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DeltaZero

Cybergun/VFC FNX-45

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Thanks guys, at least gives me somewhat of an idea of where it goes :o

 

Just not sure where the heck the other end goes around and gets pressure from. Oh wells.

 

EDIT: NVM, DJ, your second pic is perfect, had to zoom in to see the other end :P

 

Oh and RE the hammer spring, I can promise you that you do not need a stiffer hammer spring. It is seriously strong already. I suspect your lights striking is from something else. Possibly a worn valve knocker as that seems kind of fragile from what I have seen. 

 

Also a bit worried about the amount of wear I am seeing on a lot of parts even after just racking and dry firing this thing no more than 100 times so far :|

 

And also, an FYI, do not disassemble the lower unless you absolutely have to. Nightmare!

Edited by NonEx

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I haven't got the RS straps yet but I figured I might as well replace this busted one. Can't be too many Dolan moneys.

 

OKi, I figured out how all the parts go together. But I think putting the hammer spring in is a two man job to be honest... Will see if I can figure out a life hack for it :P 

Edited by NonEx
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Guess you don't need an RMR mount plate now that this is out: 

 

http://www8.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?search_From=searchItem&item=AZI-FNX-ABH&search=special&rs=FNX&catid=&cat=&view_choice=b

 

Also, reinforced nozzle: http://www8.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?search_From=searchItem&item=AZI-FNX-RNK&search=special&rs=FNX&catid=&cat=&view_choice=b

 

Thinking about getting them, BUUUT. having an adapter plate below the RMR is kind of more realistic... Since there are adapter plates for the real one as well.

 

Actually, what. That BBU would still require the Azumith plate since the BBU has the raised ridge in the middle at the top? :o

 

Mweh...

 

Waiting for A1A OSP 8" black to get in stock, Azimuth plate too.

 

Wondering if I should buy the tan OSP and have it Cerakoted or wait for the black one to come back...

Edited by NonEx

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Yeah you still need the plate unfortunately.. That BBU is just lighter.. Not sure why they didn't just make it with a plate built in but oh well! Hopefully someone will make it eventually!

 

As for the OSP I think you'll be waiting a very long time.. Maybe cerakote is the option or maybe look into one of those AAC suppressors?

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Oh and RE the hammer spring, I can promise you that you do not need a stiffer hammer spring. It is seriously strong already. I suspect your lights striking is from something else. Possibly a worn valve knocker as that seems kind of fragile from what I have seen. 

 

Also a bit worried about the amount of wear I am seeing on a lot of parts even after just racking and dry firing this thing no more than 100 times so far :|

 

And also, an FYI, do not disassemble the lower unless you absolutely have to. Nightmare!

Well I was thinking about the hammer spring mainly because a lot of people complained about their HK417 gbb(VFC too) not having a strong enough hammer spring when using propane and I was using propane in my pistol(it was also pretty hot 30+ celsius) when this started happening. Now it seems to work normally again(with my only working mag). Im curious about the valve knocker tough. Mine seems fine could anyone get a picture of their's? Just by looking into the magwell.

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I got mine in pieces right now so I can do better than that...

 

Here's some pics of the valve knocker; 

 

nx_fnx_hammer_int_valve_knocker_1.jpg

 

nx_fnx_hammer_int_valve_knocker_2.jpg

 

nx_fnx_hammer_int_valve_knocker_3.jpg

 

 

And some pics of the actual hammer housing, sans springs; 

 

nx_fnx_hammer_int_1.jpg

 

nx_fnx_hammer_int_2.jpg

 

 

And the most interesting find of all... drum roll please ... *brabababababa* - Steel* parts in the hammer mechanism! :o

* = Laymans terms, magnetic = steel :P

 

nx_fnx_hammer_int_1_materials.jpg

 

nx_fnx_hammer_int_2_materials.jpg

 

So yah. Every moving part inside of the hammer mechanism taking force from the hammer action is steel. Very nice actually. When I first saw how dainty the trigger bar actuator and valve knocker was I was like, if that's alu. this is going to break FAST!

 

Oh yah, the trigger bar, slide catch bar and trigger pin are also steel (magnetic).

 

 

Another thing. You cannot adjust the position of the half-cocked notch in the hammer because right after the hammer passes that position it starts to engage the valve knocker. So that's a no go.

