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amateurstuntman

PolarStar Fusion Engine V3 in a King Arms Galil MAR

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I am setting out to modify my King Arms Micro Galil (MAR) to have a PolarStar Fusion Engine V3 gearbox replacement.

 

The reason I am documenting this is that I have found a lot of info on the internet but not too much on Arnie's.  What that means is that a lot of the info out there is about how they relate to playing in America and some of the Scandinavian countries but not much about using them in the UK.

 

So, instead of red nozzle and 30RPS full auto 400fps "CQB" builds and guides on how to get more power out of a setup by using power creep to your advantage when chronoing (which I consider to be flat out cheating by the way) I intend to build mine in a way that is relevant to UK airsofting (as I see it).

 

That means starting with a green nozzle and going for a skirmishable ~1J set-up with an extremely high ROF which I will be using for burst fire only and seeing where that takes me.

For highest ROF you need high pressure in the system and very low solenoid dwell, perhaps in the future I will go for a more gas efficient set-up which will be based around an ultra-low regulator pressure but that will require a more freely flowing nozzle.

 

Secondly, I haven't seen anyone who has one in a Galil.  I am no Bingo, I am not going to be (nor am I capable of) carrying out gross modifications on the product; the Galil is almost entirely AK compatible so I shouldn't have to mod it at all. However, the PolarStar is rare and the Galil is rare so a P* Galil is super-rare, if I run into any problems with the installation I will document them here in case it is relevant to anyone else.

 

I was hoping to start today, I ordered my P* on Thursday from The Grange for next day delivery, I was almost immediately called back so they could let me know I had missed the post and would have it today.

Never mind, It's all good.  It has not arrived today though and that is somewhat irritating.

 

I had put aside some time this evening to begin this endeavour so I might as well carry on and show you something I have done to modify my Galil in anticipation of the arrival of the Fusion Engine.

 

Fitting a rail to the Galil top cover.

 

This is not difficult in the least, in fact is is orders of magnitude easier on the Galil top cover than it is on a normal AK variant due to the position of the Galil rear sight which results in the Galil top cover having a flat portion.

 

The first thing I did was apply some tape to the top cover where I wanted the holes in the piece of rail to go:

20140609_185542_zps55e1f630.jpg

 

I cannot remember where I got the piece of rail, it was in my bits box but it is a pretty generic item.

 

I then marked out the hole centres with a pencil:

20140609_185602_zpsbf1cb142.jpg

 

Next, I centre punched where I wanted the holes to go and removed the tape.

20140609_185757_zpsfbce2b86.jpg

 

I drilled through with a small bit and then worked up to my desired diameter incrementally so as not to ruin the work.

I bolted the rail down with some titanium hardware that I had lying about from a job on my bike, simple really:

20140609_192343_zps72ae0c5e.jpg

 

This is the reason I had to wait until I was installing P* to do this, the bolts extend into the area that contains the battery when this is an electric rifle.

You can see that I have added an oddly shaped oval washer on the front bolt because that bolt has to sit in a concave portion of the top cover:

20140609_192357_zps069db218.jpg

 

Now, you could do this with an electric Galil if you wanted, you would have to drill countersunk recesses into the base of the rail then hammer the top cover into those recesses with a countersinking punch, then use countersunk machine screws in upside-down and live with the bolts being on the top.

I couldn't be bothered.

There is also a pre-made AK top cover with a rail and rear sight but the rail is plastic and the rear sight is wrong.

 

I like mine, I think it looks good:

20140609_192605_zps6441d1d5.jpg

 

20140609_192533_zps67672247.jpg

 

I know that isn't a PolarStar review but one is coming, I promise.

 

If anyone has any specific questions about the V3 P* please feel free to ask.

 

It is my intention to go into a fair amount to depth explaining the function of the whole system from  HPA cylinder to regulator and the function of the P* itself and what that means in gaming terms.

 

 

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That looks good, it is the TSI version which has lovely externals and somewhat hit and miss internals.  I'm not even sure it is a V3 box in there.

 

My P* arrived today, I am a little disappointed that it arrived with the blue nozzle and not a green one as specified.

