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"New Wave" Small Rice 7 (MP7) Review

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It's just a bit strange that no one in the English speaking world has done a review on the "new wave" MP7.  


I hear a lot of raves on the VFC MP7, which while I am sure is 1:1 and kicks like a mule, it is also significantly lighter.  After witnessing the video review by nugentgl and seeing the complexity of the VFC, not to mention the 2 piece (plastic?) inner frame and barrel, I decided that the "new wave" MP7 was a much better engineered beast which deserves a little more exposure.


I have owned many^2 airsoft guns in my time, so I will draw upon the experience from the other guns that I have had as well.  I am not the person to make pretty pictures or write fluffy sales pitches, so this is a no BS, first impression + technical and performance review.




I saw this thing at the local airsoft store the other day, and I wasn't really gonna get it.  Having owned a KSC MP7, KWC Mini UZI, and still own a KSC MP9 and a VFC MP5, I didn't see a point in another SMG/PDW.  


But the sales guy knows I am curious and tempts me with this relatively internet-obscure gun, took it out of the gun cabinet and let me fire this.  One full auto dump at 15*C and I was hooked.  


It was loud, my ears rang.

It had kick, was enough to offset my aim on single hand semi and on auto.  

It had ROF.

It had no drop in ROF.


I chronoed this at the store, and it was around 360fps on 0.2gs, for a relatively cold day it wasn't bad at all.


After some um and ahhring I parted with my cash.  My wife is gonna kill me.


Here is the box it comes it. 



It comes with the sights, rails unmounted.  It also comes with a disassembly allen key, a thread adaptor for a 14-ve silencer and a spare stock stopper (not steel).



Here is the comparison between the 4 different platforms:


KSC MP9 is at 1.8kgs, 5" barrel, 1:1
WE MP7 is at 2.1kgs, 7" barrel, 1:1
VFC MP5 is at 2.5kgs, 8" barrel. 1:1
DE UMP is at 2kgs, 8" barrel
Here is front side, its pretty typical plastic from WE, similar to their G36/G39 plastic, with a finer texture.  Everything that needs to be metal is metal.  Flash hider/barrel/gas block etc. But its typical WE metal; i.e. mixture of zamak and aluminium, with a touch of steel/hardened stuff at most of the high stress places (which I will get to later).


Here is the 4 position stock, which is a blessing as the half setting is just right length for CQB but no good with a mask.



Here is the mag, rather uninteresting, it is double stacked with an exposed front, similar design to a Marui, but bigger.


Here is the front, with the flash hider removed, that notch above the barrel is where we can adjust the hop up.



Here is the sights, again, just an MP7 sights but ok in quality and looks the part.  Its just not steel.



So far, its just a fairly standard MP7, abeit 1:1 in scale, and weight.  


Now lets take it apart.


Pop the take down pins and remove the stock here is the bolt group



Its partially hollow on the top, but has all the right bits in the right places.


Now to remove the mech, what we need is that allen key and remove the selector and bolt catch:


Ok here is the surprise:


Casted and milled aluminium mech.  No wonder why it is so weighty.  Not a 2 piece plastic jobbie like the VFC, and not a million springs fly out (just 3).  Its even easier than the KSC/KWA or the Marui MP7 to take apart. 


Here is the barrel and gas block assembly, note the anti bounce buffer on the gas block. Barrel is rock solid with no wobble or alignment issues:



Its aluminum.  Secured via two screws at the bottom of the mech, and this disassembles the hop unit also.


Now looking at the mechbox here is what interesting, chrome/steel hammers and seers.  Its not chrome plated pot metal (more to that later).








Now this is where it gets a little interesting - 


The trigger release on the New Wave MP7 is not the best.  Like others in the SMG 8 review have found that its mushy on semi-auto.  In fact, I have to pull it all the way back before it will release on semi.  Certainty very unsatisfactory and does not bode well with a CQB platform where quick trigger response is required.


But with a dremel or a good needle file this can all be fixed.


Looking from the right side of the hammer this is what needs to be done to the right side sear contact point (not the left side one as that is for the auto sear/bolt trip).




I would dremel that part half way and then slowly file down gradually, testing the trigger release.  


The optimum result is:  On semi, trigger releases @ half pull.  On Safe, trigger does not release.  On full trigger releases @ 1/4 pull.  


