Weld held up 1000x more than the standard bolt. Cycled 500 rounds barely wore down. It can be a little tricky though, keeping all the various surfaces the right temp for it all to weld together. Ive done it a few times, thinking I have a solid join go to sand it it just falls off. Do it right you cant get it off. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 That's good to hear. Will be ordering the supplies earlier then. Link to post Share on other sites
Kenworth W900 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Just my humble opinion, but I would not personally trust a lumi-welded dog-leg bolt. Pulling an upgraded spring just scares me a little, incase it snaps and goes flinging off. Link to post Share on other sites
Dr.Arnie Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Lovely piece of work there, as always. Love the detail and how well it looks. I was wondering lately about using alumi weld like stuff, be interesting to see the results. Link to post Share on other sites
TnL Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 does this Lumi Weld stuff work on pot metal? on say an explodered bolt?http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/8890/img00501.JPG Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Should do, worked on a VFC bolt carrier and that was made of cheese and tears. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 I've also read of people using it to patch up gearboxes, so zinc alloys are ok (also says so in their manual of weldable things). I have a mind to appropriate a friends couple of broken V7 gearboxes for practice. @Kenworth I suppose I could drill through both sections first and have a steel screw join them before I weld them together. Link to post Share on other sites
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