I can't speak to the shop since they are closed tomorrow.

 

I can test fit it and I will do so tomorrow, I won't be able to shoot since the air fill adapter I have ordered to charge my cylinder from a SCUBA tank has also not arrived (different seller).

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Review

 

The P* arrived yesterday and today since I am still waiting for the DIN to 1/8 QD adapter I ordered so I can fill my cylinder myself (more on that later) I went down to my local friendly SCUBA shop and they filled it for me, there is no guarantee that a given dive centre will be able to do it but there is a good chance.

 

If you are in North Kent then Nemes diving and watersports academy at Holborough lakes definitely can, while you are there, why not learn how to SCUBA dive?

Tell them Ginge sent you.

 

Now that I have a full cylinder I can begin my exploration of the P*.

 

Stuff

 

20140611_193500_zpsa960709a.jpg

 

From left to right:

 

Cup of tea - MINE! Back off!

 

Guerilla Air Myth 0.8 litre 206 Bar cylinder, its actual name is in imperial numbers but they are a load of nonsense.  What the hell is a cubic inch?

 

Biscuits - Mine too! Grrrrr.

 

PolarStar V3 Fusion Engine with two different macro line fittings.

 

Fire control unit, hereto forth known as an FCU.

 

Very small LiPo.

 

Redline Firebase regulator.

 

High security Cable tie.

 

Fitting

 

The P* went into the King arms Galil without any problems of any sort (except that I forgot to fit the trigger guard like I always do). Below is a photo of the single mod that had to be made to make it fit.

 

20140611_195702_zps9a51ef5d.jpg

 

The P* came with an FCU and two fittings, one is a placeholder and the other is the male end of a 1/8" (sorry, there are a lot of stupid imperial dimensions on this, it's American) QD fitting.

 

20140611_193547_zpsb581de78.jpg

 

It also comes with a fire selector mechanism that works more slickly that the original one did.

It does not however come with the button for the top cover, pictured below is the one from my Galil.

 

20140611_194351_zps18813f93.jpg

 

Think about that for a second.

They give you a selector plate and the geared parts of the selector but not the button, you have to take the gearbox halves apart to get the button out (or just pry them apart but you still have to loosen a load of screws and take the top plate off to get it out.

That button is the reason you can't quickly swap between electric and gas operation, that button is the reason you can't sell the unused gearbox as a "complete" gearbox.

That is why the installation took 10 minutes and not 5.

 

For a £450 item, that's a bit stingy.

 

Anyway, you plug in the FCU:

 

20140611_193759_zps57e7a65f.jpg

 

Which contains some chips and a screen and a button and plug the battery into the FCU.

 

20140611_193829_zpsd9a57599.jpg

 

The battery does not come with the P* system, is is fairly cheap but don't forget you will need to buy one.

This one came from the Grange like all my other bits.  Because although if you really tried you could get them all elsewhere for less or buy used equivalents I couldn't be arsed looking or waiting.

 

This battery has some issues though.

It doesn't fit my charger:

 

20140611_200258_zps84a951f9.jpg

 

Which means it also doesn't fit my LiPo cell alarm.

 

I am now going to have to buy a balance plug adapter or the correct balance plug and solder it on or something and I hate that because I am really, really, lazy.

 

Once hooked together the FCU slides in next to the hop as if it was designed to and the battery goes in the hand guard with a bit of jiggling.

 

20140611_200048_zps941b59d1.jpg

 

20140611_200128_zpsda62d447.jpg

 

20140611_200702_zps5b36a2f0.jpg

 

The whole rifle fits back together and looks great.

 

20140611_200740_zps05dc7e32.jpg

 

20140611_200815_zpsbc0dc12c.jpg

 

At that point you can pull the trigger and you will hear the solenoids firing.

Although the bbs get their energy from the high pressure air (HPA) the air is channelled by two solenoids that are themselves controlled by the FCU and powered by the battery.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nrtjMQtmhQU&feature=youtu.be

 

PolarStar say you can use a range of battery voltages but users have noted that the solenoids can get quite hot when using 11.1v LiPos.

There is no performance benefit from using a higher voltage battery so there is no need to bother.

