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Laaavley! I'll be having that im after a new recoil Spring! Will stick with my OCT guide rod though!

 

Looks like they've got a standard slide in the making too.

 

 

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I know but I don't order from dentrinity often.. And when I do I always get drawn in by all the other niche stuff they have haha

 

 

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UAC woes.

 

So I installed the trigger group and the hammer/striker and sear set.  Hmmm.  The sear does not slide smoothly in its groove, and the special smaller/weaker spring supplied by UAC does not seem to push it back strongly enough.  Even when I reinstalled the TM original spring, I couldn't get the sear to engage with the catch on the striker more than occasionally, and never when the whole thing was installed in the frame.  I may end up going back to all-original.  The SAPH hammer spring is 150% and while that isn't--as far as I can see--the problem (the movement of the sear plate is), it makes for a very stiff depress of the striker, which may be compounding the problem.

 

The TM VTAC internal parts in general seem nicely made, and once again I'm beginning to question how much of an "upgrade" the UAC parts really are.

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Back to original striker, sear, striker spring and sear spring.  Watching this video, he talks about and demonstrates a resistance of the sear to the striker shortly before the sear engages with the cocking mechanism.  But I just don't feel it on mine.  Pushing down the striker with my thumb is fairly easy, and while it's not a hair trigger, it breaks fairly easily.

 

After the problem I had with the fitment of the nozzle inside the BBU (filing required), gotta wonder about the on-going quality control of UAC's machining--thinking particularly of the catchiness/non-smoothness of the travel of the UAC sear inside the hammer group.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCETvoQ86N8

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Had the same issue with the trigger parts originally.. Took some filing and a lot of lapping and they finally played ball. But im not sure it was worth it to be honest.. My other M&P doesn't have them and it works just the same really.

 

 

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Trigger parts or hammer parts?

 

 

BTW, can anyone specify exactly what the differences are in the internals of the original TM black M&P9 and the later tan V-Custom model?

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Sorry hammer parts

 

Not sure on the differences between the VTAC and original. But the UAC hammer parts worked a lot better in the VTAC donor I had than the standard donor. 

Edited by DeltaZero

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I am still unconvinced about a lot of the internal upgrades people are doing for these guns. Stock, the gun runs flawlessly. Even upgrading the slide to a metal slide, the gun still runs perfectly on stock internal parts. On one of my guns I had to upgrade the recoil spring to a 150% but that was it.

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It's nice to put a lighter weight BBU and ally nozzle in it IMO.. Helps keep things snappy but really I don't think anything else is needed. Main reason I've sorted things is just because I had it open and thought why not..

 

 

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In my experience the "Why not" philosophy on getting parts and installing them is bad :P

 

I remember doing some of my insane Guarder kitted custom builds (M9, 1911, Glock etc.) way back, getting every available upgrade part and sticking it in the guns and they ran way worse than on stock parts... :o

 

Hmmm, come to think of it this is exactly what I am doing with my new Guarder x KJW Glock 19 build lol.

EDIT: Kinda not. Building it without a host gun so I have to get the "upgrade" parts.

Edited by NonEx
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Some people were experiencing a lot of resistance from the striker when the back-moving slide pushed it down, and likewise a less-than-great trigger pull.  But I've got to think that that was more on the original black M&P9 rather than the V-Custom model.  The UAC mods, the new striker, the new sear, and the sear spring, are designed to alleviate those problems--if they exist.  The sear spring is definitely very light weight compared to the beefiness of the original TM spring.  But... if the mods don't even work--if the striker won't even catch on the sear--then the "improvements" become moot.  Kind of like NonEx, this was going to be an all-out build for me, and I wanted to try all the options.  I think it's important to report the results, so people doing web searches may find these reports and be able to use the input to decide accordingly.

 

Pics coming when I get some decent light.

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The bad trigger pull was an issue on the initially released TM M&Ps and that could be fixed with a little filing. No new parts were needed. All the current M&Ps shipped within the last year, both the black and VTAC versions came with the trigger pulls corrected. I've confirmed this with over 7 M&Ps acquired in different shipments. The trigger feels almost the same as the real steel triggers, except TM's feel lighter and smoother. Trigger pull isn't really something that needs to be "fixed" on this gun. If you're going for a particular trigger pull feel that isn't necessarily realistic, but is specific to how you would like it to feel, that's another matter and will obviously vary according to the individual. I just don't want people thinking that the OEM trigger is bad. It isn't. It's very good in fact.

 

Recoil snappiness is obviously a far cry from the RS, and again very personal to which I'd say go with whatever floats your boat.

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Another reason for me personally: I like over engineering. In airsoft I'd like all parts Alu or even steel. Replace abs with DuPont polymer. Loving the sound of an all steel replica too. I know it isn't cost effective, but Airsoft always seems to go ' good enough for most ' on me. In ideal cases I want to use/rough use my replica's for 20 years without parts crumbling. Hate zamac, alu/zink known as monkeymetal for that reason. So replace everything ^^.

 

Ps. I do understanf that everything crumbles. But imagine replica's with the same quality standards of regular fire arms, designed and made by the swiss perhaps? ^^

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Nice. Cerakoted the slide? Which color did you go with? Why only the right side thumb safety?

 

My weekly shooting partner writes for Japan's Arms Magazine and we recently did an article comparing the RS G34 vs M&P 9L vs XDM 5". We're trying to convince TM to do the 9L. :D

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I really wanted the regular 5" slide, rather than any of the variants with cut-outs.*  The only place that still had it in stock was KIC, and with their exchange rate and shipping, I ended up paying through the nose.

 

Cerakote=burnt bronze.  The underlying hues are "warm" in the burnt bronze and "cool" in the color of the frame; in retrospect I should probably have got it done too.

 

The left side safety annoyed me because it obstructed getting to the slide release.  When I discovered the right-side one had the long axle and the detent mechanism, I decided to leave it (best of both worlds?).

 

* I do like the Performance C. slide, but I didn't plan on mounting an RMR, and if I'm not mistaken, you have to go with the extra-high sights on that slide, which I wasn't keen on.

 

A TM M&P9L would be great!  I had to cut down and lap a hi-capa inner barrel to get the advantage of the extra 3/4".

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Kind of surprised at how long it took Guarder to get products out for the TM M&P platform, but they sure have caught up by now :D

 

Also wtf is up with that metal inlay in the grip of the tan frame in the background :P

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As much as I like the look and feel of a steel slide, are people ever able to get steel slided guns to run properly and efficiently?

 

All about the recoil :l

 

Buddy has one for his HK45, modded it to run two recoil springs? (One underneath the original one) Kicks so hard...

 

but can't clear a mag :D

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