 

OKi, think I figured out a life hack to reassemble the hammer mech too :D 

Edited by NonEx

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Aaand it's finally back together, fully functional! Cleaned and lubed :D

 

I mean, once I figued out how it all goes it was pretty straight forward, but still not very fun to work on. 10 out of 10 would not recommend disassembly! :P

 

nx_fnx_back_together.JPG

 

 

One last thing. Some springs in the exploded diagram are in the wrong position...

 

Valve knocker spring is supposed to put inwards pressure on the valve knocker.

 

Hammer spring has short leg to the left hand side, down and towards the front of the hammer housing, in to the magazine well, long leg to the right hand side.

 

Slide catch spring has long leg downwards, short leg upwards, wraps around the trigger pin to the left hand side, but to the right of the disassembly lever spring.

 

Life hack for installing hammer spring is, put it into position on the hammer housing with the short leg in place, long leg outside of the hammer. Assemble hammer housing, then loosen screws on all sides 2 rotations, use a pair of pliers to force it back around the hammer and in to its notch.

Edited by NonEx

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Got a response from KIC that they will check with the factory if they can get backstrap and mag release spring.

 

Also, when I had the FNX internals apart, the hammer mechanism seems very KSC/KWA USP like. Perhaps VFC used that as reference/inspiration to get the safety/decocker function working?

 

Especially the double jointed springy valve knocker reminds me a lot of KSC stuff.

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One thing, which bothering me is rotation of safety. Then it's on "Safe" position it's not fully covering red spot on frame. Is it possible to fix it?

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The red spot not being fully covered when in 'safe' is a bit annoying. As if it's mocking 'I'm kind of in safe. NO, no no no, am kidding. Am in safe, honestly. Honestly'.

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One thing, which bothering me is rotation of safety. Then it's on "Safe" position it's not fully covering red spot on frame. Is it possible to fix it?

 

Hmm, yeah that bothers me too. Unfortunately I put it back together yesterday but I think you would have to file on the left-hand side safetey plate to make it rotate further to make that happen. Not really something I would like to mess around with now that I have it back together :P

 

nx_fnx_hammer_int_1_materials.jpg

 

The plate on the right hand side in the image above. When rotated it pushes the arm in the upper left corner of that side downards, pushing the trigger bar down, disconnecting it from the sear. I guess you would have to mod plates on both sides since they are linked. 

 

EDIT: Actually I think it's the right hand side plate that is the safety "clicker", but the arm for the trigger bar is on the left side. And the left side is the decocker plate.

 

Does not seem worth it :o

 

In fact I am getting anxiety just thinking about it. hehe.

 

Why did you have to point that out. I knew it but I had let it go... :| 

 

Also Tokyo Model does not have any parts any other HK shop doesn't so I still think KIC is best bet.

Edited by NonEx

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Haha. I was planning on it. I think I have about an hours worth of a half complete re-assembly instructional video but I gave up after that with trying to make a video.

 

But taking it apart is easy. Getting it back together is not difficult, just a bit fiddley.

 

Why would you want to disassemble yours though?

 

I wouldn't recommend it unless you actually have to.

 

Disassembly steps slide: 

 

  1. Remove magazine
  2. Lock back slide
  3. Rotate takedown lever downwards
  4. Release slide
  5. Remove slide
  6. Remove recoil spring guide assembly
  7. Remove recoil spring cup (optional)
  8. Remove recoil spring (optional)
  9. Unscrew thread protector
  10. Remove outer barrel
  11. Remove inner barrel from outer barrel
  12. Remove two screws from inner barrel hop housing assembly (standard VSR style)
  13. Unscrew the two allen head screws from RMR plate
  14. Remove RMR plate
  15. Unscrew grub screw from front sight
  16. Remove front sight
  17. Unscrew the two screws inside the BBU
  18. Remove rear sight
  19. Remove BBU from slide
  20. Capture BBU rear plate and spring upon removal (might be you have a spring for your extractor which will come out and/or get crushed in the process)
  21. Poke out nozzle recoil spring blocker from BBU
  22. Remove nozzle spring
  23. Remove nozzle
  24. Unscrew rear cap of nozzle
  25. Punch out nozzle internal pin
  26. Remove nozzle internals
  27. Remove nozzle o-ring

