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Stark-Arms/VFC Glock 19

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Nope, unfortunately.

Also, got to handle my friend's version with the fixed slide gap.  It had very minimal slide to frame wobble.  I noticed that the recoil spring was very weak, similar to what a stock TM would use, and also that even with the plastic barrel, the slide return was very sluggish and would not return to battery without reracking the slide if it was ridden home.  I'm thinking this has to do with out of spec locking lugs on the barrel.

 The frame is probably the most realistic I've felt compared to WE, KJW, and Guarder G19 frames.  It had more realistic contours and the texture matched a real G19's better than WEs, which are too grippy, and KJW/Guarder which are too smooth.  

The trigger pull was pretty disappointing though, it had a nice resistance, but the sear release was just too long and mushy.  Did not get to fire it with gas/BBs unfortunately.  I'd definitely get one if I didn't already invest in so much in my steel-slided KJ/Guarder.

Edited by vilerk

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Actually I think the sticky slide is due to the hammer mechanism and possible the auto sear part rather than the barrel lugs.

 

How do you mean the locking lugs are out of spec ? :o

 

Do you mean yours stick when just racking the slide manually or when actually shooting?

 

There is a request thread on Arms-Cool for the almighty "Ghost Island" "masters" to make a steel kit for this pistol. No official response from them as of yet. But it might be coming sooner or later since it is recognized as the nicest Glock 19 on the market generally speaking.

 

Also, for whatever reason my trigger pull on my RS modded Stark 19 feels nicer than the stock one, more crisp and clean but it does have a pretty voilent snap when the shot breaks. Only thing that can really affect that is the RS trigger and modded trigger bar.

Edited by NonEx

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I don't think it's the hammer assembly as the hammer is essentially a zero hammer, and the auto sear should only be in contact with the slide/BBU when its in battery, so it shouldn't affect it on its return.  

Didn't get to shoot it.  When I racked the slide normally, as in pull it all the way back, then let go, it worked fine, but when I pulled the slide back, and slowly let it forward, it would get stuck,  I'd have to pull the slide back to get it to unlock, there was simply too much resistance to push it all the way forward.  This makes me think the barrel is either sitting too high, not tilting enough, or having too much slop that it can slide too far forward and jam the slide. 

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Right. I have that too and as long as it only happens when easing the slide forward I don't see a big problem with it, although a smoother slide-to-battery function would be desirable. A tap on the back of the slide makes it go into battery just fine though.

 

And I still think it's due to something in the hammer mechanism. But I would have to verify. I can remove my barrel and see if the sticking is still there, which if I recall correctly it is since I think I noticed this when modding my 19 for RS parts that it occured without the barrel as well.

Edited by NonEx

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Sounds like we might have two completely different problems then.  I'll try to get a closer look at my friend's G19 again and see if I can make any improvements.

Edited by vilerk

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I dunno, sounds like the same problem to me ?

 

I double checked mine and the slide still gets stuck without the barrel and recoil assembly. Try removing those from your friends pistol and see if it happens as well, which I think it probably will.

Just so you don't spend time looking at the barrel if that's not the problem.

 

Also based on where it sticks I can sort of guesstimate which parts are involved. I can take some pics and post when I get home.

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Both my G17s were really sticky when it came to returning fully in to battery with the plastic outer barrel fitted.  Fitting the metal ones helped a lot, still not perfect but it made a very considerable difference.

 

Not a major issue because it never really happened when giving the slide a proper rack or when firing.

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Maybe I've missed something but what does Match Grade version mean? SA G17 is available for +$30 on wgc. As far I can judge from the description the only diffirence is CNC Machined 6061 Aluminum Alloy Slide

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Link ?

 

Found it.

 

Hmm it's for the Glock 17 only. It sais ASIA market only and it has the full markings. So I think that's just a made up name by WGC for the CNC full markings edition of the Stark Glock 17.

 

 

Also, for the guy who wanted sights earlier, WGC is also a Stark partner. They did not have the sights in their webshop but if you e-mail them they can probably get you the stock sights if you want them.

Edited by NonEx

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From what I recall looking through the Stark line up on WGC I'd agree with NonEx, that's just what they've branded the CNC model.  You'll notice the weight on the 'Match Grade' is also greater than the other version they have listed, which tallies up.

 

I deliberately went for the non-CNC myself because I can't imagine the extra weight is in the frame which means heavier slide and slightly less gas efficiency.  Very much depends on where the individual falls on the skirmisher->collector sliding scale of course.

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The "Match Grade" comes with a steel barrel, and I guess it explains the extra weight. And you can find them at Airsoftglobal, but they are called "Strikearms" instead of "Stark-Arms" :nosleep: .

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There is no steel slide for the VFC Glocks.

 

The slide for the Match Grade or CNC version is CNCd aluminum and the outer barrel is steel.

 

Stark CO2 magazines have the huge bumber at the bottom too, kills the look.

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NonEx, if you see this, could you possibly post up a close-in shot of your modified slide lock/release lever?  Particularly with regards exactly how you modified it to fit and function.

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You rang, master?

 

It's difficult to capture in a photo really as you only need to adjust the angle and size of the top tab that interfaces with the magazine catch tab on the BB follower. I don't have any non modded RS slide stop levers at hand to compared to.

 

Take off the slide and install the RS slide stop lever in the frame. Then insert the magazine and you will see what needs to be done. Basically the angle and pointy edge of the RS slide stop part is hitting the magazine lip first. Shave off some and keep trying it until it's decently smooth. I found it didn't have to be a perfect fit and zero interference between magazine and RS slide stop, there is some wiggle room to the fit. Mine works reliably now and I took off maybe 0.5-0.75mm (?) and adjusted the angle slightly.

 

You will also need to pad the bottom of the RS slide stop lever tab because it sits too high to reliably engage the slide stop. I put a couple of layers of duct tape on the bottom of mine and superglued them in place. But perhaps 2-3 layers of a cut up credit card is better in the long run. Just don't try to bend the tab down because it's hardened steel... I tried on my first RS slide stop lever and it just snapped clean off.

 

Hope that helps.

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Quick update to my S17,

 

It now fires on full auto! Great/awful :P

 

I spoke to Armourpiercing at The Mall and he suggested that it's the trigger sear that's not engaging. I did notice that the screw holding in the BBU is extremely loose. When I tightened it it did seem to improve a bit. I'm wondering if I loctite it it'll resolve itself. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has had any issues.

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what's a good recoil spring to get? I need to replace it. stock is way too weak... reminds me of my KSC USP 45 when I first installed the Steel Slide w/o the enhanced recoil spring... It'll work, but sluggish when just racking it back manually. Shooting, it'll do just fine.

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