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Stark-Arms/VFC Glock 19

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Canklebreaker,

 

Crusader does offer a "Night sight" set for Stark's Glocks at a reasonably fair price but I'm afraid it doesn't glow in the dark.

As for the slide, I don't think there are any after market slides out there yet.

 

No it doesnt glow, Night sight "style", i suspect that its the same style that came with the vfc/cybergun m&p 9c

 

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Anyone by chance get a traded version shipped over to the states through WGC lately? Very interested in picking one up if I can still get the trademarked version, I know I use to be able to get TMs by just telling them to split the slide and frame and cover the trades with tape.

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I want to quote Borat here but I think it's not appropriate. But yeah, they are a tight fit.

 

KIC Taiwan can probably get you the Stark +2 plates if you want, but RS is the way to go :P

Edited by NonEx

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RS Base pads are going to be tight enough they'll be a PITA to open up to add gas. They're great for show, but not entirely functional. Just my 2 cents. 

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Right, that is true and I guess the +2 are even more cumbersome due to the added size. I don't really consider those aspects of it due to how I "use" my airsoft guns.

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I guess that I will contact KICtaiwan then for the +2s. I want them for finnish G17F look, but I don't want to lose the functionality.

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Since the Tokyo Marui Glock magazines allegedly work with the stark arms magazines why not buy a bunch of the TM magazines with the shooter design extended base plates? Or by the TM G 17 competition mags which already include the extended base pads?

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I have 3 TM G17 mags which I plan to sell with my TM gun. All the mags need a really hard tap to the base when you insert them. Otherwise the mags might not seat properly, which causes them to drop. 

While I do tap the magazine every time I reload, with Stark gun and TM mag the tap is kinda over exaggerated. The Stark magazine inserts without unneeded force.

I did have Shooter design's base pads on my TM mags.. all were scattered around the AO during first two skirmishes while using them. 

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I just want to note that HK3P / WE mags are slightly too wide and has a notch on the back of the mag that somewhat interferes with inserting the mag into the Stark Glock.

 

I've tried fitting the HK3P mags into my Stark G19 and whilst they do work with the gun the mags need to be pulled out of the frame with some force as they won't drop free.

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So i got my G19 the other day and finally got a chance to shoot it, Cracking gun great accuracy and power. Looks very good with the correct trades as well.

 

Only issue i have is the slide not fully returning at times, Can i just put this down to it being new and everything being tight? or do i need to strip it down and clean and re lube it or is there other issues that need addressing, IE modifying Rails/Slide?

 

Already lubed it when i got it 

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It doesn't go back into battery because the hammer rubs against the BBU too much and the main recoil spring is a bit weak (the long one). That said I lubed mine with super lube on both the rails and the recoil rod and it goes back into battery just fine.

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Well I just had my first "incident" with the full-auto switch, as follows;

 

This morning as I woke up I played with my beloved Stark Glock 19, as one does, and it slid out of my hands and onto carpet covered hardwood floor, a drop of around 30cm (1ft).

 

Upon picking it up I cycled it to do a functions check and found that the trigger was not resetting when I pulled the trigger and cycled the slide manually while holding in the trigger to the rear (magazine has no gas in it). I was like "well *fruitcage* me just my luck for this bad boy to break because of that".

 

I took it appart had a look, nothing, put it back together, cycled it a bit and what have you but still same. Granted I had just woken up and had to go to work I couldn't be bothered to look further into it at that point.

 

Well, flash forward to me daydreaming and troublshooting in my head at work, it hits me, the symptoms are those that would happen if the gun was in full-auto mode. Can't wait to get home to check...

 

Get home, grab hold of the gun, lock the slide to the rear and check, sure enough, the switch is in the full-auto position. Put it back to semi mode and all is good.

 

God damnit!

 

A couple of things to be noted;

 

  • The gun did switch to full-auto after a very minor and dampened fall. As we were afraid of.

 

  • I have never since I bought this gun had it switche to full-auto, so no mechanical wear on the switching mechanism. I do however sometimes check that it is "still" in semi mode by pushing on the lock tab towards the slide, but should not be a factor as that is the default setting.

 

 

So, yeah, the argument is valid that this feature can cause more trouble than it's worth for people who don't want full-auto fun.

 

 

However, I do understand why it is included based on my observations over on Arms-Cool. Basically, the Taiwan economy is not that great (relatively speaking), and the target audience for these airsoft guns is fairly young. Which equals to not alot of money.

So the buyers see it as a "gift" or an "awesome, free, feature" to have a full auto-switch. Because they basically get a pistol and an SMG in one product. The foresight of it maybe causing more problems in the long term (from both manufacturer and buyer, but more so the latter), in regards to wear and breakage and acceidents as per above, doesn't seem to be present in their minds. So yeah, I get it, but still, mweh.

 

 

Wondering if I should glue that sucker in place.

Edited by NonEx

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A bit of loctite cant hurt if you have no interest in full auto I suppose.

 

Hmm it's not a screw selector it's more of a flick-switch under the slide.  I don't think loctite would work.  I haven't disassembled mine because there's no reason for me to do so...so I don't really know how the switch works internally other than flicking it to a certain position gives me full auto.

 

Non-Ex, my full auto switch locks into position quite solidly; I'm surprised that a drop would flip the switch to the full auto position.  Thanks for the heads up though!

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Just to add as a reference, I did try switching it to full-auto once, just to see how it worked, and my fingernail would have broken before I could budge that thing, so yeah. Seemed solid but not solid enough.

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You want stock Stark sight or RS ones?

 

For the first one, try KIC.com.tw they can source for you, and for the second one Brownells.com or MidwayUK.co.uk. Almost drop in fit, you gotta space the rear with some tape to get a tight fit.

 

Cheap or not, well, RS sight is 7 USD or there abouts from Brownells and 9 GBP from Midway for standard Glock polymer sight, hope that's cheap enough :P

 

Brownells : http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Glock-/Models-17-39-sid858.aspx#r16sid858

 

Midway UK : http://www.midwayuk.com/epages/Midway_UK.sf/en_GB/?ViewAction=Innochange_FactFinderSearch&ChannelID=10098&ObjectID=10098&query=glock+sight+rear&filterPrice_Currency=GBP%7E%7E%C2%A3&channel=products_uk&productsPerPage=50&followSearch=9857&format=XML

 

You want the 6.5mm (.256") rear which is closest to the Stark sight (also Glock factory standard sight height). I bought one size up and down just to have the option to adjust in case the aim is off. Again I don't shoot much so have not verified completely which gives best trajectory.

 

I have a 150% TM 1911 spring on my recoil guide rod and it's much nicer but obviously it affects gas efficiency.

Removed the dual recoil spring setup and just run the one 1911 150% spring and one spring cup.

Edited by NonEx

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