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3vi1-D4n

"New Wave" Small Rice 7 (MP7) Review

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Installed an aeg stock spring as buffer. Had to dremel canals for the spring to fit securely. Crazy rof after the mod. :)

 

Yeah, right ? :D

 

Thats a lot of hurt right there.  Already at 16*C its hitting 400fps, increasing the ROF is probably not the best thing :P

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

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My first post had a photo attached to it. But i don't think it uploaded properly... i hope this one would.

 

That makes a lot of sense. I was hoping that that spring would lessen the stress on the parts that are in constant contact. And i did not think it through thoroughly at that time. I may be putting the nozzle and hop chamber into a higher risk of shattering. would shortening the "buffer spring" ok?

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The return is faster yes, but the only real stress is the impact between the bolt and the mechbox.  This isn't the marui where the nozzle and hop unit stops the impact of the bolt, this is a WE.

 

The buffer spring needs to be long/stiff enough to reduce the bolt's impulse to the rear of the gun, while short enough to allow the bolt lock to function.

 

 

What I meant before, was that it wasn't the best thing for the guy on the receiving end of a 1100rpm 400fps CQB weapon LOL

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

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That's what I did as well. I glued two big soft O-rings to that back plate instead of a spring. Doesn't increase rof but it sure does dampen the impact; recoil seems to be cut in half.

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had to replace the spring with a thick rubber material as buffer.. the cut end of the spring made deep scars on the rear part of the bolt. Im missing the crazy rof though...   :angry:

Heat the spring and give it a flat end to bounce off?

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Update:

 

Installed the zpart hammer and sear set. Guess what?

 

It wouldn't even fire. The hammer had the same problem as the stock hammer, and had to be grinded down so the trigger would release.

 

But at least, yay for steel! Lets see how long that lasts.

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Update:

 

Installed the zpart hammer and sear set. Guess what?

 

It wouldn't even fire. The hammer had the same problem as the stock hammer, and had to be grinded down so the trigger would release.

 

But at least, yay for steel! Lets see how long that lasts.

 

Did you heat treat the Z-parts hammer after grinding it down? Think its necessary?

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Calbur20 left with me his New Wave Small Rice (MP7) to fix up. He had mangled the trigger bar spring which I was to fabricate a new replacement for and find out why it was having difficulty applying sufficient hop up on heavier bbs. First I found the inner barrel window to be roughly cut with lots of burs making the width of the window too narrow to properly fit the hop mound of the installed Maple Leaf rubber. Filing and cleaning the window down and modifying the hop arm to take regular hop nubs also allowed it to push the hop rubber further down as the stock dimensions were a little too short. In addressing the trigger issues, I noticed that the SR MP7 was completely missing its trigger spring which seems to have been omitted as there was no sign of one ever being installed even from the factory. This meant that all the trigger tension relied on the small tension spring of the trigger bar alone. After making a replacement trigger bar torsion spring I also made an improved version using thicker gauge wire and fabricated a newly designed trigger spring along with it. The two combined has given a more consistent trigger pull weight which gets rid of most of the initial mushy feeling as well as effectively put an audible trigger reset which was absent on the original factory specifications.

 

Hop arm modification.

10407188_10153346237880744_6224150185808

 

Chamber view with about 50% of the adjuster on. Previously, this much of the rubber protruding was already at the adjusters maximum depth.

10806447_10153346237785744_5149706455975

 

Improved trigger bar spring at left, stock copy in the middle, and newly designed trigger spring on the right.

10556516_10153346237850744_6383793838772

 

When replacing the trigger bar spring, don't put one in that has too much tension. It makes reset louder, but can push upwards on the trigger bar too much that it disengages it on full auto setting.

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You mean the springs? The trigger spring maybe, got plenty of .5mm wire laying about. But I'm running out of the 1mm which I used for the trigger bar. Personally though I think 1mm was too thick which is why I had to drastically reduce the angle of the arms lowering the pre loaded tension. If I were to make more I'd use .7-.8mm wire (original is .59mm) and copy the dimensions of the original design which should give just the right amount of tension needed.

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Here's an odd question... Just got hold of the trade plate kit for this, does anyone know which way around the silver metal plate that fits between the stock & the grip go?

It's worth checking a real steel version (not that too many of us have access to them!) the only review I can find that mentions it just says that the KWA and KSC have them turned around different ways...

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I've skimmed through the topic and it seems that ultimately, this MP7 will fail on it's plastic receiver.

 

We can mod and upgrade the weapon but if it's receiver cracks, then it's all been for nothing. I. Had started reading the topic thinking that I might get this New Wave MP7 because it's loud and has big Kick back.

 

I wonder if current/ new batches may have improved receivers?

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I've skimmed through the topic and it seems that ultimately, this MP7 will fail on it's plastic receiver.

 

We can mod and upgrade the weapon but if it's receiver cracks, then it's all been for nothing. I. Had started reading the topic thinking that I might get this New Wave MP7 because it's loud and has big Kick back.

 

I wonder if current/ new batches may have improved receivers?

 

 

Isn't this the same as on the Marui and the KSC?  While I haven't heard of the Marui breaking, I have seen the KSC break at the rear, and the KSC had much less kick.  They still functioned with the breakage.

 

I don't know if the WE MP7 (or the KSC or Marui) was ever designed to work in the High 30*C range (>100*F), I guess only thorough testing/field trials will tell.  There is no buffering on the rear of the WE MP7 so perhaps simple sorbo may suffice to protect the rear from breaking.

 

I have a WE G36 and the bolt carrier system is secured in place by 1 pin and 1 half pin (so in 3 positions on the plastic receiver).  I haven't heard anyone break their WE G36 receivers yet.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

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I've only come across one that fractured one of its pin holes off. Wasn't even heavily used, just for plinking as the owner doesn't skirmish. But it broke while being fired as a pistol. Having the stock shouldered would mean transferring much of the energy to the shooter. And a bit of reinforcement in the way of a recoil buffer goes a long way.

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I haven't opened up the gun down to only the framework yet, but is there space to alradite a thin metal sheet or something as reinforcement? 

Edited by blobface

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Ooops! Just busted my sliding stock catch! There's a spare in the box so no biggie, might pass the old one on to an engineer friend of mine, see if I can get one made in a stronger material...

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Didnt someone on this forum put a piece of AEG spring on the back of his gun to prevent it from breaking? I even saw pictures...

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