 

 

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Air system

 

The power for the P* gearbox comes from the power harnessed in the form of HPA, 206 bar might not sound a lot but a truck tyre typically has about 6 or 7 Bar in it and the overpressure during a blowout has been known to kill.

A SCUBA cylinder like mine has the equivalent stored energy of 2 hand grenades and this little paintball tank has about 75,000 joules of stored energy.

 

That energy is stored in a tank.

This is mine:

 

20140611_193511_zpsbd7c283c.jpg

 

Putting 206 Bar through the P* solenoids would result in them exploding so you need to regulate the pressure down.

The system has a maximum of 8 Bar of input pressure but the regulator can be adjusted lower than this to reduce fps for a given nozzle.

 

Here is the regulator:

 

20140611_193558_zps961f0ad0.jpg

 

20140611_193710_zps24eae5c1.jpg

 

This one is made by Redline airsoft and is designed to work with the P*; paintball regs will work but the air demands of the P* are different and Redline claim a performance improvement on sustained full auto.  That doesn't bother me, I was just too lazy to shop around - see above.

 

When it is all screwed together it looks a bit ungainly, with bits poking out in all directions and looking like they'd catch on things and get in the way.

 

20140611_194153_zps735be982.jpg

 

I'm going to see if I can do something about that at a later date, possibly using a remote line to separate the cylinder and regulator so that they are a less awkward shape.

 

Tournament lock

 

One of the selling features of the Redline regulator is that is has an integrated tournament lock.

 

What that means is that the screw that one uses to adjust the output pressure of the regulator can be blocked by fitting a cable tie through holes drilled in the end cap.

The reason you would want to do that is that it is possible for scumbags to chrono within game limits with a low output pressure then turn the pressure up with an (idiotic imperial) allen key so they can shoot holes in people.

 

That behaviour should merit the death penalty in my opinion but because of barely human oxygen thieves who have such low self esteem that they can't bear to lose at any cost the P* has garnered a bit of a reputation as the preferred weapon of cheating troglodytes.

 

Due to that is has become necessary for normal human beings who want to benefit from the features of the P* to use their tournament lock.

 

The scumbags have now started trying to get round this by cutting off the cable tie, adjusting the reg and replacing the tie.  They can also cheat by partially unscrewing the end cap and then rotating the cable tie in the hole so the (retarded imperial) allen key can fit in.

 

There is a way around this.

 

High security cable ties.

 

20140611_193611_zps5fd3af82.jpg

 

They are individually numbered and thicker and stronger than normal cable ties.

 

They also don't fit through the holes in the tournament lock.

 

So I widened the holes into slots (badly).

 

20140611_204630_zps64252223.jpg

 

Now the high security cable ties will fit through but they cannot rotate.  There is no way to cheat.

 

All you have to remember to do is fit the tie in such a way that an inbred shambolic wreck of a human can't just unscrew the whole end cap and adjust the reg.

 

Like this:

 

20140611_204521_zps5a2331d6.jpg

 

20140611_204537_zps71dc4660.jpg

 

Now my reg is totally locked down to and beyond the accepted standard among non-cheating people.

 

 

Performance

 

So, as I was saying the output pressure is one of 3 major factors determining the amount of energy the bb gets.

The other 2 are:

Barrel length and nozzle colour.

 

No, I'm not crazy, I know components are not more or less effective just because of their colour (although red is fast, yellow is faster and black is coolest) but PolarStar colour code their different nozzles for easy identification, the colours relate to the level of restriction in the nozzle and the less restriction you get in the nozzle the more fps (ceteris paribus).

 

Because barrel length also plays a part PolarStar quote a base fps with different barrel lengths per nozzle at 8 Bar.

 

I got a blue nozzle which is:

 

275mm - 380fps, 380mm - 405fps, 509mm - 435fps

 

I wanted a green nozzle:

 

275mm - 313fps, 380mm - 325fps, 509mm - 363fps

 

I thought with a green nozzle and the Galil's short barrel (233mm) I'd be putting out around 300fps on 8 Bar.

 

Chrono

 

I tested the rifle this evening and this is where I would usually put a video of that unfortunately my wife is not Kathryn Bigelow or even Heather Donahue and the video was so bad I can't show it.

