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Just a quick tip. You may have noticed the grip plug at the bottom rear of the frame that holds the removable back strap in place can get loose and freely rotates. For general plinking it might not be a concern, but if you like to skirmish with the gun, and given the very limited access to OEM TM parts, you probably don't want to loose it. A simple non-permanent fix I've done on all my guns is to tightly wrap the locking nub of the grip plug with some PTFE tape. I use about an 8" strip (more or less) of PTFE tape. The grip plug will be tight as you insert it into the frame (which is good) and it'll be somewhat hard to turn the plug, but once done and locked in place it'll stay in place.

 

MnP-PTFE.jpg

 

The real grip plug in a real M&P is a serious PITA to remove. It's usually difficult to turn and even harder to extract. After this modification to your TM M&P, the TM grip plug still isn't anywhere near as difficult as the real deal to remove. But it'll keep itself from falling out. You may need to rewrap the grip plug occasionally if you like to take that plug out all the time but at least you won't loose the plug.

Edited by uscmCorps
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You can always use plumbers epoxy putty/reinforced steel epoxy and fill the safety lever hole with it. Obviously make sure you remove the internals and mask parts you dont want to get glue/putty on :))))

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One of my M&P9 mags have a leak at the bottom, if I press the baseplate down enough (into the mag) it'll stop, however with the pins inside, it still leaks.

 

I've tried:

- Soak into silicon oil for 1 week

- Teflon

- More Teflon

- EVEN MORE TEFLON - So far it's ok, should be GAMEABLE, but leaks over some days (put duster in after a game, it it was empty when I went to re-gas it)

 

Anyone have any solutions, or know where I can get some spare parts?

 

Cheers.

 

p.s. delta i'll ship out your thing soon enough. sorry :P

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I got fed up of sealing mine over and over. Got some Grey RTV Gasket and sealed the *fruitcage*ers up right good and proper.. theyve been sitting for months holding gas no issue now. The problem is the base plate design.. the Pins don't allow for any verticle tightening so you cant tighten them properly like you can with screws. 

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I got fed up of sealing mine over and over. Got some Grey RTV Gasket and sealed the *fruitcage*ers up right good and proper.. theyve been sitting for months holding gas no issue now. The problem is the base plate design.. the Pins don't allow for any verticle tightening so you cant tighten them properly like you can with screws. 

 

Perma seal it.

 

Hmm, I have this NIB at home,

 

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/permatex-blue-rtv-gasket-maker-80ml-0383783p.html#.Vo7WxfkrK9I

 

I'll give it a try I suppose. I just apply it below where the o-ring sits? Then put o-ring on? then put it ontop again? And let it cure for days?

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I put some on the O-Ring and some on the lip inside the magazine where the oring sits to be sure.. probably a bit excessive but hey, didn't want to have to be taking it all apart to re do it! I also left the magazine sitting to dry for way longer than 24hrs as I was worried the thicker areas wouldnt dry as fast.. Left the valves out to make sure there was as much air going in as possible too. 

 

That stuff will probably do.. though I've heard some sealants can react to propane or certain gases so check that out. I know for sure that grey works, I think there is a thread on here about it.

 

EDIT: 

 

This guy uses blue.. you should be fine. 

 

Edited by DeltaZero
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I've had a problem with a couple of my mags (2 out of 10). Tried the same fixes but never tried the gasket maker permanent seal. I'll give that a try. Thanks!

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Good guide here:

 

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=88524&highlight=Coachster

 

I ending up had to do all my mags this way - TM switching to the pin method of holding in the gas base is really disappointing.

 

But at least I know when my GBB fires because it now smells like *albatross*.

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Ahh that was the guide I read it wasn't from here! I'm in the process of doing it with all my mags also. Definitely the way forward. I found it helped efficiency too strangely.

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Been covered quite a bit previously in this thread. Personally I think the Detonator is better finish wise, certainly seems more robust. Mainly due to Nova using Matt finishes which mark easily. The Detonator markings are slightly crisper but not too noticeable to most people. 

 

But performance wise they're pretty much on par. 

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Regarding the S&W Pro Core, part of me wishes they went with the non-ported version as I just think the ported one is the ugliest variant they offer. But then it may be in the gun's best interest as shaving that extra weight may mean less sluggish performance when used with a RMR optic.

 

Here's hoping they make a regular M&P 9Pro or 9L.

 

I've only purchased detonator slides in the past. How does the nova brand compare?

Detonator has better finish but requires break in. Nova require zero break in and if you rub some silicone oil into the slide (wipe off excess) it'll wear less and be less matte.

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You and me both.. but Im chomping at the bit for a RMR M&P so I might have to lump it and get the ported version. 

 

I never had any issue on break in with the detonator, cycled fine stock but better after a few hundred cycles, same with the nova.. I guess it could vary.. Here is my quick review of the two slides for comparison. 

 

http://arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/213475-tokyo-marui-mp9/?p=2715139

Edited by DeltaZero

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I don't know, this is more expensive then the detonator.

 

X2 on the ported slide being non-ported. Compared @Cav 10-8 detonator slide to my nova, and his finish and trades are better and deeper. For the slide being Nova, I was hoping MAX it be is $199.99!

 

also cause 1 usd is like 0.69 cad, lol.

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It's more expensive because it includes a newly designed BBU, nozzle and the springs for it. Few other gubbins too I think.

 

but we already use aluminum :D

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