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ACM M1918 A2 BAR first impressions


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Hello, these are my first impressions of the M1918A2 BAR.

 

This is the ACM clone version of the VFC BAR, and I have to say It's a BEAST! :)

 

Historical and real steel reference here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M1918_Browning_Automatic_Rifle

 

Right, back to airsoft.

 

In the box, you get: BAR, one hicap mag, bipod, carry handle, battery (9.6v stick type), battery charger, a bag of BBs, an Allen key (to assemble/disassemble the carry handle) and a key to wind up the hi-cap.

 

Pic:

8388019872_5f17969056_z.jpg

 

As you can see, the manual has no manufacturer ID, except "AY", and a reference "AY-A0001". Interestingly, it's a direct copy of a VFC manual, having reference to VFC for parts and technical support...

 

It's full metal, but the stock and forearm are not wood, just plastic with a nice faux wood finish.

 

Several bits are actually steel (tested with a magnet): bipod, front sight cover, magazine. All the rest is non-magnetic metal, aluminium or some alloy.

It´s nicely finished in black, but the paint scratches easily.

Anyone who wants this to look "WW2 authentic" will likely repaint it in a "parkerized" gray colour, so no big problem :)

 

The mag is a steel shell, with M16VN type hicap internal mechanism. It was quickly converted to a lowcap, simply by changing the insides for those of a Marui VN low cap.

It is compatible with VFC mags, they just need a little push in the bottom to fit in the magwell.

 

My particular gun came a little too hot, chronoing 405-410 fps (measured with 0.2 g BBs), one spring change later and it's doing 350 fps.

 

I haven't been able to skirmish it yet, so no idea on range, or hop-up efectiveness. It shoots quite nicely, without any feeding problems so far.

 

One thing: like the original BAR, there is no semi-auto position. You have a fire selector with 3 positions: S (safe) A (Auto) and F (Full-auto?) A position is auto fire, with a slower ROF, F position is "let 'er rip!"

 

The only problem I noticed so far is the cocking handle / ejection port cover system that allows acess to the hop-up.

It opens, but won't close fully back. AFAIK, it's a generalized issue with these replicas, looks like one of the parts is badly shaped.

 

Will post when I fix this.

 

More pics:

 

8386933443_ebeb695768_z.jpg

 

8386939671_d7fa61b8bf_z.jpg

 

Pros:

 - It's a BAR!

 

Cons:

 - cocking handle problem

 - paint scratches easily

 - need to go to the gym before I can skirmish with it...

 

:)

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*snip*

 

Something like that?

 

(Excuse the cell phone picture)

 

Oh god yes! :D

 

I was thinking if the barrel was shorter but from what I know, there was some variation between different custom jobs....how much work was involved in that build?

 

 

Just thinking this, a 1911, zoot suit and daps and all the site would be missing is a Ford Model T....

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Oh god yes! :D

 

I was thinking if the barrel was shorter but from what I know, there was some variation between different custom jobs....how much work was involved in that build?

 

 

Just thinking this, a 1911, zoot suit and daps and all the site would be missing is a Ford Model T....

I used this picture as the inspiration:

http://thomasroche.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Clyde-Barrow-M1918-Browning-Automatic-Rifle-from-IMFDB-dot-org.jpg

 

But then decided to go my own way with it a little bit.  I roughly cut the barrel at its current length with the intention of chopping it even shorter (or cleaning up my cut, which would by definition shorten it).  But my first cut ended up being pretty clean, so I just cleaned it up and left it as is.

 

This took about an afternoon of my friend and I messing about with the gun.  That included learning how to disassemble it (Echo1 wasn't kind enough to provide a manual or parts diagram), tuning the gearbox, chopping the barrel, and then reassembling it.

 

The hardest part was fitting the front sight.  Since I only had hand tools available, cutting the slot in the top of the barrel for the front sight was quite challenging.

 

Now I want to bodge together a 1911 with the Hi Capa Extreme I have laying around, attach a Thompson foregrip, and find some way of attaching a Cutts compensator.

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