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Looking for help building my ideal M4.... Tech Question!


FCS

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Morning all,

 

I am looking to slimline my load-out to just an M4, MP7 and a Pistol. The MP7 & Pistol are pretty much sorted, but I want to get myself a solid M4 Platform; and I've never found the exact one that suits me.

 

My perfect M4 has the following features:

 

  • Programmable & Active Breaking Mosfet (Safe, Semi & 3rd Burst Selector) - ASCU, BTC Chimera?
  • Able to run a stock tube 7.4v Lipo
  • Good accuracy & range with 0.25g BB (Tightbore, hop buckings/chambers?)
  • Snappy Trigger Response
  • Good trademarks
  • Short-Medium Length
  • Highly reliable
  • Able to accept Pmags or Emags without modification.

This RIF will be used mainly for CQB gaming, but also for the odd woodland/longer distance games. Therefore range and accuracy is important, as is the snappy trigger response. I know I'm going to be best with a mosfet fitted, but unsure which one? And unsure if it's worth correcting AOE and putting a sorbo pad into it. Rate of fire is not important, as I'll be using the single fire or 3rd burst features, not fully auto.

 

I mainly play CQB, where I'll play all day with no more than 1000 rounds.

 

Budget is under £500 including mags (4 x 120rd P/Emags) and any other accessories I can get for the price.

 

So, what are your suggestions?

 

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Asg defender ( Lonex version ) ticks most of the boxes .

Lonex internals , Lewis trades , very good battery capacity in the standard stock / buffer tube .

Reinforced Lonex gearbox as standard , top notch internals , solid externals .

All it needs is a btc chimera and a Titan a2 motor and you have a top performing gun. .

Can be picked up new from 260 quid new which leaves loads of budget for the MOSFET and motor improvements ..

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Realsword type 97b ticks all the boxes. Accurate, good range, takes stick lipo and small brick lipo with the removal of a small stick. Reliable as it gets. But it has a love or hate kind of exteriorDISREGARD THIS POST. Ddidnt notice we were talking about m4s. Excuse me. Mods please delete

+ 1 for the 97/97b guns . The best externals par non . Internals are top notch as well .
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Hmm...although your brief is relatively comprehensive, there are still some points to be considered. Are you looking for a rail kit, or standard handguard? And what do you mean by "good trademarks"? Do you mean realistic i.e. trademarks of an actual firearms manufacturer, or simply something that doesn't look toy-like? G&G/TopTech's trademarks are nicely engraved, and are not dissimilar from the styling of many RS manufacturers, though ultimately are not 'real'...but they're properly engraved as opposed to white screen printing. In a similar vein King Arms replicas, especially their M&P models, have superb Smith & Wesson trademarks engraved in...just depends on what you're looking for.

 

Trades are not really an issue for me, and if they were I'd likely just buy a receiver with the trademarks I was looking for.

 

Internally I'd be using a lonex shell, SHS 13:1 gears, SHS Neodymium magnet motor, lonex red piston, lonex silent piston head & cylinder head (I've found that on most guns this corrects the AoE pretty well as well as quieting down the rapport of the rifle), bearing spring guide, BTC Spectre, sector chip, & lonex air nozzle. That's circa €250-280, depending on where you do your shopping. I'm partial to the Madbull 3-in-1 hop up chamber, so I would use that, but that's not for everyone. Similarly I'd be using Madbull 6.03mm Black Python barrel, or Prometheus 6.03, depending on my mood at the time, pairing with either a G&G Green, Prometheus Purple, or an R-Hop.

 

If I was going with a rail kit, I'd likely go with one of the Madbull ones, as I have always liked 'em - something like the Spike BAR, or Daniel Defense LITE. Receiver would depend on the rail kit - if it's one that relies on the barrel lock to sit flush, I'd be using a madbull upper receiver just to be sure...yeah you can shim the barrel lock, but then you've got a gap in what should at least appear to be monolithic. Rail kits are circa €100, and receiver is between €90 - 120, depending on preference. Outer barrel of your choosing (i.e. length) is circa €30, and inner barrel & hop assembly is in the region of €65-120 again depending on preference.

 

Aftermarket (read: more ergonomic) pistol grips are normally €25+, so provided your tastes aren't too exotic, you'll find something comfortable in the hand and in the wallet. Stock wise I would go with the Magpul MOE CTR...always loved the look, feel and operation of that. You can pick up a high quality clone for buttons (I think mine cost €12). All you need is a stock tube :)

 

That kind of build puts you in the €440-ish realms, depending on what exactly you want to go with, though please remember that there are other little bits to buy if not using a donor gun (trigger, bearings/bushings, spring, dust cover, mag release, fire selector etc). You can of course do it very cheaply...but remember that if you cheap out on certain parts you likely will not be as happy with the end result. In sterling, the above is circa £370, so you still have plenty of room given your budget. And of course, there are cheaper ways of doing things. If you do as Baddbaz suggests and go with the ASG defender, you get a lot of what you're looking for, without paying full whack for each piece. Just about being clever with how you buy :)

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To deviate the topic slightly, I currently have a G&G Top Tech T-418 (Gen2 Model) that I do quite like, but don't like the fact I'm unable to run Emags without quite a bit of modification.

 

If I decided to buy 4 emags and just modify them, what would you do to the gearbox whilst fitting a mosfet?

 

If I were to keep the G&G, I would do the following:

 

Replace stock with CTR (Big fan of the ergonomics)

Install Sorbo Pad & Correct AOE

Install Mosfet, either ASCU or a BTC (Which is best?)

 

Would you change the standard G&G Hop chamber, or would you leave it with the original plastic chamber/green rubber? Is the general consensus that the green G&G rubbers are pretty good, or am I likely to get better results from a different rubber?

 

Thanks all!

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