Been out of Airsoft for about 6 years, update me

[***Ice***]

Hi guys,

 

I've been out of airsoft for years, need some help. I know I need a UKARA form and all that jazz, I'm getting that sorted this weekend.

 

Need some updates on AEGs and internals etc.

 

When I was playing my CQB setup was: CA G36c with a mosfet, a G&P piston with perfect AOE and teeth 2&3 removed, a 12v NiMH, some 7mm bearings, bearing spring guide, a 6.03mm barrel and guarder clear rubber, 40+RPS - beautiful!

 

Sadly that gun is long sold when I got out of the game.

 

 

 

I would like another G36C for CQB, and it has to be modable to the hills, have good durability, and be a good platform for a high ROF box, I'm reading that CA do 8mm bearings and a host of other updates in their G36c which I like the sound of, however it's also EBB - which is a bit g4y, but I assume I can disable that pretty easily right?

 

I'm leaning towards that, but before I do - are there any other G36cs on the market I should be aware of and what are their capabilities?

 

Also I read that 11.1v Lipos are now the in thing instead of 12v Nimhs or Nicads - are most people on Lipos now?

 

Thanks for the help guys!

[RSM]

Pretty sure a CA36 series will be exactly as you found it internally stock as you did a few years back, it's STAR/ARES/UMAREX that do the EBB G36 line.

 

Depends what you want really, for a gut project some would say start with a JG or CYMA although the exterior qualities are somewhat wanting, S/A/U arguably have the best exteriors but it's always been the internals that let those brands down. SRC are in their own little bubble of being around but no one ever really raves about them - same with both varieties of TM G36 and KWA.

 

I'll stand to be corrected on the above however as there are members here far more knowledgeable on G36s than I.

 

11.1lipos are the 12v NiMh of the 21st century, they peak out at about 12.6v off of charge, main bonus is that you can get a 11.1v 2600mah pack in the same space as a 9.6v nimh 'mini'

[***Ice***]

CA36 it is then. By the looks of it, it is vastly different from my old one: 8mm bearings instead of 7mm bushes, metal pistonhead (which are rubbish and will be binned), completely different design of hopup, the lower and upper go together differently.

 

Thanks for the headsup on Lipos.

 

What about Mosfets, does anyone sell them, ones you can just wire in?

[loki7491]

There is now a plethora of mosfets on the market and similar designs offering similar benefits in a different way.

 

I am all about the gas at the moment so i am not up to speed on all the different mosfets out there, but there are plenty to choose from. There are also burst control units as single entities or as part of a mosfet that are programable so your selcetor settings can be bespoke.

 

Safe = safe

Semi = anything from one round to full auto

auto = anything from one round to ful auto

 

Some guys at my local like the double tap and 5 round burst set up.

[***Ice***]

I'm used to hicapping, I don't go for any sort of realism what-so-ever really, hence why I'd disable the blowback mechanism, I just go for pure performance and efficency, so burst functions are of no real use to me, but thanks for the tip anyway mate, always good to learn new things.

 

It does seem like the ethos of the sport has changed, more milsim/realsim now, geardos weren't that common when I was playing.

[Captain Leisure]

 

What about Mosfets, does anyone sell them, ones you can just wire in?

 

 

http://infectedarmory.com/product/mosfet-w-active-braking/

 

 

These guys seem well recommended and cheaper than the UK options. They have a fitting guide which looks dead simple,

[Baddbaz]

The tm recoil g36 is the benchmark for g36 performance out of the box , but it is pretty expensive as well . Two versions are available one with optics one without . The optics are the best of all the g36 optics available ootb

[ikliiu]

CA is still probably your best bet for externals, but ARES has good externals as well. However, ARES internals aren't too good. I'd recommend the new JG's, they come with a nylon fiber body and have good internals as well

[Aod]

Hi guys,

 

I've been out of airsoft for years, need some help. I know I need a UKARA form and all that jazz, I'm getting that sorted this weekend.

 

Need some updates on AEGs and internals etc.

 

When I was playing my CQB setup was: CA G36c with a mosfet, a G&P piston with perfect AOE and teeth 2&3 removed, a 12v NiMH, some 7mm bearings, bearing spring guide, a 6.03mm barrel and guarder clear rubber, 40+RPS - beautiful!

 

Sadly that gun is long sold when I got out of the game.

 

 

 

I would like another G36C for CQB, and it has to be modable to the hills, have good durability, and be a good platform for a high ROF box, I'm reading that CA do 8mm bearings and a host of other updates in their G36c which I like the sound of, however it's also EBB - which is a bit g4y, but I assume I can disable that pretty easily right?

 

I'm leaning towards that, but before I do - are there any other G36cs on the market I should be aware of and what are their capabilities?

 

Also I read that 11.1v Lipos are now the in thing instead of 12v Nimhs or Nicads - are most people on Lipos now?

 

Thanks for the help guys!

Current top of the line tech is solid steel bushings, RiotSC Siegetek Concepts DSG gearset, swiss-cheesed nylon piston with full-steel teeth, POM/Nylon pistonhead, no piston bearings (as light a piston assembly as possible). Shave the teeth of the piston down for ultra fast cycle-rate.

Sorbothane-rubber cushion on the cylinderhead absorbs almost all the impact force, reducing noise and wear on the gearbox casing, making up for the required M160 spring.