 

What it showed was me trying to chrono the rifle on stock settings to show a baseline and failing.

The 0.2g bbs I found were so bad they wouldn't feed through the King Arms midcaps.

 

I switched to my ammo of choice (.25g tracer) and fired away (with a blue nozzle remember) and got 290 fps within 1 fps over 20 shots, the consistency was amazing.

 

However, 290 fps on a .25 is 0.97J which is 323 with a 0.2g bb.

 

I think for my barrel length a blue nozzle is a good choice.

 

ROF

 

On full auto the rifle was firing at 18.5 rounds per second.  OK but not enough for me, I want at least 3 times that to get my bursts out quickly enough.

 

Plan

 

There are basically two ways to tune a P*.

 

1 Maximum efficiency.  You choose an output (say 1J) then use the biggest nozzle and the smallest poppet valves at the lowest pressure with the shortest solenoid dwells (more on those later) possible to get the maximum number of rounds out per air tank.

 

or

 

2. Maximum ROF.  Again, you choose a target FPS first then you use the smallest nozzle you can at maximum pressure to get the metal parts moving as fast as possible to then use extremely short solenoid dwells to get maximum ROF.  I'm going down that road.

 

Or I might do both.  For the fun of it.

Edited by amateurstuntman

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That is one large cup of tea.

 

Great post! I'm thinking of looking into a P* this year. Bookmarked.

 

IT'S MY *fruitcage* TEA, GET YOUR OWN!

 

Ahem, sorry.

 

Yes it is, it is half a litre of tea.  The correct amount of tea.

If the following things happen:

 

I get it working.

 

I go to the "South" meet up.

 

You go to the "South" meet up.

 

The site the "South" meet up happens at allows P*s.

 

You may try it out for a game to see if it suits you.

 

 

Anyway, on with my last post of the evening and it must begin with a heartfelt thank you to Arnie for doing some upgrade to the forum software at some point in the past because there is now a feature that I have never noticed before whereby the forum automatically saves a draft of the post you are working on every now and then.

If it had not been doing that throughout my last post I would have lost the entire thing due to me hitting Alt-Home (go to your browser's homepage) instead of Shift-Home (select everything left of the cursor in this row of text) by mistake a few minutes ago.

 

I would now be running down the road furiously kicking my computer ahead of myself had that happened.

 

Thank you.

 

 

So, all that remains is a summary.

 

Initial impressions

 

Is the P* well engineered?  It certainly seems so, yes.

 

Is the P* good value?  Time will tell, I'm not 100% at the moment due to what seems like fairly tight behaviour RE: included bits with such an expensive product.  It could easily ship with a battery and a top cover button.

I am in over £700 in bits not including the donor gun but from my experience of building a high ROF AEG it wasn't much cheaper if at all and it blew up all the time.  If the P* is stable and reliable for a year then I will say yes.  We'll see.

 

Is the P* easy to fit?  Yes and no.  Yes, it went in very easily but no, it is not working properly yet.  I know I have to tune it so I can't be hasty but the BBs are hooking right, the gas seal doesn't seem to be very good in the hop, feeding is not brilliant and I am not where I expected to be in terms of power output especially bearing in mind that I am at maximum input pressure already.

 

Is the P* an easy alternative to building a high ROF electric gun?  Yes and no.  Yes it is easier than building an electric gun if you are capable of building the high ROF electric gun but No, it is not a shortcut for some clown to get 100rps with no skill. I think there will be a lot of subtlety involved in getting the best out of this baby.

 

Are you tired?  Yes, yes I am.

 

Are you aware that you are talking to yourself?  Am I?  I thought that was you.

 

You should go to bed.

 

OK.

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Excellent link and than you for posting it.

 

I had read that while I was researching whether to drop the money on a P* and it was a contributing factor.

 

As I work on the rifle I will be posting back my progress and referring to that thread.

 

It'll be fun on a bun

 

Fun²

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I don't know (or if I'm brutally honest - care) if anyone will find this useful but I like to visualise information so I put PolarStar's 120psi (8 Bar) predicted FPS outputs per barrel length into a spreadsheet and made a graph.

