Jump to content

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

bjorn

Best airsoft silencer?

Recommended Posts

I have owned many, but am now looking for a new one. 

Criteria:
1) Most silencing effect (good and many baffles)
2) Spring inside to hold baffles in place. Have seen baffles come in the way of bb and make a mess.

3) Overall build quality

Ready to spend some cash to get one and a good one! 

I checked PDI site lately and saw this: http://www.x-fire.org/silencer/e.fp_silencer.html . Not it doesn´t have an internal spring, but PDI makse good stuff. Any other suggestions. 

For clarity - this will go on the end of Polarstar, so the silencing effect is the most important!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Surprisingly I've found the most effective suppressor for my P* has been a ASG B&T Tracer unit.. not entirely sure why either. I've tried various madbull offerings etc

 

Either the change hasn't be majorly noticeable or my P* is different to the rest!

 

Still I'd be interested to hear what results other people have had.. I'm always interested in making mine quieter!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use a King Arms Silent Option on my VSR. Definitely takes the snap out of the shot.

 

 

If you're set on having a spring inside to keep the foam in place (not that it needs one) then an old AEG spring works.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Surprisingly I've found the most effective suppressor for my P* has been a ASG B&T Tracer unit.. not entirely sure why either. I've tried various madbull offerings etc

 

Either the change hasn't be majorly noticeable or my P* is different to the rest!

 

Still I'd be interested to hear what results other people have had.. I'm always interested in making mine quieter!

My guess is that the B&T suppressor pretty much have two chambers. The first one being the length of your flash hider (which is encapsulated by the locking mech) and the second the foam cylindrical bit. Inside the locking mech there should be a baffle-like face that prevents the flash hider from dropping all the way into the suppressor itself. I think that "baffle", along with the chamber it creates where the flash hider resides, cut a lot of the report out of your shots. The foam cylinder bit helps to reduce that further.

 

My KAC CQB suppressor that's been modded to fit an IronAirsoft MAMS brake also dampens the report of the shots a lot since the brake itself acts as a separate chamber inside the suppressor itself.

 

Perhaps other suppressors with similar designs will also be effective as any suppressor can be for airsoft.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My guess is that the B&T suppressor pretty much have two chambers. The first one being the length of your flash hider (which is encapsulated by the locking mech) and the second the foam cylindrical bit. Inside the locking mech there should be a baffle-like face that prevents the flash hider from dropping all the way into the suppressor itself. I think that "baffle", along with the chamber it creates where the flash hider resides, cut a lot of the report out of your shots. The foam cylinder bit helps to reduce that further.

 

My KAC CQB suppressor that's been modded to fit an IronAirsoft MAMS brake also dampens the report of the shots a lot since the brake itself acts as a separate chamber inside the suppressor itself.

 

Perhaps other suppressors with similar designs will also be effective as any suppressor can be for airsoft.

 

When I say a B&T Tracer I mean the ASG clone of the original TM tracer unit.. so no flash hider locking mech etc just screws straight to a 14mm.. See below!

 

img-1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The best design that I've ever seen so far is the TM G-Spec mock suppressor.

The baffle spacers are shaped similarly to the baffles within a real suppressor. Additionally, the foam is perhaps the highest quality foam I've seen inside a mock airsoft suppressor as compared to the VFC and Madbull units I own.

 

hHXUbjh.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's lots of good suppressors out there, but for polarstar you need custom internals for the truly silent result.

 

What are your maximum size limitations? For polarstar you need volume like no other.

 

Straight off the bat, i'd recommend the KA LW Series.

They're 40mm x 200/245/290/335mm.

 

It's probably the best combo between lightweight and solid. These KA suppressors are VERY light for their size and material.

They also make the same suppressors as CF versions, if you don't mind the CF weave look.

 

The internals are so-so.

They can be re-used, but you still need to make chamber plates and voluming.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the many many replies. I have used KA ones many years ago on AEG-s, so I can´t compare with a Polarstar. 

Jal3 - do you mean more length or diameter or both? I can do with more length but 40mm diameter might be a tad too much. 
I also agree that the internals are what makes it good. That is why I am ready to spend some more cash to get one that does the job in minimum configuration. G-spec silencer is good! But wrong thread size obviously. 

I have tried making silencer internals myself as well, but no dice. I bought thick car silencing foam etc, but could not cut it into shape and the hole in the middle. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the Surefire Replica from madbull, in fact I have two each different lengths.. They're alright but the trouble with them is the weigh an absolute tonne and they arent the quietest!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the many many replies. I have used KA ones many years ago on AEG-s, so I can´t compare with a Polarstar. 

 

Jal3 - do you mean more length or diameter or both? I can do with more length but 40mm diameter might be a tad too much. 

I also agree that the internals are what makes it good. That is why I am ready to spend some more cash to get one that does the job in minimum configuration. G-spec silencer is good! But wrong thread size obviously. 

