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bjorn

Best airsoft silencer?

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Id b interested to actually see the difference in decibles between suppressed/unsuppressed. My one uses foam, but the thing is its on an aeg and the actual muzzle signature seems negligable, even unsupressed; all that noise is coming from the motor, and the noise level is pretty damn high since ive brought better batteries.

 

Im pretty sure any silencer is going to become useful with gas/c02/ spring powered guns-ive used one on a spring air rifle and just guessing id say its around the 30 to 40% range, just going by ear.

 

Imho i wouldnt advise anybody to buy really expensive suppressers for AEG's-they look the part but the muzzle report of an aeg is pretty minute, and silencers will do nothing for the real noise:the motor.

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It varies from AEG to AEG.

The more airtight your system is, and the more (over)volume you have, the louder the muzzle crack. A suppressor can certainly make a difference here.

And the amount of gear whine also varies.

 

I've seen (heard) PTW's where the loudest sound was the flop-flop from the piston head. 

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I've seen (heard) PTW's where the loudest sound was the flop-flop from the piston head. 

 

 

Stock TM P90 sounds like this with a suppressor. Without one, it has a definite snap.

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Imho i wouldnt advise anybody to buy really expensive suppressers for AEG's-they look the part but the muzzle report of an aeg is pretty minute, and silencers will do nothing for the real noise:the motor.

I'd say that depends on the AEG and the motor, as well as other parts. I have two ICS MP5 SD3s, one stock and one tarted up, on both removing the suppressor makes quite a noticable difference to the muzzle report, the 'tarted' up SD3 has a stock TM gearset and EG700 motor in which are considerably quieter than the ICS parts along with one of my own airbrake piston heads to dampen the sound from the piston head which overall works nicely and I'm told from a distance it is very quiet.

 

If you want a quiet AEG then I think it would be fair to say a suppressor is only one part of the solution.

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I have a G&P silencer that changes the sound of the AEG but doesn't really silence it. I've been told that the filler foam you get from DIY shops can work well but it's a messy job.

 

Aren't airsoft guns quiet enough anyway? The only thing I use silencers for now is to hide a longer barrel.

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Theyre are quiet generally; I mean the sharp crack of a gas pistol is far louder than a single aeg shot. As posters above have pointed out aegs are unique in that the suppressor is one part of a complete solution. We can buy off the shelf parts to deal with the m7zzle end, but dampening the motor (and they can be very loud) i guess calls for "fieldcraft"-some type of sound dampening resin or finish maybe...? The only sure fire way i know of reducing the noise is to use a less powerful battery; I have an ics m4 and for ages i used a chinese battery; the kick was reduced a great deal and instead of the "blat!" Im getting now id have a very distinctive whining sound.

 

Almost like using subsonic ammo in a way if that doesnt sound strange

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Mmmm, I'm thinking using 11.1v single shot will perhaps be louder, but faster.

In my head it makes sense. rather a *BLAT* than a *zzzblat* on a NiMH or 7.2 LiPo which can be more easily traced back. I think...

Dampen the *BAT* and you'll have a winner?

 

That and correcting motorheight and pinion-to-bevel shimming should be key I think.

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Yeah, I dont really get the shimming and in-depth technical stuff, as Im quite new to internals in general, but i think the vibration of the motor is a big culprit-mine kicks quite hard now, and while I like the pseudo-recoil sensation, this also is very audible with a quite loud whacking sound; if I eliminated that somehow the thing would be a ghost....using a weaker battery would really reduce this a lot, but Ive become addicted to power! May sound a bit sadistic but hitting somebody with a short burst and them ALWAYS conceding the shot through fear of taking a few more is intoxicating, so i dont think I could go back tbh

 

Anyway, just a guess but I think absorbing the vibration would really help; as it happens i have loads of flecktarn and OD camo wrap due from HK- I was gonna do my JG A47 sniper but to experiment ill try tightly wrapping the parts that vibrate the most ie receiver grip etc...worth a try anyways

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Heres a picture of what I am planning on fabrication for my WE T91 DMR in the future...

 

What is the first block after the threading? A solid tube with little diameter?

I would recommend free space (volume chamber) there, with perhaps a little foam.

 

And make some of the foam chambers half-thickness (not length, but bigger bore), IMO.

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What is the first block after the threading? A solid tube with little diameter?

I would recommend free space (volume chamber) there, with perhaps a little foam.

 

And make some of the foam chambers half-thickness (not length, but bigger bore), IMO.

First block is free space,what exactly do you mean by change foam half thickness? 

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the swiss arms overbarrel was the best i ever used. had it on my L96 back in the day (built that to be silent) it was damn good out the box, but i did replace the foam with memory foam and some card for baffles.
thing was huge though, only really of any use on sniper rifles.

 

large-silencer_1.jpg

zOqYl4by_original.jpg

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Serious bit of shooting iron there mate. The sniper role isnt for me as 1 im a poor shot and 2 i lack the patience. The Swiss Arms silencers are particularly expensive so I guess thats where the money goes; I may get their pbs silence for my '74U, and Ive heard the mini uzi silencer is very effective, I imagine its the same for Co2 guns in general as the sharp report i believe is mainly the gas being expelled. Swiss Arms do make some incredible quality gear though.

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Both length and diameter. As much volume as possible.

They also make the same series in a 30mm diameter version.

http://www.kingarms.com/showproduct.asp?subcatid=4

KA-SIL-12 (and the 40mm series are further down, KA-SIL-04)

 

Diameter is an interesting point. When you go from 30 to 40mm, you get 80% more volume. And that's without subtracting the 7mm "stream path" in the middle. Doing so. the difference is 105% (23mm vs 33mm). In addition, if we subtract a 1mm cylinder wall, the difference becomes 118% (21mm vs 31mm).