 

Frame: 

 

  1. Remove backstrap
  2. Unscrew 0.9mm grub screw from right-hand side safety lever
  3. Remove right-hand side safety lever
  4. Push safety lever rod towards the left side and remove left side lever and rod
  5. Pull the hammer assembly out of the frame (pull trigger to the rear and rotate assembly forward)
  6. Use a pick to push the takedown lever spring out of the way
  7. Push takedown lever out of the frame, right side to the left
  8. Unscrew front inner frame assembly chassi screw
  9. Lift chassi up and out (slide catch lever spring might come out)
  10. Punch out trigger pin (left to right, wiggle slide catch and trigger bar at same time, it is locked on those)
  11. Remove takedown lever spring and (if still there) slide catch spring
  12. Remove slide catch lever
  13. Remove trigger bar and trigger
  14. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, LEAVE THE MAGAZINE RELEASE IN PLACE!
  15. Unscrew the top right-hand side screw from hammer assembly
  16. Remove screw
  17. Left-hand side trigger bar depresser arm will come lose
  18. Half-cock/ful-cock two-part assembly and spring will come out from the top
  19. Remove left side bottom screw and remove cover plate
  20. Remove safety lever actuator plate
  21. Remove safety lever actuator plate retaining arm and spring
  22. Unscrew the bottom right hand side screw
  23. Remove right-hand side plate
  24. Remove right-hand side safety lever actuator plate retaining arm and spring (valve reset knocker spring may come out, careful!)
  25. Remove valve reset knocker and spring
  26. Unscrew left-hand side bottom screw (hammer spring pin and hammer spring will come out. May have to hold pin in place with pliers so it doesn't rotate upon being unscrewed)
  27. Remove screw
  28. Remove hammer spring pin and hammer spring
  29. Remove top left-hand side screw from housing
  30. Separate the two halves (take care not to lose the valve knocker spring from top left-hand corner!)
  31. Remove valve knocker and spring
  32. Remove hammer, trigger bar actuator and hammer pin

 

Magazine: 

 

  1. Remove main valve with valve key
  2. Remove fill valve with valve key
  3. Remove base plate screw and base plate
  4. Unscrew the three base cap screws
  5. Remove base cap
  6. Remove spring and follower
  7. Remove feed lip pin
  8. Remove feedlip
  9. Remove gas route rubber

 

Done!

 

Reverse to rebuild :P

 

Best of luck sir!

Edited by NonEx
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Ok so I was checking my valve knocker inside the magwell while pulling back the slide and then pulling the trigger. I found that sometimes the valve knocker won't move out all the way from it's ready position sometimes it only goes halfway and it also seem to get stuck do one side. When in those position it would not reach the magazine of course which cause the light striking. Now to find out what is causing it. Unfortunatelly I probably will have to disassemble it. :(

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Haha. I was planning on it. I think I have about an hours worth of a half complete re-assembly instructional video but I gave up after that with trying to make a video.

 

But taking it apart is easy. Getting it back together is not difficult, just a bit fiddley.

 

Why would you want to disassemble yours though?

 

I wouldn't recommend it unless you actually have to.

 

Disassembly steps slide:

 

  • Remove magazine
  • Lock back slide
  • Rotate takedown lever downwards
  • Release slide
  • Remove slide
  • Remove recoil spring guide assembly
  • Remove recoil spring cup (optional)
  • Remove recoil spring (optional)
  • Unscrew thread protector
  • Remove outer barrel
  • Remove inner barrel from outer barrel
  • Remove two screws from inner barrel hop housing assembly (standard VSR style)
  • Unscrew the two allen head screws from RMR plate
  • Remove RMR plate
  • Unscrew grub screw from front sight
  • Remove front sight
  • Unscrew the two screws inside the BBU
  • Remove rear sight
  • Remove BBU from slide
  • Capture BBU rear plate and spring upon removal (might be you have a spring for your extractor which will come out and/or get crushed in the process)
  • Poke out nozzle recoil spring blocker from BBU
  • Remove nozzle spring
  • Remove nozzle
  • Unscrew rear cap of nozzle
  • Punch out nozzle internal pin
  • Remove nozzle internals
  • Remove nozzle o-ring

Frame:

