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vorpalbunnie

APS CAM870 Impressions

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The Serbu is the closest they have done...

You could get that, add the RS grip and fore. Presto, change-o...

 

I'm under the impression that it's basically impossible to get the real MCS pump grip, unfortunately.

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Unless you want to spend the $2600 plus stamp fees for the real package.

 

I have some LEO strings I might be able to pull to order parts. Unfortunately that still leaves the REM LOC quick-change stock system, the two stocks, shorter mag tube, and short barrel rings.

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Currently fixing an SGA 870 for a mate. Brand new and it's got a lot of teething problems mostly with the internal parts being too sharply machined and biting into each other. Maybe I missed it, but this thing's got a stainless steel hammer, sear, and plungers which was new to me and this is supposed to be a stock unit apart from the Magpul parts.

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So faffing about with my friend's shotgun, it appears I've successfully developed a DIY wad if anyone's interested. Can be made of 100% recycled materials along with the crimp cover and literally takes half a minute to make reducing cost to practically nothing really. Performance is at par with the original plastic wad but I made a more involved paper mache wad which halves group size as the wad stays with the bbs for a bit farther before separating.

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Ok, here goes.

 

1. To start you'll need a paper bag to cut out discs about 4cm in diameter. You can fold a bag over a couple or so times so that every cutout you make churns out more than just one disc at a time.

IMG_7425.jpg

 

2. Next you get a tube to form the wad along with three of the paper discs. The one below is a 1/4" pvc pipe but you can literally use anything, even rolled up cardboard as long as the outer diameter is no more than 16mm (ideally between 15.5-6mm) and has a hole in the middle. Also, chamfer and bevel one end of the tube so it doesn't cut into the paper for the next steps.

IMG_7426.jpg

 

3. With the chamfered/beveled end towards the paper, roughly center it and press into the back with your finger to create a dimple. The dimple is needed so it doesn't push against the valve stem of the APS shells.

IMG_7427.jpg

 

4. Crease the paper all the way around which will be the starting point of the crimp. I like to make six just to make it tidy and even.

IMG_7430.jpg

IMG_7431.jpg

 

5. Orient the folds in one direction and ram the whole thing into a shell. I don't have APS shells with me now so I used a tube with a similar inner diameter.

IMG_7432.jpg

 

6. At this point the shell can be loaded with bbs directly or if you're using a substitute like mine, you can just pop it out for future use (also shown below some DIY cardboard covers cut out with a sharpened 3/4" pipe).

IMG_7433.jpg

IMG_7436.jpg

 

And these are the paper mache wads. They're harder to make since it uses glue and several strips of paper, but they tighten groups significantly. Shooting at a 20m target, all the bbs were still patterning within the width of a person.

IMG_7437.jpg

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I think this is the best topic to ask :)

 

I'm looking at the APS CAM870 Magnum but I'm confused by the product pictures showing different wood parts.. I like the print on the stock and foregrip on this picture:

http://www.popularairsoft.com/files/imagesnew/ehobbyasia_aps_cam870.jpg

 

But that is not how it comes in the box is it? Looking trough reviews I only see the wood parts without the print.. Could anyone clear this up? Thanks :)

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I think this is the best topic to ask :)

 

I'm looking at the APS CAM870 Magnum but I'm confused by the product pictures showing different wood parts.. I like the print on the stock and foregrip on this picture:

http://www.popularairsoft.com/files/imagesnew/ehobbyasia_aps_cam870.jpg

 

But that is not how it comes in the box is it? Looking trough reviews I only see the wood parts without the print.. Could anyone clear this up? Thanks :)

 

I think you would have to get real Remington wood furniture to get that looks. Forend is drop in fit, stock requires minor mods and possibly new mounting hardware.

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Yeah you "need" this tool or something similar to do the job. http://www.aps-concept.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_115&product_id=481

Some real forend kits come with a tool included.

 

Here are the basic steps.

 

REF: http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Remington-/870-Express-sid2.aspx

 

  1. Undo the magazine tube end cap (part 33).
  2. Remove magazine tube spring and follower (parts 35 and 37). (not really required but just makes it easier to work on.)
  3. Remove the outer barrel (part 3).
  4. Undo the forend retainer cap (part 83).
  5. Slide forend off towards the front of the gun (part 97).

Then just replace the forend with your new one and reverse the steps.

 

RS forends are drop in fit but may be a little bit tight. But I didn't have to mod anything to fit my two different RS forends.