 

I have tried making silencer internals myself as well, but no dice. I bought thick car silencing foam etc, but could not cut it into shape and the hole in the middle. 

 

Both length and diameter. As much volume as possible.

They also make the same series in a 30mm diameter version.

http://www.kingarms.com/showproduct.asp?subcatid=4

KA-SIL-12 (and the 40mm series are further down, KA-SIL-04)

 

Diameter is an interesting point. When you go from 30 to 40mm, you get 80% more volume. And that's without subtracting the 7mm "stream path" in the middle. Doing so. the difference is 105% (23mm vs 33mm). In addition, if we subtract a 1mm cylinder wall, the difference becomes 118% (21mm vs 31mm).

Not that it'll necessarely be an audible difference, but it's worth having in mind.

 

I look at it this way: Diameter increases the efficiency of each "step" (Be it volume chamber, cutoff disc or foam absorber), length multiplies the amount of steps.

 

And you're right, it's easy to plan, but very hard to cut foam correctly without proper tools >.>

But there are companies around who can cut and supply foam to spec.

 

There's 3 types of internals in an airsoft silencer. You have:

Volume Chamber

-Consists of free space

-Allows pressure to expand sideways instead of forward through the silencer

-Must provide support between foam and cutoff discs (unless you glue things in...)

-Typically a very thin tubing (eg. 38mm OD 37mm ID)

 

Cutoff Disc

-Thin, hard disc

-Super small hole in the middle, 6,5-7mm depending on your trust in threading alignment

-Function is to force air to expand in the volume chamber instead of continuing forward

-Pretty easily made by press-drilling an alu plate (drill OD shape, drill ID hole). Plexiglass/lexan can be substituted, but i recommend something that can take a beating...

 

Foam Baffle

-Absorbs sound

-Must be soft and "foamy".

-Does not have to be cut with a close ID (Cutoff disc does that)

 

The way i'd build it would be like this (300mm+ length):

60mm volume chamber, thin foam lining if possible

2mm Cutoff disc

10mm Foam

20mm volume chamber

2mm cutoff disc

10mm foam

Repeat last 3 steps

 

Make sure to finish with a cutoff disc. Exit hole on the silencer has a lot to say for sound signature, and most airsoft silencers come with a 8mm+ hole, which is nice for avoiding a BB hitting on exit, but bad for sound reduction.

 

I don't recommend putting in a spring to keep things in check, since it'll increase diameter on the cutoff holes. 

 

If you want to achieve a decent result without any work, you can buy a KA 30/40mm suppresor, take out half the filth baffles, stick the rest on a AEG spring (with space between them) and put it back in. Very easy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I am in the process of designing my own suppressor for my Current WE M4 build, because all of the ones on the market look to skinny inside my rail for my tastes. Its going to have an OD of around 46mm and an ID of around 38-40mm. It will be between 125-150mm long. what would you recommend for the baffles? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quietest mock suppressor I've seen was on a KWA MP7. The foam inserts were cut similar to real steel suppressor baffles and the difference to user wasn't much but the difference for the player getting shot at was night and day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quietest mock suppressor I've seen was on a KWA MP7. The foam inserts were cut similar to real steel suppressor baffles and the difference to user wasn't much but the difference for the player getting shot at was night and day.

 

 

That's usually the case. I always have my buddy shoot my VSR at me after I've worked on it to check it's still quiet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am running a red + nozzle with gold poppet and shims. Usually at 80PSI and 480mm PDI 6.05 tightbore. 

In the mean time I have gathered info about super good silencing capability Laylax Mode-2 inserts and Mode-2 Suppressors:
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/laylax-mode-2-noise-limiter-fo-suppressor.html#.VLuLU0eUclS

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=323

However, the noise limiter kit is out of stock everywhere I could look for it and the ca 100$ suppressor without first trying is a bit much. 

In the mean time I found some cheap 40mm diameter different length silencer at Gunfire.pl which have some interesting features:
http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152195841-Covert-Tactical-PRO-40x250mm-silencer.html

http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152196207-Covert-Tactical-Standard-40x200mm-silencer.html

Since they don´t cost that much I will order both and see how they are, maybe combine the two somehow. 40mm and 200mm length should be enough, if not I will go for the 250mm as primary. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ICS long QD silencer. Its v high quality and heavy (aircraft grade aluminum cd be wrong though).

Itll fit any M4 flashider. On my ics m4 aeg theres no apreciable suppresion; a slight change in timbre, lessens that irritating ics "whine"...but I used it on a friends gas M4 recently, and the reduction was pretty considerable a sharp crack becomes a hiss. Pretty impressive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I received the two silencers I linked from GunFire.pl before. One is a full foam one, the other is without foam, but with many air chambers inside. Both work, but nothing exceptional. The holes in the middle chambers are way to big (measured something like 14mm diameter). 

I will try to combine the two with foam + chambers and see what I can come up with. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.