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vorpalbunnie

APS CAM870 Impressions

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The barrel has a small ball gold sight

 

7620a9c6280405912bb29c798be259c6.jpg

 

On the side it has RS markings

dde97358f4c6380892171846e3cf8f5f.jpg

 

From the right side

 

79e571aaa51819873403dedaf4868fc8.jpg

 

Closeup from the left side

 

2bd829c6ee24500502dc71db5cf8d77b.jpg

Edited by Cesare
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Racking this baby is an absolute delight with a nice ka-tschuck sound.

Next thing is to get a RS cradle so that I can use the upgraded bolt. The mag cap seems to have RS specs but haven't tried it out yet. If so I guess I could also used a prolonged RS magazinetube.

 

Final note on the bolt is that it is not Steel as advertised I believe all parts including the base is steel but a magnet reveals that the main body is not. I believe it is a chunk of aluminum, doesn't really bother me but anyway.

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Could be stainless steel which is non ferrious. Seems like BS if they advertise it as steel if it isn't :o

 

Nice, I am kind of jelly but I can't justify the price to be honest.

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OK people, what kind of range are you getting with long model's?

 

Does it matter? I kinda want one for trench work but I want to use a something to simulate a slug.

 

I'd have to even run this by the "admins".

Edited by Alias1983

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I haven't done much range tests myself but from what I have seen and read the bottom line is this: This is a CQB oriented shotgun.

 

The longest range I have seen mentioned that it "works" up to is like 25-30 meters. But that sounds far IMO.

 

I would say, 15-25 at best if you want to be sure.

 

Slugs. Well, rubber paintballs that fit nicely in the shells were measured at 10 Joules coming out of the long version so... :| 

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Like I said I have to discuss a few things with the "admins" as they have no rulings for shotguns let alone this.

 

As it is no one here I can 100% guarantee have never handled one of these so I do want to make this field able.

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I have a dumb question for those who own one of these awesome shotguns, and please bare with me--I have no clue what the correct terminology is:

 

How do you load the weapon?  By that, I mean exactly what motions do you go through?  Seems my action is not smooth at all unless I load a shell directly into the barrel, move the front hand guard forward, then load a shell into the magazine tube from below (I only have two shells right now.)  This leads to the second question:  are you guys leaving the breech open?  Because if you rack the hand guard forward after firing all the shells, the trigger is cocked or loaded.  And as discussed earlier, it's a BAD idea to dry fire...

 

If I close the action (hand guard forward), load shells from the bottom, then use the little release button to allow the hand guard to come back, the action is VERY difficult, requiring brute force to complete the maneuver.  Leaving the breech open to load means removing the shell catcher, which I would prefer to use. 

 

I don't think it matters, but I have the breacher version.

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I don't see how first loading a shell in the chamber/barrel would make subsequent loading of shells by pump action from the magazine tube easier or smoother?

 

Is that what you are saying is happening?

 

I would think that dry firing your last shell would be better long term than to leave your hammer cocked. If your firing pin breaks APS offers replacement ones that are reinforced.

 

I always either fire my last blank shell or on an empty chamber, but I try not to do it excessively.

 

Here is how I load mine (full lenght); 

 

  1. Starting from unloaded/uncocked position.
  2. Safety on.
  3. Bolt closed.
  4. Flip shotgun upside down to get a visual on the loading chamber. (personal preference/training thing)
  5. Load 7 shells into the magazine tube one after another.
  6. Rack the pump action/bolt once to load a shell in the chamber.
  7. Load shell number 8 into the magazine tube for a total of 7+1.

 

I have my shell catcher on too, so this way I get all ammo in there without having to load one via the breach.

 

 

As for a sticky pump action, check out these tips I wrote down after doing maintenance on mine.

 

 

Problem: Heavy resistance / sluggish rearward movement of the bolt when cycling the bolt.
 
Cause: Too much friction on the for-end tube assembly/cradle arm.
 
Solution: A) Polish (key word being polish. Do NOT take off too much!) the insides of the magazine cradle sides where the actuator arms of the for-end tube assembly/cradle arm interface. See image 9. B) Polish (see earlier comment) the surfaces of the arms opn the forend tube assembly/cradle arm. See image 10. C) Lubricate on the contacting surfaces between for-end pump arms and magazine cradle for smoother action. See image 9 and 10. D) Lubricate the outside surfaces of the bolt. E) Lubricate the inside surfaces of the reciever. F) Lubricate the contact surfaces of the internals (bolt to hammer etc.)
 
 
nx_aps_cam870_problems_9.jpg
 
nx_aps_cam870_problems_10.jpg
 
That being said, you can't rack this thing like a wuss :P
 
Even though I have done the above adjustments I still have to put some force into the pump action. Thought not like "break the damn thing" type of force.
Edited by NonEx

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I seem to have shells jamming.  When pumping the gun without shells, the action is smooth.  When loading as you do, the shell jams--when I pump to load--and excessive force is required to open the bolt to get the shell loose.  And I think the lift plate thingy doesn't move right, but I don't know how it is supposed to.  Sometimes it feels like it is binding, others it feels smooth.  Is it always supposed to be able to move up and down, you know, spring loaded?  Because mine doesn't always.