 

There is no need to remove the pump action arms from the receiver when doing this. It's just a real PITA so don't do it :D

Edited by NonEx
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Hi guys,

 

So I've got my hands on a 870M but it has an issue :(
I can return it to the shop under guarantee but I don't think it's a big issue:

With a shell loaded (pull back & push forward on the action bar) and pulling the trigger it doesn't fire. The hammer is not released.

Only when I hold the trigger in and press the action bar lock a bit, it fires..

 

I've taken the trigger assembly out to check for any broken parts or something but it all looks in perfect shape..

With the trigger assembly out of the 870 the same thing happens, the 'action bar lock' has to be pushed in a bit before the trigger releases the hammer. I've compared the trigger assembly with pictures of other 870 assemblies and all the parts seem to be in the right spot.

Does anybody have any idea what could be wrong? It would be a shame to ship it back to the shop and wait for months before it returns :(

Thanks!

 

All the best,

LJ

Edited by LJ.NL

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I've had a CAM870 with the same issue out of the box, but unlike yours only with the trigger assembly fitted.  I'll share my solution in case it brings you any help.

 

I had to gently file down the angle shown below on the rear of the cradle arm that engages with the trigger assembly.  I had to round it very slightly on the outer edge to get it to release smoothly when each shell was loaded and the arm was in its furthermost front position as it was just catching and preventing it from resetting properly.

 

post-66485-0-72528700-1449529163_thumb.jpg
 

For completeness here is the opposite mating part linked to the action bar lock that slides over that angle in the cradle arm (I lightly filed the upper edge but it likely didn't need it):

 

post-66485-0-00746000-1449529158_thumb.jpg

 

Can you freely move that part with the assembly out, or is there friction?  With the hammer locked back (safety on to protect your fingers!) you should be able to freely move it with only light sprung resistance and the action bar lock should more smoothly.  The carrier 'leg' on this side was very slightly misaligned on one of mine (it was twisted slightly).  I've taken the trigger out of one to look at it and if the carrier is twisted inwards at the bottom it can touch the action bar lock and cause it to jam when the hammer is locked back (it should release again when the cradle arm moves forward).  I can also see some light wear where the trigger connector touches the body of the trigger assembly so it might benefit from some grease along that face of the body.  If that were to catch it would also prevent the trigger resetting properly, but on mine there is too much free movement for it to stay caught as it is not under tension.

 

To test it out if you pull the trigger to release the hammer but the action bar lock is not allowed to return properly then the next trigger pull will not disengage the hammer.  The trigger will also have no resistance to the pull.  It's hard to capture on camera but if it looks like the top picture after locking the hammer back then it has not reset properly so look for the cause of the friction.  It should look like the bottom picture:

 

post-66485-0-64803100-1449530864_thumb.jpg

 

post-66485-0-62947700-1449530869_thumb.jpg

 

You say "only when I hold the trigger in and press the action bar lock a bit, it fires" and I can reproduce that by preventing the trigger connector from fully resetting.

 

If you have not already read them, you might find the following two threads on a different forum useful:
http://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=162618&page=3
http://airsoftcanada.com/showpost.php?p=1911329&postcount=3

On the second link near the bottom N_Force shows some adjustments you can make to the trigger set that may help you.  I see he has applied grease to the face I mentioned above, possibly to help prevent this problem.

 

Also, APS made a video for removing and reinstalling the trigger assembly which if you've not done it before may be helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJiRtURPPy4

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Thank you very much for taking the time to share this! I'll go over every step when I get back from work, but I can already tell the trigger assembly looks like the 'top picture', so it's not resetting correctly ineed :)

I'll report back later, hopefully with a working trigger :D

 

Thanks again!

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While having breakfast (with my shotgun, how much fun is that :D) I made a few pictures showing how the cradle arm and 'action bar lock'-arm are currently positioned:

 

After pulling back on the action arm (hammer cocked/locked back):

02.jpg

 

And I found out that if I place the 'action bar lock'-arm on the very end of the cradle arm, by pulling back the action arm slightly, the hammer is release when pulling the trigger:

03.jpg
The bold is not fully closed like this, it's about 3-4mm open. Once the hammer is release by pulling the trigger the bolt slams forward and close that last 3-4mm gap.


After firing it looks like this (the action arm lock is disengaged.. ?) :

01.jpg

I'll take out the trigger assembly tonight, and try to capture how it functions.

 

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