 

Nozzlepower_zpse21154f8.png

 

That is moderately useful but not brilliant.

 

What I did was to plot the trend lines for each colour of nozzle, get the function of those lines and then calculate the fps at 5mm barrel length intervals for each nozzle.

 

Nozzlepowerextrapolated_zps9fc097b4.png

 

Please remember that these are extrapolated from a best fit line from 3 points of data which means if they are accurate it is by accident.

However, it will give you a good idea of where you should be roughly.

 

As an example of why they won't be right think back to my fps numbers.

323fps with a .2 (equivalent) on a 233mm barrel and blue nozzle.

The graph says 370fps.

 

Perhaps I will get more when I set the hop to mesh up properly with the nozzle, perhaps my gearbox is too far back, either way I am 47fps down.

 

So the graphs are there, they are rubbish, enjoy.

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Update

 

OK, so earlier when I got 290 out of the rig with .25s on stock settings?  Those settings are junk (for my configuration).

 

I have begun tuning the MAR and I have got a basic reliable setup now.

 

Here's what I have, the way the fusion engine works is that the electronics control two solenoids which are gas valves controlled by magnetic actuators.

 

The valves are fired in sequence, that sequence is (if you are using it in "open bolt mode" which I am for now):

 

1, DN: Nozzle goes back and pauses to allow bb to feed up in front of the nozzle.

2, DR: Nozzle is released and there is a pause to allow the nozzle to run forward and push the bb into the hop.

3, DP: Weapon is fired and there is a pause to allow the gas to get into the barrel

4, RF: Gas to the barrel is stopped and there is a pause before the nozzle begins to retract.

 

You can control the duration of these pauses which are called solenoid dwells.

 

They are measured in milliseconds except DP which is measured in tenths of a millisecond.

 

If you add them all together (plus a little extra because whatever setting you have the DP at the computer will add 2.7ms [depending on version] to).

 

I have:

DN=10

DR=12

DP =(0.)4 + 2.7 from the computer = 3.1

RF=4

 

That adds up to 27.1ms which goes into 1000 36 times giving a theoretical ROF of 36RPS.

 

I measured my ROF as 34RPS so it seems to be ballpark accurate.  Either a little drift in the FCU or in my Chrono.

 

Speaking of the chrono.  Same nozzle, same input pressure (8 Bar) different dwell settings and I have jumped from 290 fps with a .25 up to 341±1  fps with a .25.

That is 1.34J which with a 0.2 is 380fps.

 

That's a big jump, could be bedding in, could be crappy factory settings, could be both, is a problem.

 

Obviously that is at maximum input pressure so I can (and will) reduce that to a responsible level for play but I will now need to get a gold or green nozzle to keep the pressure up while I reduce power so I can keep the ROF up.

 

I will also be looking for ways to improve the feeding of my mags so I can reduce the DN and improve my hop so I can reduce the DR.

 

With lighter BBs the DR can be lower so I should be able to use a lower setting than the Americans with their heavy BBs

 

 

Interestingly my tracer unit is beginning to have difficulty keeping up with the ROF already, I wonder if there is something that can be done about that?

That's it for this evening.

 

Good night.

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Couple of things, you will want to use the heaviest BB's you can with it. It's not just an American thing. Even with the short barrel you have, you will get more benefits for performance and range by using heaver BB's.

 

Also you won't want to run the regulator at max input, and then use a different nozzle to adjust the FPS. The higher your input pressure, the more air you use, the faster you go through it. If you have access to an HPA fill station where you play, not that big of a deal. If you don't, plan on buying extra and larger tanks. You want to try to find that balance between input pressure, inner barrel, nozzle size, and settings to get the FPS and ROF you want, while being as efficient as possible.

Edited by Fly'n Brian

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Thanks buddy.

 

Running out of gas is not an issue, I am a SCUBA diver and have a couple of 12l cylinders that I keep filled, there is a SCUBA compressor where I work too.  I've got a fill station in the post.

 

Given that I have no interest in max efficiency then operating at a higher pressure should allow me to have shorter dwell times which is something I am interested in.

