marvk Posted November 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 Well, the internal mechanism is probably the most time consuming part and the same restrictions apply as they do for whole guns. Don't get me wrong, it's not that I would not want to do this kind of stuff and share more than pictures. I legally can not do it. What I can do is provide the 3D models of my mechanism, so that those who want to can replicate it. paranoiddroid, do you care to share your designs? The mechanism here is precisely tailored to the space available in the G11, it probably would need to be altered if you want to use it in a differently shaped gun body. Link to post Share on other sites
paranoiddroid Posted November 27, 2014 Report Share Posted November 27, 2014 Most of mine are sketches at the moment but basically I was thinking of my 1919 project or the m2. Basically using 2 big boxy guns that will give me allot of space to work with. and then looking at making the mech fit other bodies and/or transplanting to other roles. Link to post Share on other sites
famidesu Posted November 27, 2014 Report Share Posted November 27, 2014 Excellent! Thanks for all the tips regarding CNC machines. Can't wait to see more of this build! Link to post Share on other sites
marvk Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Yeah, into a M2 or 1919 it would probably fit Ok, small update on sunday as promised. The main parts of the mechanism, excluding the 3-round burst, are nearly done. Just the fire selector cylinder is still missing. The parts seem to work together, but there is still some work to do regarding shaping some edges to allow a smooth operation. the pictures show the open trigger system an the freshly made block in the upper left corner of the first picture. this one was added after discovering that there is a lot of force between the components requiring another fixation point at the front. The last two pictures show the hammer and trigger in the released and cocked position. Link to post Share on other sites
Murdoc Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 This is a lathe "inside" knife no??? Does it work well as milling head? No resonance? Ohhhhh, I see, it's moving around, OK than! And really nice build!!! Link to post Share on other sites
marvk Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Hi Murdoc, yes it kind of is a boring bar, if that is what you are referring to. I already used it in the tail stock of my lathe. the whole thing it looks like this: normally it is used to bore out holes to a bigger diameter but if you turn the "sharp" side of the tool so that it faces the axis it rotates around you can shapes which are round on the outside if you reverse your machine to rotate counter clockwise. The vibration is an issue with this tool, but you can vary the cutting depths and rpm so that it doesn't vibrate too much or even hits an harmonic of the machine. On the picture below the rotational axis is marked with the blue arrow and the rotation of the tool marked with the read one. the yellow one, well thats to make the nub as long as you want it to be cheers marv Link to post Share on other sites
DEVILHUNTER Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Hi marvk, be carefull if you use the boring head runing the machine CCW. Since the boring head is screwed to the taper arbour, it can unscrew and fall. Link to post Share on other sites
marvk Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Hi DEVILHUNTER, thanks for the advice. I did not really think about this while doing it. Do you think that the forces applied by the cutting process are big enough to overcome the friction in the morse taper even though it is secured via the screw? well in any case, I know now to regularly check if it is still securely tightened if I use the ccw direction again! Link to post Share on other sites
DEVILHUNTER Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 The morse taper is not problem since you have the drawbar on it. What can get unscrew is the boring head to the arbour. This is the screw I'm talking about (on an ISO taper): http://www.millerstooling.com.au/cmsimages/arbor019.jpg If you take small pases and check after each one, you won't have problem, but roughting too much or the chatering of an uncontinuous cut can unscrew it. Link to post Share on other sites
Pkekyo-Nor Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Holy jumping *fruitcage* shitballs.I have no idea how this thing is supposed to work, but I'm in love with this ridiculous contraption of yours you're building.Can't wait to see the end result! Link to post Share on other sites
mezurashii Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Thats a beautiful piece you've got there! I cant wait to hear more about this project. Link to post Share on other sites
marvk Posted December 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 Sorry for the lack of updates recently, getting the mechanism to work properly is a real PITA atm so I take things slowly there. Also because its Christmas and really cold in my workshop, no heating in the garage :-/ Regardless of the delay I am already working on the next project. I'm still using sketchup as the autocad inventor is very inflexible and at this early stage the model still changes a lot. Just to give you a hint: Anyway, merry Christmas! I hope to get going again between Christmas and new year and post some updates Link to post Share on other sites
mezurashii Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 Looks like an interesting new project, if you need any help with the CAD let me know, I know Solidworks and Inventor so I may be able to help you if you have any questions. Link to post Share on other sites
swatti Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 H&K made a handful of dummy guns out of real materials and with realistic field strip etc for demo-purposes. I fought hard to get one of those but the eBay seller went MIA and never returned. Does someone here have CADs of the externals? I'd be willing to pay for those if they are modifiable to accept a AEG gearbox as 9 months from 12 GBB guns don't work here. I have limited access to a metal-shop but a 3d printing company settled in nearby and is able to print metals soon. I should be able to modify the CADs myself if the externals are in order. Link to post Share on other sites
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