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Yeah. I know this one too :D

 

Your shell latch prongs are bent out of shape causing the action to bind up.

 

The more you force the rearward action the more the parts will deform and/or bend.

 

As for the shell lifter, with the action and bolt forward, cocked or not, it will move up and down with spring motion. It will bind up if your action is not working right and shells are getting caught. The lift of the shell lifter is based on the bolt being able to move freely rearwards.

 

When the action and bolt is rearward it will not spring up and down freely. It can be pushed up and down with some force though. This is because in that position you are putting spring tension on the shell lifter to stay up until you rack the action forwards loading a shell in the barrel.

 

It's kind of hard to explain.

 

If you flip the shotgun upside down, and look back to front. One the right hand side for-end arm there is an angular cut in front of the receiver.

When you cycle the pump action back that catches the front prongs of the (in upside down back to front position) right hand side shell latch arm prongs.

If they are not caught correctly you will either get no shells feeding in the chamber or the action binding up.

To fix it you would have to take out the shell latch arms and bend the most forward prong (again upside down view, back to front) outwards to the right of the receiver. So that it can catch correctly.

Problem is if you bend it too much then you might get problems with shells double feeding or not feeding at all :o

 

I also lightly filed down the angular cuts on my for-end arms to make it easier for the shell latch arm prongs to end up on the outside of the for-end arms.

 

Try having the shotgun upside down, shells in the tube, use a flashlight and pump the action backwards slowly while looking what is happening to the shell latch prongs. They sit just inside of the rear most of the magazine tube.

 

nx_cam870_shell_latch_prongs.jpg

 

As you move the action towards the rear, from the view depicted above, the right hand side should catch on the angled cut-out on the (again from this angle) right-hand side shell latch arm prong, pushing it outwards, releasing a shell into the chamber (under the shell lifter). Once that shell has slid out, but not fully, the left-hand side shell latch arm will pop out, stopping the next shell from going in and double feeding.

 

nx_cam870_shell_latch_prongs_picture.jpg

 

Orientation reference as per the picture and description above. (Actually R should be flipped so the thin prong is down and thick prong up to be more precise.)

 

R = Right-hand side shell latch arm (upside down, back to front).

R1 = Is what is on the outside of the magazine tube, being caught by the angular cut on the for-end action arm.

R2 = Is what is on the inside of the magazine tube, holding the shells back until R1 is engaged.

 

L = Left-hand side shell latch arm (upside down, back to front). 

L1 = Is what is on the outside of the magazine tube, being caught by the angular cut on the for-end action arm.

L2 = Is what is on the inside of the magazine tube, holding the next shell back after R1 is engaged and R2 moved out of the way.

 

If you bend 1 or 2 too much either way you mess up the required offset for the mechanism to work. So you might have to experiment a bit.

 

 

It could also be that your firing pin shell alignment "hub" (the round thing at the front of the firing pin) is out of position (either too far forward, or rotated). It should sit flush with the front end of the firing pin. And the angled parts should be facing downwards.

 

I did not get far enough to make detailed instructions on this.

 

It's kinda of advanced troubleshooting but I know the ins and outs of this thing by now so let me know if ya need more help. Also, look for info on real Remington 870 shotguns because they are like 99% similar in action and function.

Edited by NonEx
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WOW--that is a big help! :) :) :)

 

My lifter works exactly as you described, so my problem seems to lie in the forks.  I will inspect the action as you've outlined.

 

Thanks very much!

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I had to become a self-taught expert over a weekend a few weeks ago when I tore mine down like 4-5 times and messed with it :P

 

You learn quickly when your favorite airsoft gun isn't working properly, hehe.

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I am STHLM based

 

It is a piece of art!

 

that is not far from where i am, i will track you down, and i will fondle your gun ;-) All joking aside it looks absolutely amazing hope to meet you and the gun when i am playing around sthlm

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That sounds great you can live in my house, drive my car borrow my clothes

and Pry my gun out of my cold dead hands

 

And if you ever get that far then by all means; fondle and caress away

 

No but seriously I am sure we can meet up if you are ever in the neighbourhood

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Don't those need to be brazed onto the barrel and receiver?

 

With the standard alloy receiver it probably isn't possible to install them (brazing type needed for the materials is different).

 

With that steel kit it probably is, but for the price of the kit you'd better get a professional gunsmith to install it and not someone who'll ruin the whole receiver with poor brazing.

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Have not read to much about it.

But I think you don't need brazing but drilling/tapping and then crazy glue it with epoxy. Don't see why that couldn't be done. Actually got so many parts over when I bought the steel kit so by just buying some additional parts I have yet another aps cam. I really would like to do a SBS version and the classic one requires scattergun sights.

Afaik there has never been any AS replicas made? There was a version made by Airsoft surgeon on a Tanaka but that could well have been the real deal.

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what does  numbers and the letter in the serial number mean ? Mine is probably a early example since i have "cam870m14c 000032" my friends gun is stamped "cam 15g 001853" what are the differnces

Edited by Pompe

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