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DeltaZero

Cybergun/VFC FNX-45

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Might try swap mine to green ones. The purples do what I want but are just too dark.

 

Thinking maybe red rear and a green up front. Or vice versa. Suppose it all depends on if I can remove the old ones that I might've superglued in...

 

Now quick question. Anyone got a front sight that doesn't wobble much, take a pic of the screw inside the slide?

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

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I have got same problem with Front Sight. It's because of wrong screw used for it. Original screw have no cap so it's only hold front sight in place, but not fix it in place.

 

16709039874_755316c5de_o.jpg

 

(Original at left, modified M3 screw at right)

 

You have to replace screw.

 

ATTENTION: If your will use Tritium vials, DO NOT OVERTIGHT. Screw may break vial and Tritium will be released. It's really danger.

Measure screw size very carefully!

 

ALSO: If your have got plans to install Tritium vials, your have to install screw first, then add glue and only after that insert vial. If your add glue and insert vial - glue fill hole for screw from inside and your will not be able to tight screw. IMPORTANT: If your did this mistake and use force to tight screw - glue also may break Tritium vial inside front sight.

 

Be very carefull with front sight! Rear sight don't have that problem. All holes are independent.

Edited by rusTORK
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Might try swap mine to green ones. The purples do what I want but are just too dark.

 

Thinking maybe red rear and a green up front. Or vice versa. Suppose it all depends on if I can remove the old ones that I might've superglued in...

 

Now quick question. Anyone got a front sight that doesn't wobble much, take a pic of the screw inside the slide?

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

How did you insert the tritium sights? did you use heat-shrink and is it safe to apply heat to the vials?

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I used heat shrink to buff it up to the right size and a dab of glue.

 

I was very quick with the heat on it with a blow torch from distance. It doesn't take much heat to shrink it though. Probably a more gentle way to do it.

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Oh, I thought they were a perfect fit?

 

In that case I would rather wrap electric tape around them to get a snug fit and then a drop of glue when inserting them.

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Posting my initial impressions here as well.

 

Also, I found from watching videos on the real thing that the magazine drop issues are present on the real one as well, so +1 for realism :D 

 

 

Found a few things after playing with it some more.

 

In the ejection port left-hand side they have laser engraved "Licensed by FN Herstal". See reference picture here : http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/pistols-gbb-smgs/cybergun/cybergun-fnx-45-tactical-gbb-pistol-black.html#.VedSNvmqpBe

 

Can't recall seeing that on the tan one anywhere?

 

Will try to remove with some nail polish remover or cover up with Birchwood pen.

 

The slide lock has a tendency to hang up on the frame when trying to power stroke the slide due to the left-hand side release button being pressed against the frame side. Can be fixed by bending the arm a bit I suppose.

 

Double action trigger pull ended up getting stuck in half-cocked mode a hand full of times when dry firing it with a very slow and steady trigger pull. Tried to figure out how to replicate it but I can't.

 

I might be imagining things again but IMO it feels like they have rounded off the grip texture a little bit compared to the tan one I handled. It physically hurt the palms of my hands after handling it for just 10 seconds. This black one I have been playing with for much longer, and although it is aggressive it doesn't feel as bad. Not sure.

 

Magazine drop-free seems random-ish. Left-hand side button more so than right hand side. Again tried replicating this consistently but can't. Probably will get better with clean and re-lube and wear in.

 

And on that topic, inserting magazine does not really give a clear satisfying tactile click but a very diffuse "hurp"  :P

Guess you gotta Costa-slam that *suitcase* in there!  :D

 

Over all, again possibly imagining things, but it feels marginally more solid than the tan I handled. Might just be it was a worn display item.

 

And to reiterate again, the slide finishing and markings scream "cast molded" from miles away, even the serrations. But whattayagonnado. 

 

Slide color is a bit too perfectly matched black to the frame. Real one appears to have a slightly different grayish sheen on the slide itself. I.e. the slide and frame match too well in terms of color.

 

Trigger pull in SA has little to no feel on the break.

 

Safety and decocker work well and as expected. But decocker has no real tactile feel to it when using it. You only get the feel for when the hammer drops and sets in the half-cock position.

