Tw1tch Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 I look forward to your verdict. Hope I source my New Rice soon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blobface Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Going to have to decide if I actually want to install it when it gets here, it should have been obvious but I wasn't concentrating when I ordered it, don't see why it wouldn't work but it's not reversible, the folding grip will have to be ditched if I were to install this. Will see. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tw1tch Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Aye. I'm looking at possibly getting a spare shell just in case I botch it. If you decide against it though I'll probably buy it off you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Batmause Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 http://www.kyairsoft.com/ or try on WGCshop.com. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tw1tch Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Got one yesterday with 8 mags (plus a 552 and generic suppressor) for £260, happy days. Now it's time to look into the hop and trigger to make it shoot as nice as possible. Also got to sort out the accessories, always fun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tw1tch Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Couple of things. I take it the charging handle is meant to reciprocate with every shot? Most importantly my safety appears to be working in a funny manner. If I cock it on safe and pull the trigger it doesn't fire, switch to semi or auto and it does (no issue here) but then if I move it back to safe with it still cocked and pull the trigger it fires. I think I must've borked the selector when reassembling it but it's odd. Got the trade plate kit (hooray!). Any idea which way round I should put the silver sticker on the bottom? Can't wait for the suppressor to come in along with the M300 and sort a T1 (any suggestions for one that won't die on a GBBR?). Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alias1983 Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Primarily arms Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted May 1, 2016 Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 Couple of things. I take it the charging handle is meant to reciprocate with every shot? Most importantly my safety appears to be working in a funny manner. If I cock it on safe and pull the trigger it doesn't fire, switch to semi or auto and it does (no issue here) but then if I move it back to safe with it still cocked and pull the trigger it fires. 1. It shouldn't. But this gun has a pretty wild recoil. 2. That happens on mine too, tough it can be only fired once if you put it in safe again. I assume it is due to the mod I did on the hammer which makes semi trigger pulls better(altough rarely I get a 2 round burst on semi). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted May 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2016 1. It shouldn't. But this gun has a pretty wild recoil. 2. That happens on mine too, tough it can be only fired once if you put it in safe again. I assume it is due to the mod I did on the hammer which makes semi trigger pulls better(altough rarely I get a 2 round burst on semi). 1. The cocking handle wears because the indentation that allowsit to lock in place isn't shaped correctly and wear out. You need to get a dremel and make the area sharper. A common problem on the SMG 8 and MP7 2. The safety issue happens, no solution for that. Mine is the same. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tw1tch Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Fair enough. Take it the steel trigger kit doesn't fix it? Was looking into buying it anyway along with looking at the hop mods. Also does anyone know how easy it is to remove the inner barrel from the angrygun MP7 suppressor? Got one coming in but don't want a restrictor disc as I'd like to run it unsuppressed sometimes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blobface Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 I got the angry gun suppressor, it's very easy to remove the inner barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tw1tch Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Happy days. Just got to source the T1 and a sling now and it's set up for shenanigans. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NightFury Posted August 30, 2016 Report Share Posted August 30, 2016 I tried putting a thin layer of epoxy on my z parts hammer. The bolt no longer shows signs of new wear on it. I also found that this kept my stock WE 74 hammer from snapping just as well as putting a sorbo on it. So maybe epoxy might turn out to be a cheap easy fix for most WE gbbs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richwuk Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Finally purchased one of these I couldn't feel any mush on the trigger but still took the hammer out to look for it! I think WE have made a change (attached). Mine also seems to have the trigger spring replaced with a spacer and do feel the trigger could do with a little more weight as the safety is catching the body 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richwuk Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 Or not attached... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tw1tch Posted December 7, 2016 Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 Anyone (preferably UK based) prepared to part with their thread adapter? Can't find mine and pretty desperate to fit this AAC can. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted December 7, 2016 Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 Do you know what the thread is on the outer? I imagine it wouldn't take much effort to machine an adaptor. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tw1tch Posted December 9, 2016 Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 Managed to grab one of KYAIRSOFT so hopefully that comes in soon and I can work on finishing up this project. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted February 3, 2018 Report Share Posted February 3, 2018 I have the odd problem of the trigger sometimes doing nothing. This happens randomly(and usually at the worst time) and sometimes the hammer drops after I pull the trigger a few times, other times I need to pull the bolt back again. Nothing seems to be broken tough Im gonna give it another look. Any ideas? Could this be due to the mod to the hammer? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Batmause Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 I saw a time the internal firing switch worned, that is why it wasn't in the right position. Also check the auto and the normal sear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted February 9, 2018 Report Share Posted February 9, 2018 Finally had time do disassemble it. All parts seem fine except for the pin that holds the hammer spring in tension(part 043). It bend pretty hard at the two notches due to the pressure of the spring or so it seems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NightFury Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 Trigger pulled and nothing happens. Found out the trigger was moving around on the spacer. Enough that the right side trigger notch didn't engage the trigger bar. Nothing a few aeg shims can't remedy. Anyone else have the same issue? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 Yeah that was actually my problem. It is further escalated by the replacement parts from Kyairsoft. The new springs are much weaker and the new trigger bar actually doesn't have it's built in spring anymore. I can't release the hammer without somehow giving the spring more pressure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted November 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2018 (edited) Since I went to a steel hammer/trigger sear set there has been no wear. http://shop.kic.tw/portal_c1_cnt_page.php?owner_num=c1_33589&button_num=c1&folder_id=7632&cnt_id=88590&search_field=all_field&search_word=smg8&search_field2=&search_word2=&search_field3=&search_word3=&bool1=&bool2=&search_type=1&up_page=1 But the hammer, will then wear out the bolt carrier due to a few design issues. Long story short, WE's hammer design, when replicated with steel, will wear the valve release areas on the bolt carrier. The biggest issue isn't that. It is over time, the pin that holds the striker in place will bend from impact, leading to a decrease in FPS and irratic full auto. To solve this you need to temper the pin, and then modify the mechbox so that striker assembly stops not by where the pins stop, but at the front of the striker area. So far, no other issues have popped up. Edited November 4, 2018 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted November 5, 2018 Report Share Posted November 5, 2018 (edited) Currently I have the issue of the gun freezing fast. You can feel the gun shooting weaker one-by-one until it just spews all the gas out. But when I checked the striker seem to work fine(the pin slightly came out but didn't seem to be bend) and the nozzle also had no visible problems. Rocket valve moves fine and the sealing is also ok, tough I changed the nozzle o-ring to a new 13.5x2 one(is that the right size?). Magazines are good too. I must be missing something. Oh also I found that for me the steel part 49# eats part of the bolt away causing it to eventually get stuck from deformation. Edited November 5, 2018 by Zereck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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