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kagami

Tokyo Marui HK45

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Do the high flow valves actually worth upgrading to? I always heard mixed results about them.

Edited by Zereck

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I have never seen anywhere any empirical evidence, based on scientific testing, that so-called hi-flow valves increase in any way the amount of gas discharged from the magazine per shot, nor that this supposed effect results in a high fps.

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what stuey said, if you look at the diagram the amount of gas can be controlled by rotating the valve

 

I tried to look up a review on one of these since common sense says you'd want to screw it in all the way until there's no movement but backing off on it would mean its not completely secure...

 

sounds interesting though.

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I think they'll be fine, you need like 1/2 a turn for the full range of adjustment and on all of my KWA and TM mags the output valves have never been particularly tight and they're never an issue when it comes to sealing.

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Do the high flow valves actually worth upgrading to? I always heard mixed results about them.

 

Only If you have trouble to move back a metal slide. (Un)fortunatly only had this issue with my ksc mk23/hk45, none of my marui.

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Why?

 

A stiffer hammer spring will make the hammer drop fractionally faster, but I don't see how the valve knocker is going to open the valve either more or longer than will a regular hammer drop.  Actually the spring in the rocket valve seems to me to have more to do with fps and strength of recoil.  A stiffer hammer spring also makes it more difficult for the slide on its rearward journey during recoil, so it can affect the overall cycling action.

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Well I knew that stiffer hammer spring increases FPS and I assumed more gas flow because of it, but then again Im not that knowledgeable about GBB pistols.

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pahypena.jpg

 

Blackhawk serpa holster for the h&k p30 works. probably up to a 2mm in and out play for the tm hk45 but the pistol is securely in place. Yes, the tip of the hk45 sticks out....

 

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

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I tried to look up a review on one of these since common sense says you'd want to screw it in all the way until there's no movement but backing off on it would mean its not completely secure...

You should only need to tighten the valve until you can feel the o-rings are starting to compress against the magazine body itself, then another 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn, that's how I always do them.

 

I think they'll be fine, you need like 1/2 a turn for the full range of adjustment and on all of my KWA and TM mags the output valves have never been particularly tight and they're never an issue when it comes to sealing.

This, I've found on TM mags you can back the valve off by 3/4 of a full turn before it starts leaking with a stock valve, the threads on the valve are such a fine pitch that 1/2 a turn actually equates to very little movement.

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I found a way to get into the frame so I'll see if i can post a disassembly and more important a reassembly guide since I had a real fun time figuring out how to get it done correctly myself lol.

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Why?

 

A stiffer hammer spring will make the hammer drop fractionally faster, but I don't see how the valve knocker is going to open the valve either more or longer than will a regular hammer drop.

As I see it, a faster (and impulsed with more torque too) hammer will open the valve -which is sitting on another spring- for longer, as the valve spring will compress farther in. More time -> more liquid becomes gas -> more pressure at the rocket valve. At that point, depending on how the rocket valve is designed you might get more FPS or more recoil, but with generic valves more FPS will be the norm.

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All a stronger hammer spring does is provide more consistent strikes to the valve while using higher (than ment to be used) pressure gas. Using a stock hammer spring MAY (does not always) result in light strikes.

Thats out of the way, now answer my question regarding changing location of the safety. 

Please & thank you.

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As I see it, a faster (and impulsed with more torque too) hammer will open the valve -which is sitting on another spring- for longer, as the valve spring will compress farther in. More time -> more liquid becomes gas -> more pressure at the rocket valve. At that point, depending on how the rocket valve is designed you might get more FPS or more recoil, but with generic valves more FPS will be the norm.

Interesting.

 

Ultimately, what's needed is careful experimental research, swapping in one new component at a time and observing any change in performance.

 

In the meantime, let me just add that a stiffer hammer spring makes the hammer present greater resistance to the bump on the underside of the BBU in the slide during the slide's rearward travel, often affecting the whole cycling action.  I have experienced this first-hand.

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What i was getting at just better explained. Unless its a boiling hot day and you using old school red gas or co2 uprated hammer springs are just not needed. They will just slow cycle speed. To add the slide recoiling back also has to push the hammer down ready for the next shot. A stronger hammer spring would only make this harder adding to poor cycle speed.

 

They end up doing far more harm than good. Hiflow mag valves would essentially do the same job.

 

On my phone, my spelling will suck.

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Well I had a crack on one of these a couple of weeks ago and to me it was like when I held a M&P.

 

The gun feels and operates fine, crisp action, good range from the hop but like most modern guns it just doesn't fit my hand well enough. In fact with me it almost encourages me to grip it incorrectly which I don't like (but that is just me).

 

Still nice finish and seems to have a nice loud report.

 

'FireKnife'

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no it is 

 

All a stronger hammer spring does is provide more consistent strikes to the valve while using higher (than ment to be used) pressure gas. Using a stock hammer spring MAY (does not always) result in light strikes.

Thats out of the way, now answer my question regarding changing location of the safety. 

Please & thank you.

 

no it is not reversable.

 

you're welcome.

Edited by kagami

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So just noticed today that my outer barrel has a long scratch on it:

t8u9tj.jpg

2nq72f.jpg

It seems it was caused by this part:

2jcfsw6.jpg

The gun is entirely default, tough I use it on green gas. Anyone else experienced this?

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source? If you own one, please post pics. 

 

please check the first post of this thread.

 

 

zerek, it seems that your slide catch insert is wearing unevenly and is starting to bend outwards into the outer barrel area. I'm looking to see if i can have a steel insert created as the part is relatively simple dimension-wise.

 

I have also created a video showing the takedown and reassembly of the gun. I will be uploading these to youtube shortly!

Edited by kagami

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So I bought one of these valves for one of my magazines. Now I installed correctly(the flow hole or whatever it is called looks up for maximum gas flow), no leakage or anything. The weird part comes when I charge my gun and start shooting, it goes like this:

1. shot: almost nothing happens(maybe a little hiss of gas)

2. shot: just enough gas comes out that the bb can leave the barrel but can't move the slide

3. shot: either the same thing happens as previously or it finally moves the slide barely

4. shot: cycles normally but the shot is still weak

5. shot: cycles normally still a bit weak

6. shot and after: the gun starts working normally at full power

So I never experienced something like this, anyone have an idea? I tought that the striker can't hit it hard enough but then why does it starts working after a few shots?

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