 

.25s are the heaviest I can use because nobody makes tracer that is heavier and I love my tracer.

There are some white .4s about, I have seen them in the sniper forum.

The problem is that in the UK a typical site limit will be 328 to 350 fps (around 1 Joule).

If you are using .4 bbs at that energy level then you are shooting at 232 fps, the bbs are going so slowly you can dodge them.

 

Obviously with the P* there is the possibility to mess with the settings so that you chrono at 1J with a .2 but are over gassing to give more power and range with the heavier bbs.

Exploiting power creep like that is cheating though, fps is just a shorthand for muzzle energy and savvy sites should be quoting it in joules any way.

 

If I am using .25s I get the advantage that the lighter bb will be able to be pushed into the hop slightly faster and they will load better since the mag spring doesn't have to work as hard.

 

Tracer has the further advantage that the plastic that they use for them is slick and smooth so they feed even better.

It is a little soft though.

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Glad to see more information on "joule creep" getting out there. I've been running a Polarstar since early 2012 and information on how to properly chrono them to maintain a safe energy level on the field has only been slowly diffusing to the major fields and event hosts in my area (Midwest USA). 

 

One of the major issues I've encountered is Polarstar users pushing the "use as heavy a BB as you can" advice without also mentioning the need to remain under a given playing site's maximum energy limit. For most places in my area that maximum energy limit is 1.5 joules or 400 fps with .20s. The result is that a lot of Polarstar users are chronoing under or at 1.5 joules with .20s, but then running .30s or .40s in their rifles. Of course, they then get excellent range and performance, thus encouraging them to pass on the "use as heavy a BB as you can" advice, while not realizing that "joule creep" is effectively pushing their rifles above the 1.5 joule limit. 

 

Most people don't seem to realize that two rifles, be they Polarstar, AEG or GBBR, putting out 1.5 joules apiece are going to perform basically the same.

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Exactly.  I'm sure you know this Gigueand but for anyone who doesn't:

 

Heavier BBs have a number of advantages:

They are more stable in flight.

They are less sensitive to hop adjustments (and therefore) they are easier to set perfectly.

Although they start slower (for a given energy) they slow down slower and therefore retain more energy at typical ranges.

They penetrate light scrub (leaves and such) better.

 

However

 

Depending on your barrel length and set up they will allow you to get more joules from heavier bbs.

This effect is noticeable even with an AEG but is magnified with GBBRs and even more so with an P*.

 

This is caused because the BB accelerates slower which means it spends longer in the barrel which means it get accelerated for longer.

This means that although the heavy BB is slower it is not enough slower than the lighter BB to have the same energy.

 

This effect can be accidentally (through ignorance) or deliberately (by sub-human scumbags) exploited by P* users to give even more power creep.

This is done by lengthening the DP solenoid dwell.  With too much dwell on that with a .2 you waste gas and make noise and arguably reduce accuracy since the BB leaves the barrel surrounded by a load of turbulent air.

However when the heavier BB is fired that extra gas goes to propel the BB faster.

 

 

 

I intend to document this phenomenon with my rifle when I get some heavier BBs (probably next month) and explain how it all works with some graphs.

 

I like graphs.

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Played my first game with it the other day.

 

It went extremely well, I am still getting used to it to be honest but it is astonishingly good fun.

 

Zero trigger lag, 5 round bursts are put down range in a single "quack" noise.

 

It's awesome.

 

It had no mechanical issues all day and generated quite a lot of interest.

 

I have put some grip tape on the fire selector and put a LiPo cell monitor in the chamber area so that the status LEDs are visible when the bolt is open.

20140906_115203_zpsdc6a9cc3.jpg

 

Next thing is to buy some heavier BBs and do some experimenting.

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It's been a while but I have an update.

 

I have been using .28g tracer at about 278fps, this thing is ridiculously accurate even with a tiny barrel.

It is a bit obnoxious but I was able to shoot a 20mm torch out from 30m with my first shot this weekend.

The torch was placed on the ground in a darkened basement at the mall to give concealment to the other team behind it, I consider it a valid tactic to shoot it.  You may disagree.