If you over file: on safe, the gun will fire, and that would really suck, so file gradually after half way.



So now, its ready for a proper test. At 8m on .25g its giving a 3cm group, which is fairly decent given its a short barrel rifle, but could be a lot better.


But here is what happens at 50m,  It shoots straight...straight but high...straight but low...hook left, hook left, hook right.....straight...straight high...


What is happening is a classic example of a shoddy designed hop rubber.  


So I took the barrel assembly apart, unfortunately no pictures...


1) The inner barrel moves ever so slightly around the outer barrel.

2) The hop adjuster is a 2 prong design, has no nub and is hard plastic

3) The hop rubber is the Marui type BUT the alignment tab is at the front rather than at the breech end.  If you need to change hop rubber you will need to cut off the tab.

4) The hop rubber has the same issue as the KSC hop rubber, which has a constrictor ring cast'ed inside.  BB doesn't drop through the rubber it gets stuck inside the hop rubber.


Here is the fix, same as the KSC/KWA NS2 hop mod:


KSC System 7 Hop Up accuracy Mod


5) The hop adjuster doesn't push down on the hop rubber as it actually hits the barrel instead .  Here is the issue, and the fix :





I also teflon taped the hop rubber and the barrel, added a sliver of aluminium superglued into the outer barrel as a bushing to prevent the inner barrel movement.


I am getting consistent hop trajectory at 50m with .25g, at 340fps on 0.25gs @ 15*C, 1cm grouping at 8m on the stock 7" barrel.


Compared with SMG/PDW at a similar class.


VFC MP5 with Marui Hop rubber mod, 8" barrel, 340fps on 0.25gs @ 15*C.  Kick is there but but not as strong as the MP7.

KSC MP9 with Modded KSC hop rubber mod, 5" Barrel, 340 on 0.25gs @ 15*C.  Kick is the weakest out of all 3, but ROF is the fastest. 


Since all 3 have had mods to the hop, the Mp5 is the most accurate at both long and short ranges, but the MP9 is pretty much the same as the MP7,   MP7 has an extra 10m more of range than the MP9 but that could be how the hop is currently set.





Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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It's just a bit strange that no one in the English speaking world has done a review on the "new wave" MP7.     I hear a lot of raves on the VFC MP7, which while I am sure is 1:1 and kicks like a mul

Calbur20 left with me his New Wave Small Rice (MP7) to fix up. He had mangled the trigger bar spring which I was to fabricate a new replacement for and find out why it was having difficulty applying s

I’m not sure if any of you other owners have noticed, but WE’s Facebook page posted up an offer for free improved gas routers which will improve cool down/efficiency and performance. You just have to

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WE/New wave MP7 is a darn good buy,


- The price point is lower than a G39C but more expensive than an SMG8 which is strange as it is practically the same thing.  This price point is less than a KSC MP9.

- WE has strangely learned from past mistakes and have used

   - quality materials/parts (Stainless steel hammer?)

   - machining

   - simple 1 piece mech design.


....to get this going, its quite a feat.


It has the typical issues associated with any mass manufactured replica (note similar hop issues with KSC/VFC etc) , but overall because it is well designed the amount of work required to get this performing great has been minimal.


Since it is that cheap, but well made it has definately been worth the money.


Of course, long term use of the weapon has not been conducted hence a full conclusion cannot be drawn as yet, but from what I can see, its more than just a backyard plinker.  FPS is high enough as a proper field weapon.  I see its ideal for those pesky section commanders/squad leaders who don't need to be in the fight or those sneaky SpecOps wannabe types.


Only down side is that its LOUD and really can't be silenced at all.  But that comes as the cost of a cheap fun spam GBBR.


So far, I would rate this better than a 8" WE KAC PDW replica even though the PDW was miles more accurate.  The PDW suffered from cool down at the same temperature as the MP7, and working parts trapping dirt and seizing up in the bush.


Only time will tell if it will become a venerable field weapon, such as tolerance to rain/sand/dirt which I usually take my weapons through. Unfortunately I haven't played properly in years and don't have a team to play with so I won't be able to take this through its paces.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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Very nice detailed review. I picked one of these up when they first came out but I haven't had the chance to properly open her up.

A clean of trigger mech and internals helped but still very mushy semi auto response and I also got full auto on occasion when in semi which I assumed was due to problems with the seer tolerances.

