mvirtue Posted September 14, 2014 Report Share Posted September 14, 2014 So we should really be loading this thing "upside down" is what you're saying ? Yup, especially you with the 88g adapter The upside down with the twin cartridges probably uses the liquid from the lower cartridge pushed by the pressure of the upper cartridge. In the right side up case the whole tube is an expansion camber and you are not getting any liquid CO2. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mvirtue Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 My shorty arrived today So the two girls had to go out and pose. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Dangit now you made me want one of each as well Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mvirtue Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Dangit now you made me want one of each as well Sorry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Whelp got my shorty version from planeman. First thing's first - going to make a Drake Magpul shotgun. Secondly, it seems the shell latches are worn or bent in a way that prevents me from loading the next shell - I might experiment on seeing if RS ones fit. And of course, due to my stupid nature, I already broke the firing pin. Will also try to see if a RS one will work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 (edited) Aaah, so that's why he never responded to my tips See my reply to planemans issue with the shell latches a few pages ago, see if that helps. If not post more pics and info and maybe we can sort it out. You can get replacement latches from APS for 12 USD a pair. RS ones may work though. RS firing pin won't work since the strike face is an outer circle, not an inner circle one. One thing to look out for, when loading the shells with CO2, if you don't get the lock-down tool in the right place (centered) you can actually have the tip hit the circled edges around the "primer" of the shell, deform the aluminum rim and this may very well be what breaks the firing pin. Because it would not be able to go into the hole it's supposed to and depress the "primer" in the shell. I have 2 shells that this has happened to. Edited September 17, 2014 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Real steel shell latches are unlikely to work since they are welded into an m870 receiver, just get the APS ones. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 That's a very good point. Saw that in a video when looking for info on installation. I think looking at Brownells schemtics they aren't even available for purchase. Yup. The video said they were staked in there, not welded, but might differ from models or year of production. Factory Discontinued29 Item(s) Found The following items have been discontinued by the factory. Click here for additional sources. #88 Shell Latch, Left #89 Shell Latch, Right http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Remington-/870-Express-sid2.aspx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 (edited) RS firing pin won't work since the strike face is an outer circle, not an inner circle one. From what I've seen from an APS bolt disassembly video, it seems the outer ring simply is friction fit onto an internal "firing pin". Curious, but when the trigger is pulled, which part of the "firing pin" actually sets off the CO2 in the shell? I took a look at the shell, the only moving part seems to be the inner pin. So does the actual black part of the firing pin on the bolt hit the shell? Edited September 17, 2014 by aznriptide859 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Good observation and question. I just went with what was posted previously about it being able to fire real shells. If it's the center part that is the firing pin and striking the '"primer" in the CO2 shell then, hurp durp... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Guess what came today. Guess what fit without a hitch. Perfect fit. Only problem was the adapter screw - it's Imperial (I assume, since it started stripping the rear of my receiver). I had to swap it with a metric one I found in my parts box. Otherwise, perfect fit. A bit ticked off that the rail isn't what I was expecting though. I'll have to contact Midway and see if there's anything they can do about it. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 I can never get over how the contours of those stocks only barely match those of the receiver. its looks sort of like if someone glued legos to an M870. To each his own though. How did you manage to break your firing pin btw? Im just wondering if it happened like mine, where it happened through dry firing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 (edited) Yup, dry firing. Heard a "ping" one day - front just flew out of the barrel. I dry fire my weapons too much lol. Edited September 19, 2014 by aznriptide859 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 (edited) If you had read my previous posts about the screws you would of known it was metric Also like I said check your shells for deformations/dimples around the primer on the shells, if you have metal bent in there it could be what snapped your firing pins. I've dry fired mine with and without shells maybe 100-200 times so far, no broken pin Ah wait, you mean dry firing without any shells in there at all ? Hmmm... Maybe it's like a real one where that's bad for the firing pin. Time to build some sorta snap