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SERPA type holster to fit WE Hi-Capa 4.3


spamofthejungle

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Hey all, I'm in the market for a SERPA 'type' holster to fit a WE Hi-Capa 4.3. I'm having trouble finding anything that isn't a speed shooting type holster with poor retention. I'm looking for a rigid holster with positive retention that can be mounted either to MOLLE, a SERPA type rigid leg platform or both. I've had enough of fabric holsters flapping about on my leg and I'm looking for something nice and solid to run either on my chest or leg. Of course I'm not wanting to spend a fortune, wouldn't want to make this easy for you guys, so any ideas chaps?

 

Cheers, Sam.

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Modify the holster. His has a couple of slots in it where you can see the rails from the outside of the holster, but it's rock solid. Also, you can't tell he has filed the trigger guard because he did such a good job of it that it looks natural.

 

You're gonna really struggle to find a military style holster for what is essentially a civilian sport pistol.

 

 

 

Your other option is custom Kydex, plenty of retention by friction there, and they can look really good if they're done right.

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Not sure if this works for the OP, recently the distributor of Safariland in my region released bunch of cheap-ish duty holsters, namely the model "5199-xxx-xxx", look for the model for STI Operator and it fits a Hi-Capa 4.3 but the holster is in a 5 inch size.

 

The holster is a level 1 retention type, personally prefer a level 2 but works fine for me.

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I'm not sure what you mean by dust cover mate but I've had a look at my mates IMI level 2 type holster and it seems to only need minimal modification to fit a 4.3 so I've ordered one, direct from Israel no less =D. I'll take pictures as I modify it and if it turns out OK I'll do a step by step for the tech section as I'm sure there are plenty of Hi-Capa users who would like this type of holster.

Cheers all.

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Despite one of them having a Tanio Koba grip, neither of my TM 4.3s fit the 1911 Serpa I have. The front of the frames (the dust cover) extend further than the frame of a 1911. Regular 5.1 Hi-capas share the same front end as a 1911 but the square trigger guards still requires modifications to the holster. Both my 5.1 Hi-Capas are fitted with Tanio Koba frames which have rounded trigger guards like a 1911 and both guns fit with minimal holster mods - the triggers guards are thicker than 1911 ones so some work is required. My WE Hi-Capa has the long dust cover from and doesn't fit a regular Serpa. I have a cut down 1911 Serpa (a sportster version rather than the CQC version) for a Detonics and the 4.1s fit that but the slides and frames stick out the bottom.

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For info, I ran my TM Hi-Capa 4.3 in a Blackhawk Serpa G17 holster for 2 years. Although the pistol didn't "lock" into place as such, the friction of just wedging the pistol inside the holster was more than enough to keep it nice and snug. Never once did it ever come loose, fall out, or cause me any issues, whilst running and crawling around woodland. The only slight downside was that drawing it from the holster required a fair bit more pull to achieve.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am probably quite late to this, and what I'm proposing could probably go into it's own separate topic, but here it goes!

If you want to make a custom formed Kydex holster you'll need the following:

 

-Kydex Sheets(.080 guage should be a good size, but you can go thicker or even thinner I suppose).

-Foam(to form the Kydex sheets).

-Rivet Tool.

-Rivets.

-Whatever type of mount you want.

-Oven.

-Hi-Capa(or whatever else you might want to make a holster/sheath for).

 

 

Besides the gun and the oven, the rest is quite affordable. SERPA's usually go for pretty low prices anyway, so perhaps your total cost for all of the other items will be equal or a bit more than a SERPA, it could even be less depending on what types of things you want for it. Some people will have certain tools and materials on hand already, like a riveting tool and rivets, others may not... It would also help greatly to have blocks of wood or something else that sturdy and some appropriate sized clamps to evenly distribute pressure on the foam and therefore better shape the Kydex. You can find Kydex in a few different base colors, of course, you can always paint it, and with quality paint, it should stick very well to the Kydex.

 

What's fantastic about using Kydex is that you will never have to search around for ages trying to find the appropriate model of a holster/sheath, especially when you may have a gun with quite specific and unique physical features. Of course, you'll need the material to make your holster, and you'll need some time to do it. A wonderful aspect about using Kydex is that you'll be able to make it perfectly for yourself, or as far as your imagination goes. There are thousands of pictures online of various Kydex products that you can draw inspiration from. 

 

Besides that, my favorite type of readily available holster is a SafariLand holster. I have the 6004 series(on a UBL mount) for a Glock21 with an Insight Streamlight M3. I keep my Glock18c with the M3 in the holster, it's all around a lovely holster! I also have a SERPA(with a MOLLE mount, belt paddle mount, and regular belt mount) for my Glock, but I cannot use the M3 with the SERPA. Considering the two holsters having different features and such, I prefer my SafariLand much more. I have nothing to complain about with my SERPA, it's simply not the type of holster I prefer. Of course, there are many holster designs on the market and I have not tried anything close to even a quarter of them.

 

Finally, if anyone wants more information about Kydex molding, feel free to ask. I wont claim to be an expert, and I have learned what I know from an experienced friend of mine and from what I've gathered online. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

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