Neodymium-magnet motors with ~22TPA armatures deliver earthshattering torque, trigger response and efficiency. Black Talon Concepts Chimera Mk.II Ver.3 computerised MOSFET (if you want functions) or IRLB3034-based simple 'FETs, you can buy or make yourself.

 

Combined with a very high discharge 11.1v LiPo and the right ratio gears, you should be hitting 65 rounds per second reliably. It's possible to go faster but even the stoutest midcaps won't feed faster than that.

 

The tm recoil g36 is the benchmark for g36 performance out of the box , but it is pretty expensive as well . Two versions are available one with optics one without . The optics are the best of all the g36 optics available ootb

What!? Rubbish! The TM Recoil G36 is as fragile as a glass spiderweb, and the optic is merely "acceptable". The Chinaclone G36 optics (like the JG ones) are the best on the market, better than the real-steel Zeiss optics.

It's the Classic Army G36 optics that are absolutely appalling.

[Mike_West]

The Chinaclone G36 optics (like the JG ones) are the best on the market, better than the real-steel Zeiss optics.

Please tell me you're kidding, those guys are THAT good?! I could bet on their gearboxes, mostly thanks to the Chinese way of overcompensating poor compression with stupidly stiff springs, but I hardly trust their optics.

[Baddbaz]

What!? Rubbish! The TM Recoil G36 is as fragile as a glass spiderweb, and the optic is merely "acceptable". The Chinaclone G36 optics (like the JG ones) are the best on the market, better than the real-steel Zeiss optics.

It's the Classic Army G36 optics that are absolutely appalling.

Aod . I said out of the box performance . Meaning range , accuracy etc with no mods .

If you are building a gun the jg is a no brainer . Due to its cost . ( one of the cheapest bang for buck guns around )

I agree to disagree on the optics . The tm has the best eye releif by far . The ca etc . You have to have your eye touching the optics to be able to see anything at all . Best bet is to buy a railed version and fit your own optics .

[Aod]

Aod . I said out of the box performance . Meaning range , accuracy etc with no mods .

If you are building a gun the jg is a no brainer . Due to its cost . ( one of the cheapest bang for buck guns around )

I agree to disagree on the optics . The tm has the best eye releif by far . The ca etc . You have to have your eye touching the optics to be able to see anything at all . Best bet is to buy a railed version and fit your own optics .

 

On the G36 optic you are supposed to place your eye right up against the optic, that's why they have a big comfy rubber buffer around them. Eye relief is not the sole determinant of optic quality, otherwise pistol scopes would be the best optics in existence.

 

The out of the box performance of the TM Recoil G36 is acceptable, but nothing more. Trigger response and rate of fire are moderate, and cannot be easily increased due to the recoil mechanism.

The Classic Army G36s offer the best out the box performance as far as I'm concerned. The TM only wins on range due to it's exceptional Hop Rubber, a mod that can be performed to A Classic Army in under ten minutes.

 

Please tell me you're kidding, those guys are THAT good?! I could bet on their gearboxes, mostly thanks to the Chinese way of overcompensating poor compression with stupidly stiff springs, but I hardly trust their optics.

The real Zeiss optic hardly sets the bar very high, but in terms of clarity, resolution, brightness and field of view, the China-optic trounced the Zeiss optic every time. Given how poor the Zeiss optic is, I'm not at all surprised that the Bundeswehr has changed all their inventory to rail-mount aftermarket optics.

The China optic has uniform brightness from edge to edge, no vignetting and no chromatic aberration. The parallax is set so that the reticle is in focus when the sight picture is too, which is one of the most important things. The Reticle iteslf is clear and well defined, appearing sharp in the sight picture, but more importantly, the reticle is the right size, it's not too fine (like the Marui) or too thick (like the CA), and unlike the Zeiss, you can see the far parts of the Stadiametric rangefinder without repositioning your eye to the optic.

[ikliiu]

The ARES has outstanding out of the box performance as well, however it's just not as reliable as the CA.

[White_Death1]

For a good G36,I'd go for a CA or old Marui Proline.  Recoil shock is nice and all,but the proline is far more reliable. My site has a few CA G36Cs as rentals and I've found them to be pretty good. I'd say TM and CA are still king of the hill G36 wise,sturdiest guns around IMO. If you've already had good experiences with the CA i'd say go for it again since they seemed to have beefed up their gearboxes recently.

 

If you're on a budget,the JG G36 is really good. Pretty strong,although the stock hinge isn't amazing. Internals on the JG are not put together very well(Poor Angle of engagement,shimming,snot grease and poor compression) but are very tough,even better with sometinkering. I wouldn't trust th optical glass though,It seems very fragile and a good few have been shot out in my experiences,I'm not going to comment on clarity since my eyesight is really weird when it comes to optics. Chinese optics have a long way to go,but I may be spoiled by the nice Belorussian ones I have on my air rifle.

 

It's hard to *fruitcage* up a G36 in airsoft. A V3 in a nylon/ABS brick will be sturdy as hell unless you try really hard to balls up. Any old one will do.

[hawaiianjuggernaut]

My 2 cents,

 

 

Go with a use marui g36. Theyre great and hard to go wrong with

 

There is a relatively new upgrade brand on the market, Lonex. They have fairly priced parts that are as durable as tank armor, would definitely suggest looking into their parts for your upgrade projects.