The player who placed it there hopefully understood that it was a possibility.

 

The entire day was typified by accurate first shot fire and rapid suppressing fire in single shot.

The only time in the whole day I used full auto mode was to demonstrate the rate of fire to a marshal and that wasn't fired at a player.

 

I built this weapon system to adhere to my doctrine of deliberate, aimed, short, high-rof bursts and in a delicious twist of irony it has turned me into a single shot user.

 

 

Now onto a problem I have been having, not with the P* but with the stupid, cheap (I know), Chinese (l know), decanting whip I bought.

 

The pressure relief valve in the decanting whip I use to transfer compressed air from my 12l 300bar SCUBA cylinder to the paint ball cylinder I use to power my P* is borked.

 

You can't unscrew the connectors from either end if there is air at 300bar still in the hose.

You need to relieve the pressure.

To do so you press a button and the tiny amount of air in the hose leaks out and you disconnect the smaller cylinder.

 

On mine you press the button and it *suitcases* out half an O ring, the rest of the O ring then jams into the bleed hole and the air leaks out over the next 20 minutes.

at that point you can disconnect the cylinder, rebuild the pressure relief valve with a new O ring and play airsoft.

 

It does this, first time, every time.  As reliable as the P* is, this thing is unreliable.

It's astonishing.

 

It is this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-HPA-High-Pressure-Air-Scuba-Din-Fill-Station-Adapter-300bar-4500psi-/390728460199?hash=item5af93b27a7

 

Do not buy it, it is utter garbage.

 

It'll cost a bit over double but get one made up by a SCUBA parts supplier or ask me to do it.

I have a decent source for the parts now.

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Me too, I bought them at the built-in shop at The Mall, Absolute Airsoft I believe.

 

They are branded Nupro diamond grade.

They performed very well with exceptional consistency and fed well even through my annoying King Arms Midcaps.

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I had to cap it at 35 due to the mags being a bit poor.

 

I'm going to transplant the whole thing into a different gun and try M4 mags.

Should get between 40 and 50 at reasonable power.

 

The other option is to try modified Magpul AK mags.

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Damn shame. Are you using burst or sticking with vanilla f/a?

 

With regards to mags - the micro galil is so cool it seems a shame to do anything else! 

 

TSI did a m4 magwell converter for the galil however I doubt that would work out of the box - I know nothing of TSI galils - or KA for that matter.

 

I saw your post in off topic regarding your tracer unit. Perhaps it's worth taking apart the mags, putting in a stronger spring (??) to increase the feed rate and installing a tracer bulb in the mags like this? http://www.evike.com/products/25333/

 

Just ideas. Cheers. 

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I would recommend you try the Cyma Bulgarian AK (modeled after 5.56 mags ), they are the same as the "magpul" beta project mags, at half the price. I've moded the BP mags to work successfully in my KA Galil by filing the front hook. The beta project mags are not that great quality, but you can remove the shell and fit it into a ICS steel Galil hicap if you wanna go for a more classic look. The external quality of the ICS mags is miles ahead of the KA midcaps.

 

Instead of a tracer unit, you could always modify your hop up unit to illuminate the bbs with UV LEDs. That would solve the problem of your tracer unit not being able to keep up with your RPS setting.

 

Lastly, not sure how much you care for authenticity, but the trigger in the KA Galil is completely wrong. The real Galil uses a straighter trigger, instead of an AK one. Thankfully ICS uses a correct trigger, and you can order it from their website!

Edited by SuperCriollo

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Thanks guys.

 

The problem with mag tracers and hop tracers (I have tried both) is that they are even less good with rof than normal tracer units.

 

The mag ones don't work at all on single shot since the BB loses its glow before it even makes it into the hop and the hop ones aren't bright enough to charge the bbs at high rof.

At 35rps 210mm of bbs go past the hop in one second, each one isn't adjacent to the led for long enough.

 

I already have improved springs and the 3D printed upgrade followers so the mags are at their limits already.

 

I will sell the MAR if I can get enough or put a Chimera MOSFET in it if not.

 

I think I will switch to an APS UAR for playing.   Mostly because it upsets a lot of people just by existing.

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