 

Again, the "lubrication" used from the factory is just a joke. Looks like they used lard or something, horror show  :o

All over, even in the lower internals  :(

Anyone have a disassembly guide? 

 

It feels pretty light for how much is on it and how big it is.

 

RMR cover plate lifted right off when hex screws were removed, no problem!

 

A1A RMR sight is not direct mountable.

 

Hmmm... what else... 

 

Yah slide racking and releasing still feels meh-ish. Could be due to the "lube". Will try another recoil spring in there since I hear this has pretty good gas efficiency out of the box.

 

But, the main positive, which was a big concern of mine until I handled the tan one in a local shop: It does not feel as big and uncomfortable as it might look to hold and handle.

 

Full ambi controls, RMR ready, raised sights, threaded and thread protected barrel, interchangeable backstraps, tactile magazine floor plate, safety and decocker and picatinny rail. Most tacticool gun out of the box so far for sure :D

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Neither do I and I have 769. Don't know how many the first batch consisted of, the second batch that was released later on had those engravings...

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I think I might figured out how to fix the half-cock position to be more realistic, i.e. more forward. Just file off material on the half-cock notch in the hammer should do it. Not sure if it will mess up anything else though. But, I suspect KIC can get me a replacement hammer for a few bucks so might be worth a try :D

 

Anyone got any guide on taking the lower apart? 

 

EDIT: 

Well I #yoloed it :P

 

 

nx_fnx_apart.JPG

 

I broke my backstrap trying to get it off. I thought it was just super tight, but turned out that I hadn't depressed the latch enough. Good thing I got real ones coming, that hopefully fit. Otherwise, KIC! :D

 

So yah, it's not supposed to take The Hulk force to get off if you depress the latch enough!

 

Hammer assembly comes out by removing a 0.9mm grup screw from the left or right hand side take down levers.

 

Looks like a pretty simple and self contained design. Will look at the hammer mech soon. Need a smoke :D

 

FYI no spring for my extractor. I will put one in there now that I got it apart.

Edited by NonEx
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I saw some photos of hammer mod at Japan Blog, but i didn't remember link.

 

Don't like to modify trigger group parts unless i have got spare parts.

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I can now tell you why most guns don't have a spring in the extractor/loaded chamber indicator.. I think too many VFC employees killed themselves out of frustration trying to insert the BBU with that spring in place...

 

Took me like 30 minutes and about 5-6 attempts lol... But I got a spring in there now!

 

Also, I think the extractor with the spring in place functions as a blocked so the nozzle doesn't over travel on blowback.

 

Got the magazine and slide back together, frame will have to wait until tomorrow.

Edited by NonEx

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Yeah I guess. But if you just remove the backstraps properly it shouldn't be an issue I think :P

 

I also ran the back of a scalpel blade over the mold lines on the frame to level it out a bit. I'm the first one to say that seam lines are realistic but this one just had too much flash on it.

 

One more thing. 150% TM spec recoil spring doesn't really work. Too tight coils. Could force it on but then it pinched the spring cup. Also felt seriously stiff.

 

Probably a better bet to stretch the stock spring and bake it to set the length.

Edited by NonEx

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I feel like an idiot, but I can't for the life of me figure out where the slide catch spring goes. Can someone take a look on theirs and maybe pics of how it sits in the frame? If you can see it... 

 

Also my magazine release spring broke. Super weak spring metal. Try to get real one, if not ... KIC ! :o 

Edited by NonEx

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Mine is a second batch tan and has the laser engraving. When I first got it the texturing on the grip hurt my hand too, but over time it lessened due to useage. I still don't know if I can get a stronger hammer spring, the light striking seems so random too. I disassembled one of the mags and when I tried to reassemble I accidentaly snapped the sealing rubber. Which is actually pretty easy to do and a PITA to place in correctly while trying to screw the bottom back on. :P

NonEx I tried to take a picture of the spring but it's not easy without taking slide rails off:

kevzir.jpg

 

If I see it goo then it is on the trigger pin and latches on the slide release lever?

Also if someone needs the part diagram:

http://imgur.com/a/TmXEJ

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