  • Remove backstrap
  • Unscrew 0.9mm grub screw from right-hand side safety lever
  • Remove right-hand side safety lever
  • Push safety lever rod towards the left side and remove left side lever and rod
  • Pull the hammer assembly out of the frame (pull trigger to the rear and rotate assembly forward)
  • Use a pick to push the takedown lever spring out of the way
  • Push takedown lever out of the frame, right side to the left
  • Unscrew front inner frame assembly chassi screw
  • Lift chassi up and out (slide catch lever spring might come out)
  • Punch out trigger pin (left to right, wiggle slide catch and trigger bar at same time, it is locked on those)
  • Remove takedown lever spring and (if still there) slide catch spring
  • Remove slide catch lever
  • Remove trigger bar and trigger
  • FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, LEAVE THE MAGAZINE RELEASE IN PLACE!
  • Unscrew the top right-hand side screw from hammer assembly
  • Remove screw
  • Left-hand side trigger bar depresser arm will come lose
  • Half-cock/ful-cock two-part assembly and spring will come out from the top
  • Remove left side bottom screw and remove cover plate
  • Remove safety lever actuator plate
  • Remove safety lever actuator plate retaining arm and spring
  • Unscrew the bottom right hand side screw
  • Remove right-hand side plate
  • Remove right-hand side safety lever actuator plate retaining arm and spring (valve reset knocker spring may come out, careful!)
  • Remove valve reset knocker and spring
  • Unscrew left-hand side bottom screw (hammer spring pin and hammer spring will come out. May have to hold pin in place with pliers so it doesn't rotate upon being unscrewed)
  • Remove screw
  • Remove hammer spring pin and hammer spring
  • Remove top left-hand side screw from housing
  • Separate the two halves (take care not to lose the valve knocker spring from top left-hand corner!)
  • Remove valve knocker and spring
  • Remove hammer, trigger bar actuator and hammer pin

Magazine:

  • Remove main valve with valve key
  • Remove fill valve with valve key
  • Remove base plate screw and base plate
  • Unscrew the three base cap screws
  • Remove base cap
  • Remove spring and follower
  • Remove feed lip pin
  • Remove feedlip
  • Remove gas route rubber

Done!

 

Reverse to rebuild :P

 

Best of luck sir!

More to clean it and make sure I get rid of all of the *suitcase*! It's absolutely gopping! I mean seriously it's literally everywhere my first FNX definitely didn't have that much!

 

And actually it was a completely different oil too it was much thicker, sticky and clearer (smelt horrendous!) rather than this which is cloudy and thinner..

 

I will contemplate my decision and give it a go probably I like a challenge! ;)

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I am here for you mate if you decide to go for it :P

 

 

 

OK, here's a half-derpy explanation of how the trigger system works: 

 

nx_fnx_hammer_int_movement.jpg

 

 

1. Purple = Trigger and trigger bar
2. Blue - Double action trigger bar actuator
2A. Blue - Single action sear tripper
3. Green - Sear(s) (half-cock, full-cock)
4. Yellow - Hammer
5. Red - Valve knocker
 
For simplicity let's say this is in SA mode; 
 
1. You pull the trigger (1. Purple) rearwards
2. This moves the trigger bar (1. Purple) rearwards
3. This pushes the trigger bar (1. Purple) on to the single action sear disconnector (2A. Blue)
4. This pushes the sear(s) (3. Green) up and out of the way of the hammer (4. Yellow)
5. The hammer (4. Yellow) then moves forwards, pushing the trigger bar arm (2. Blue) on to the valve knocker (5. Red), which then strikes the release valve (not shown) on the magazine
 
 
So. The question then is. Is this consistent between DA and SA?
 
Unless something is broken or gunked up, or half-stuck, what you describe doesn't really make sense.
 
Sounds like it might need a full strip down, clean and re-lube before you can make any sense of it.
 
Sucks to be you :D
Edited by NonEx
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Ok so question.. Im currently cleaning the slide out..

 

Does the extractor have a spring behind it? It just fell out and I can't see a spring anywhere if there was one? :/

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Excellent I think I have one of those lying around! I will have a shufty!

 

Did you also notice that your nozzle doesn't slide back and forth very smoothly?? Mine is properly clean and nicely lubed but it still feels quite gritty.. And the oring is very hard!

Edited by DeltaZero

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