cap contraption for empty APS CAM shells ? Also, that shotgun looks like *suitcase* bro Good to know the parts are drop in fit though. Did you fix the shell latches ? Edited September 19, 2014 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Not yet, I'll be getting the APS ones from eHobby next week. I don't see severe deformations around the primer area; I recall just firing it without a shell in it when the pin flew out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 (edited) But what's wrong with the shell latches in it now? Maybe they are just out of place at the front like i described ? Oh and I got my paper punch today. Taking some different weight paper home from work. 100, 120, 160, 250, 300. See what works and will let you know. Edited September 19, 2014 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Not sure, I tried bending it and whatnot to see if they'd work. I think the left shell latch doesn't bend in correctly to let the next shell in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mvirtue Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Put the drop tube adapter on. All I had available was the A2. And I threw the VLTOR on to see what it looked like with a stock. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Not sure, I tried bending it and whatnot to see if they'd work. I think the left shell latch doesn't bend in correctly to let the next shell in. OK, well good luck with the new shell latches Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PanteraTigris Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Put the drop tube adapter on. All I had available was the A2. And I threw the VLTOR on to see what it looked like with a stock. Sweet Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 (edited) Alright so I tried my paper punch today and some different weight paper as well. The differense in size between OEM caps and my punched out 3/4" caps are neglible from the tests I've done so far. 300gr paper feels and behaves most like the OEM paper. However, due the the minimal extra diameter, it might be too tight. It will also depend on how many BBs you load and if you end caps end up concave or convex. 250gr paper noticably more flexible and flimsy than OEM and 300gr, but thanks to the slight oversize it seems to be able to work well. 160gr paper and below. Foget about it! (NY accent) The sweet spot appears to be right around 250gr-280gr IMO. Depending on how much finesse you use to put the caps in, it may very well impact end result. For these I tried to push them in softly and evenly to make the different materials more comparable. Realisticly, when loading a lot of shells they won't look this nice I guess. Here's a pic; As you can see, besides the color diff. between OEM and 300gr, they shaped and behaved almost identically. 250gr looks worse than it is due to the transluscent shell, poor choice by me. As stated, 160gr is a no go. This is the actual size difference between OEM cap and my 3/4" 300gr punched out cap; To me, it seems that 9 or 10 BBs would be the ideal load for a good seal with the cap. 11 to 12 you start to push it and I'm not sure the paper caps will hold it in well enough, Also, depending on 9-10 or 11-12 you end up with either a concave or convex paper cap. Just thinking logically about it I would assume a convex cap gives less resistance when shooting out the wad, BBs and cap. But realistictly, if you use OEM or 250gr-280gr paper, a concave cap should be fine as well. To me the concave setup seems more secure, but I wonder what the cons are in terms of extra force and resistance when shooting. Perhaps it might even be that the extra force and pressure required to push out a concave cap is benificial for ballistics and power? Wonder how those two might affect the spread and trajectory though. Right, so when pushing the waddings, BBs and caps out from the shell bodies, from the rear, by unscrewing the rear contianer, I noticed a clear differense in force required to push out the OEM ones and the 300gr ones, in concave setup. Not sure if that's good or bad as stated above, but 250-280gr paper you should be good to go. And finally, I got my blue rubber balls! (0.68" rubber Paintballs) Fits like a glove! Definately does not need any waddings or caps. Edited September 19, 2014 by NonEx 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mvirtue Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Sweet Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DEVILHUNTER Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Can anyone measure the lengh and diameter of the shells to compare them with the AS ones? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 (edited) Here you go; Rim diam: 21.0mm Base diam: 19.62 Base total height (~tot. leng. - shell body leng.): 11.6mm Rim lip thickness: 1.6mm Total lenght: 56.5mm Shell body lenght: 45.0mm Shell body outer diam: 19.45mm Shell body inner diam: 17.09mm Anything else you need ? Hopefully it makes sense what I am refering to with the above. Edited September 19, 2014 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 And finally, I got my blue rubber balls! Fits like a glove! http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wLflICzAo0E/VBxPXFeTabI/AAAAAAAAEYQ/w8PSxnuMjcs/w1280/aps_cam_rubber_pbs.jpg What the hell is the pattern on those? They look like Dr. Manhattan's testicles. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.