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GHK GBB AK Discussion Thread

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I don't speak Russian so its hard to tell if that'll work or not :)

But it does look like a folding stock adaptor, just a neater version than the Hephaestus, as the joint is smaller.

 

1) Unfortunatelly if you have a folding stock AK then the only option is the Hephaestus folding one. I didn't know either that its easier to get M4 style buffer tube on the full stock AKs. :P Tough there are 1 or 2 folding stock adapters around but they are hard to get. I installed a real steel CAA on my AK-105 but it required dremeling and it is still not as good as it should be.

 

2) The only difference between the two are the barrel length(and ofc the front sight/gas tube)

 

3) The first thing that brokes in the AKs are usually the sears(the full auto part exactly) but they are easy to switch if you know what you are doing. Also file the mag lips till its easy to load the BBs(ofc not to the point they fell out) or your hop-up chamber might get damaged.

 

Basic disassemble is easy. Remove the top cover, take out the recoil spring, take out the buffer, then pull out the bolt. To take the barrel out you simply take the two screws out on the top of the hop-up then pull/push the front part out(a flat headed srewdriver helps) and you can take the adjusting wheel and the nub out(its small so watch it). Finally pull the chamber itself of off the barrel/hop-up rubber(you should push the whole barrel inside the gun to reach it easier) and again watch for the barrel lock part it falls off easily. After you take off the rubber you can push the barrel out to the front.

While I haven't done a full disassembly of the FCG I did switch the sear out for a steel one. Easiest way is: take the E-clip on the left side of the pin -inside the gun- then slowly start pushing the pin out with a punch but stop when the pin is only holding the left part of the trigger and the left spring. Then pull the punch until it holds the right side similary as the pin the left. This way you can simply take out the sear and replace it(just watch for the small spring the sear is placed on) and you can just push the pin back entirely and put the E-clip back. I thing Nugentgl has a video of taking the FCG apart.

 

Thanks for that - I need to do a full disassemble, as its a used gun, I like to give it a really thorough internal clean. Given the cheap price of internal parts, I may just replace the sear and firing pin straight away. The firing pin is bare silver where it hits the mag, sear LOOKS fine to me, the only other wear I can see is on the hammer, and the standard wear on the underside of the bolt (but I don't think that is something that needs replacing).

 

 

The only other small issue I've noticed, is that the return of the nozzle isn't very strong, so it never pulls all the way back into the bolt, unless I push it back by hand. Stronger spring, or lube needed?

 

Thanks

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Can anyone yell me how to take off the selector? Or at least how to tighten it? The part that connects on the inside is a little loose so its not moving off the auto sear when its in semi. It doesnt seem worn at all, just loose.

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Can anyone yell me how to take off the selector? Or at least how to tighten it? The part that connects on the inside is a little loose so its not moving off the auto sear when its in semi. It doesnt seem worn at all, just loose.

 

The selector and the selector lever are held together with a screw (sitting on top of the selector lever) that looks more like a rivet. The screw doesn't have a notch, so you're going to have to use something like pliers or a spanner to grab it in order to get it off. The actual selector is held inside the receiver via a C-clip sitting on the right side (the side the lever is mounted) which you can simply push out using a screw driver or pliers. 

 

If your selector doesn't move properly with the selector lever and thus fails to move off the disconnector, that's most likely caused by the lever not sitting correctly on the selector due to a loose screw. Just take off the screw as described, align the lever until it latches on the selector (which has a small bump the shape of the hole in the lever) and tighten the screw again. 

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Put the loader in the front of the lips and press one of your fingers in the top-back and press. It will load, although may hurt your finger a little.

I seem to be able to load them in from the top easiest

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Im strongly thinking about picking up the GHK AKM soon-ish. Put off by the WE, not sure something just seemed off and KWAs bolt stop feature put me off that + no wood version.

 

I've read this and the guide below hows everyones AK holding up and would you suggest it?

 

Biggest concern I've read with the GHK is the hop unit. Most seem to recommend the A+ kit?

 

Finally anyone got one for sale :D

Edited by bankz5152

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Just buy it....

 

I prefer the stock hop, if you cut the guide wings of the nozle it will not brake and pretty accurate for my, btw I put an AEG hop nub in mine.

I built in one A+ chamber in an other rifle, and it is awfull... there is at least 1mm space between the hopup and the reciver where it can womble... Lost almost 100 fps because of this issue, it was easy to fix with an O ring between the chamber and the rec, but it sould not happen with an "upgrade" part... The other problem is the A+ nub is a small ball :o Yes it is... Like it's the early '00... 

So the tension on the rubber and the bb is a point like what is definitly not good.

And last but not least its a bit hard to adjust trough the screw on the opper side when the bolt is in the rifle.

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Two of my magazines just started to have their FPS jump around. In both cases the gas router was faulty by not having good engagement with the nozzle's router. What causes this and can it be avoided?

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Err... when there's a will... there's a way...but considering the current folding stock and rear trunion is rivoted in.. the short answer I think is no... long answer is... definitely no. 

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