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spetsnazdave87

Tokyo Marui M870 Tactical Gas Tri-shot Shotgun- picture, text and video review

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So, It seems like a lot of people have figured out how to disassemble this by now. Can someone explain how to take off the barrel once the internals are taken out of the body? Ive been trying to figure this out without breaking it but no luck so far.

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In canada they have already banned the use / sale of the kits/ valves used to fill Airsoft mags / tanks with propane .

 

 

 

LOL wut? The original and first propane adapter was and IS made in canada.

 

Airsoft Innovations is not going away. 

 

Where did you get this information?

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LOL wut? The original and first propane adapter was and IS made in canada.

 

Airsoft Innovations is not going away. 

 

Where did you get this information?

 

Maybe he's in a different Canada from you are?

 

you know, Quebec?  :rofl:

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I don't even care if this is off topic.. but the Surefire DSF-870 has just been released.... I heard real steel forend doesn't fit without a little bit of modding, but I don't care, I'm buying one. 600 / 200 lumen switch? Yes please, people will take their hit just from the shine.

 

http://www.surefire.com/dsf-870-shotgun-forend.html

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Just remember if you bork it up, you're stuck with a $375 paperweight lol.

 

They always fit, even if it means I have to CNC a bespoke action bar assembly.. every real steel light I own always end up fitting.. :) 

 

 

Or just attach some sort of rail for mounting an 800+ lumen nite core torch :)

 

Eww no. 

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So about maintenance, which parts should be lubed? Manual doesnt help much in this regard. Id rather not spray oil into the shells as the bbs will spread the oil onto the hop up.

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So, It seems like a lot of people have figured out how to disassemble this by now. Can someone explain how to take off the barrel once the internals are taken out of the body? Ive been trying to figure this out without breaking it but no luck so far.

 

You have to remove the cocking arms and foregrip first (remove the bracket from the front of the foregrip that holds the shell tube and outer barrel together to do this), then there are screws on the underside of the shelltube which allow you to take the shelltube off, and expose the bracket that holds the outer barrel in place.

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Anyone else's front sight ramp is completely fruitcaged? The thread on the pathetic protruding insert is completely messed up... I don't even know how, I don't remember screwing it too tightly or anything... I think I'll have to file the whole damn thing off and stick a real steel front sight ramp on it... argh. What should I use? Blow torch solder vs JB weld?  

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Anyone else's front sight ramp is completely fruitcaged? The thread on the pathetic protruding insert is completely messed up... I don't even know how, I don't remember screwing it too tightly or anything... I think I'll have to file the whole damn thing off and stick a real steel front sight ramp on it... argh. What should I use? Blow torch solder vs JB weld?  

Well, i was gonna say JB weld, as any blowtorching might ruin the finishing, but i dunno what colour the chemical epoxy of JB is like.

 

I think whatever is easier for a spray paint to hold on, cos nothing worse then seeing an off colour weld on your baby when you out skirmishing 

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Anyone else's front sight ramp is completely fruitcaged? The thread on the pathetic protruding insert is completely messed up... I don't even know how, I don't remember screwing it too tightly or anything... I think I'll have to file the whole damn thing off and stick a real steel front sight ramp on it... argh. What should I use? Blow torch solder vs JB weld?  

 

I replaced the screw that held on my front sight for a couple of reasons. One is that the metric screw they used very sightly tapers on the threads...this reduces the holding power of the screw. Secondly, the screw they used is about 1/2mm shorter than it should which also reduces the holding power of the screw.

 

I cut down a screw that allowed for that extra 1/2mm to thread into the outer barrel screw hole. Also, the screw I used was straight so it bit more into the threads of the screw hole.

 

Another thing...blue loctite :P

Edited by sacairsoftsn00py

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Well, i was gonna say JB weld, as any blowtorching might ruin the finishing

 

Ah thanks, I was thinking that too, but considering the real steel sight ramp I've got is actually raw steel finish, I'd have to spray it anyway. I was more worry about melding the cheese metal Marui uses when I blow torch it.. but if I use regular solder which melts at around 180c I thought it should be fine... but I have never soldered steel to aluminium / pot metal before... will it even work? 

Edited by blobface

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I replaced the screw that held on my front sight for a couple of reasons.