Will now open if up again and try the mod you've suggested.

Also the hopup mod as it does have issues with adjustments.


Just as an extra I have not seen any extra mags for this but the SMG-8 mags fit but require a minor mod to the serrations which interact with the mag catch. A small amount of fileing is all that's needed.


Look forward to your future observations. And will report back with how my own mods go!

Edited by Number5
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Thanks a lot for doing it, although 15° mag dump sounds much better than what mine could handle, I ended up just working the mushy semi loose, will open it up and do a bit of filing where you've recommended. I wonder if there's anything I could do to improve the cool down in full auto. 

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What I usually do to fix cooldown is to:

- clip the return spring incrementally until it just has enough tension to return the bolt to battery when pointing the gun upwards. This I find allows most gbbrs to use less gas in pushing the bolt back while decreasing the rof so there is more time for gas to convert from liquid to gas, decreasing likelyhood of cool down. It also increases speed of the bolt moving backwards but also increases the chance of bolt bounce, which may not be a good thing.
- lighten the bolt, if possible
- lighten the hammer spring, usually that decreases fps and blowback.

I usually run most gbbrs with very little lube, only around the piston oring and a little in the triggers. It's usually dry around the bolt. Time in the sand and dirt showed me how lubricants traps dirt and sand and makes the moving parts seize up. Similarly same goes to AEGs, where any lubricants in the mech can go anywhere, sand and dirt gets stuck in the mech box, piston and barrel, trapping dirt and grit making things wear prematurely or affecting overall accuracy.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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A bit of lube on nozzle and slide/bolt guide rails goes a long way. Reducing friction means less wear too. But you're right that they attract dirt (haven't tried dry lubes) in the long run but if you clean it regularly as you should for regular maintenance it's not really a problem. What I do is do a field strip after a weekends game and wipe off any moisture/sweat. Then I do a visual inspection of moving parts. If a part is too grimey I scrub it clean with a toothbrush and reapply a thin film of ceramic before putting it back in.

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  • 1 month later...

Just ordered this from scorpion-airsoft because it was on sale for $147.


I've never heard of scorpion so I did a little searching and it seems that they've only just opened in June.. my order number was "5" haha. A bit weary but we'll see.

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I’m not sure if any of you other owners have noticed, but WE’s Facebook page posted up an offer for free improved gas routers which will improve cool down/efficiency and performance. You just have to show proof of purchase for your SMG-8 or, *I assume*, New Wave MP7 because the picture they post is actually of a New Wave MP7!!! You also have to send them a picture of your bolt locked back with view of the nozzle. They will also send gas routers for any SMG-8 magazines you may have bought with proof of purchase. Seems like they’re only doing this for a limited time as they stated first come first serve.


I Installed a maple leaf 70 degree bucking, huge improvement in range and accuracy with bioval .30s; the stock bucking really is . Had to sand down the hop arm as OP mentioned, otherwise no hop was applied to the maple leaf. It also bumped the fps to 430 from 400. I originally put in an Orga 6.23 200mm VSR barrel but I couldn’t get it to stay aligned so i switched back to the factory inner barrel. Lost 30 fps with the Orga barrel.


The hammer is made from some seriously soft steel. After hundreds of cycles, my trigger was still unbelievably bad. I ended up reshaping the hammer/sear engagement as suggested by OP. It was great for about one hundred rounds, but then the sear stopped engaging the hammer. When I would pull the charging handle back and let go, the gun would run away on full auto until empty. I took it apart and the ledge that I had created on the hammer which interacts with the sear had already been mis-shapened by the sear.  Turned into more of a slope than a ledge. Only took around 100 shots. I’ve re-shaped it and its fine again, but I don’t know how long it will last.  My advice is to do very minor modifications to the hammer. I may end up just buying the Zparts cnc steel SMG-8 trigger and sears if mine ends up messing up again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ah, turns out I probably didn't have to buy the gas routers (or at least not so many of them), all my new SMG8 mags already got the new ones installed, so I bought 8 when I only needed 1. 


Here's a close up of the difference. 




Left was the one from the Small Rice 7 old mag, right is from the new mags. There's a noticeable sharper kick with all the new mags, and after installing the new gas route on the older mag, I also noticed an immediate improvement, so looks like they're worth the trouble. 

Edited by blobface
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