 

Yeah sadly I did that too, but the thread's completely gone all the way down to the end, perhaps mine was just a lemon and wasn't tapped very well to begin with :( 

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Ah thanks, I was thinking that too, but considering the real steel sight ramp I've got is actually raw steel finish, I'd have to spray it anyway. I was more worry about melding the cheese metal Marui uses when I blow torch it.. but if I use regular solder which melts at around 180c I thought it should be fine... but I have never soldered steel to aluminium / pot metal before... will it even work? 

 

Easy answer? Yes.

 

Long Answer? No. 

 

You can "braze" them together, but considering the quality of the material, the temperature and added use of additional specific flux to get aluminium and steel to work together so that it'll bond to your solder?

 

Don't bother. just go with the JB Weld, it'll save you a lot of headaches.

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Ah thanks for the info, so I'm pretty much guaranteed a failure if I smear normal soldering flux between the sight and the barrel, blow torch the material with the flux then apply normal soldering wire when it's hot? I know JB weld would likely to work perfectly fine... but I'm just being... annoying, also I'll have to option to remove it one day should I so choose just by applying heat. 

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Is there no way you can tap into the outer barrel and screw the sights on?

 

Not really, as the wall of the shotgun is quite thin, Marui had to resort to using an insert to provide extra threads (which gave up on me anyway) and since the real steel shotgun sight ramp is a solid block, I wouldn't want to have to remake an insert, drill the space for the ramp to go around the insert and then re-tap it only to risk the thread between the barrel wall and the new insert to give up...  

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Ah thanks for the info, so I'm pretty much guaranteed a failure if I smear normal soldering flux between the sight and the barrel, blow torch the material with the flux then apply normal soldering wire when it's hot? I know JB weld would likely to work perfectly fine... but I'm just being... annoying, also I'll have to option to remove it one day should I so choose just by applying heat. 

 

Unfortunately yes, that's because the aluminium will slag before the pot metal/steel and become unrecoverable to join unless you have the right flux.

 

Of course if you do go ahead with just the normal flame and flux you can still "hold" them together, but it'll be a temporary one when both materials aren't bonded to the solder.

Because all the strength will be carried by your solder and eventually when get a bang or drop it hard or/and by the constant racking and firing, it'll crack cleanly. 

Edited by onizuka-gto

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2qx02e8.jpg

So anyone used green gas only and had any trouble? Im not a gas expert but shouldn't the gas leak out first instead of exploding if it would keep deforming(if it continues at all)? If you remove the back(after taking out the 3 pins) you can see that the sealing rubber is located on the sides people mentioned changing shape.

Edited by Zereck

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2qx02e8.jpg

So anyone used green gas only and had any trouble? Im not a gas expert but shouldn't the gas leak out first instead of exploding if it would keep deforming(if it continues at all)? If you remove the back(after taking out the 3 pins) you can see that the sealing rubber is located on the sides people mentioned changing shape.

 

 

NICE! Finally we can see inside! Thanks Zereck! 

 

I can see what you mean, the silicone rubber gasket is located on the inlet of the shell, in theory this should allow excess gas to leak if the container expands due to the pressure.

 

But actually it might not, i can understand now why they mentioned not to use this magazine above 40 degrees C. 

 

Now this is only my personal theory, but the reason they put the gasket on the inlet, is because they are relying on the principle of cold welding between the gas reservoir lid and the shell to create a tight gas-proof joint.

(The principle of cold temp. will contract the metal and that two same material i.e. shell and lid. with smooth contacting surface will bond tightly together) this explains the three pin design and the deep seated lid well.

 

The gasket is merely there to take the slack when the magazine has warmed up which will loosen the metal cold seal between the deep seated lid and shell, but as long as the gas is kept expanding i.e. being used, the temp. will be kept within tolerances and the cold metal seal will hold, hence the need of only three pins rather than bolts.

 

However If the shell of the body gets too warm, (i.e. above 40c) the expansion of the shell will break the cold metal joint, making the gasket the last line of defence. Which isn't much and will rapidly fail under the pressure of the gas, causing catastrophic failure, probably around the area at the top of the shell and the lid, with the three pin design the lid won't fly off, and i'm pretty sure it won't explode, but it will crack your stock and you will feel the pop if this happens while in your shotgun.

 

Now the question isn't that it will go at 40C, my question is that a conservative figure for hfc34-something? 

 

Under green gas, we might be looking at a number lower than that, maybe in the 35-38C region? 

 

Well, i'll know this weekend, i'll be out skirmishing this saturday, although its autumn here in HK, the temp. outside can still reach the 30C's in direct sun light, so lets see how my gas reservoir cope with green gas? :D 

 

 

 

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