Not that it'll necessarely be an audible difference, but it's worth having in mind.

 

I look at it this way: Diameter increases the efficiency of each "step" (Be it volume chamber, cutoff disc or foam absorber), length multiplies the amount of steps.

 

And you're right, it's easy to plan, but very hard to cut foam correctly without proper tools >.>

But there are companies around who can cut and supply foam to spec.

 

There's 3 types of internals in an airsoft silencer. You have:

Volume Chamber

-Consists of free space

-Allows pressure to expand sideways instead of forward through the silencer

-Must provide support between foam and cutoff discs (unless you glue things in...)

-Typically a very thin tubing (eg. 38mm OD 37mm ID)

 

Cutoff Disc

-Thin, hard disc

-Super small hole in the middle, 6,5-7mm depending on your trust in threading alignment

-Function is to force air to expand in the volume chamber instead of continuing forward

-Pretty easily made by press-drilling an alu plate (drill OD shape, drill ID hole). Plexiglass/lexan can be substituted, but i recommend something that can take a beating...

 

Foam Baffle

-Absorbs sound

-Must be soft and "foamy".

-Does not have to be cut with a close ID (Cutoff disc does that)

 

The way i'd build it would be like this (300mm+ length):

60mm volume chamber, thin foam lining if possible

2mm Cutoff disc

10mm Foam

20mm volume chamber

2mm cutoff disc

10mm foam

Repeat last 3 steps

 

Make sure to finish with a cutoff disc. Exit hole on the silencer has a lot to say for sound signature, and most airsoft silencers come with a 8mm+ hole, which is nice for avoiding a BB hitting on exit, but bad for sound reduction.

 

I don't recommend putting in a spring to keep things in check, since it'll increase diameter on the cutoff holes. 

 

If you want to achieve a decent result without any work, you can buy a KA 30/40mm suppresor, take out half the filth baffles, stick the rest on a AEG spring (with space between them) and put it back in. Very easy.

 

It appears that i missed a fascinating discution :unsure: 

I hope there are still some followers !

 

 

Not so long ago i made this Honey Badger extension for a friend.

Below you can see how i made it, according to the owner the silencer works,fine

 

But when reading this topic, i see it problably could be a lot better !

I made already an KAC NT4 suppressor for my Mk18,build  but the inside is empty in that one.

 

For my MP7 build there is this B&T Rotex replica on my way.

And for my Mk18 i am going to make the wel known SureFire SOCOM RC !

I want to spend a lot more attention to the inside of both , so any  advice is welcome

 

 

 

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I would say that if you want to reduce the sound that can be heard by your target, drill 6 small holes into the rear end cap of the silencer. That way any excess pressure will be reporting in the opposit direction. I would also only use a small section of foam at the front of the silencer. The small piece of foam will stop the silenser caseing from vibrating and resanating sound but by leaving most of the tube empty you allow room for the rapid expantion of gas and reduce the report from both frint and rear. That should work but i may be talking . My apologies if i am.

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Simple is easy and i'm lazy. The best silencer i have is the one on my 22 logun sweet 16 evo. Its so quiet that i was under the impression it wasnt fireing properly when i first used it. Took it off and bang. Yep theres a silencer that realy works. Its alot harder to do properly with airsoft thoe as bbs just cant be as close to baffels as lead leaving a rifled barrle without being destabalised.

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Nope, but it also dosent have to deal with a sphere shaped projectile that is spinning backwards as it passes through it. I think with airsoft there has to be more room for error when it comes to the projectiles flight path. Which is why airsoft silencers have such oversized openings in them. Maby you could make dissposable internal baffles that had taught sections of grease proof paper stretched over rings like drum skins. That would give you tight fit with the bbs leaving the barrle and would be self adjusting. but when they inevatibly get destroyed by the first stray bbs they would be easy to replace.

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Oh i missed that one. Good. Personally i would have added hard chambering discs instead of only foam narrowings. I believe this works the best. It's all about cut/expand/cut/expand...

 

 

 

I would say that if you want to reduce the sound that can be heard by your target, drill 6 small holes into the rear end cap of the silencer. That way any excess pressure will be reporting in the opposit direction. I would also only use a small section of foam at the front of the silencer. The small piece of foam will stop the silenser caseing from vibrating and resanating sound but by leaving most of the tube empty you allow room for the rapid expantion of gas and reduce the report from both frint and rear. That should work but i may be talking ######. My apologies if i am.

 

Good ideas.

 

Airsoft suppressors generally have wide exit holes because things are rarely perfectly aligned on airsoft guns. I can accept that for the purpose of compability.

But if you're working with good stuff, no problem running 7mm exit hole. Lower than that and it has to be cleaned all the time.

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I saw already the concept of @Jal,  the opposite of the @Svman's concept, interesting

I dont want to set you guys up to eachother  :D

But what wil be the best concept ?

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I think youll get better sound reduction from @jal's concept as long as your gun shoots consistently and those 7mm id aparatures are safe from impact by bbs. And personaly i do like the idea of building a proper silencer that works like the real deal. Would be a lot of fun. And you could cheat by buying a second hand cheap air rifle silencer and taking it apart. Widen all the disc holes to 7 mm and then rebuild it. If you found the bbs clipped the edges then move to 7.1 mm drill and repeat.

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I tried doing a simple design pic of what i meant:

suppressordesigns2.jpg

Volume is open space.

Cut is what the red discs are doing.

Absorb is what the foam areas are doing.

The blue lining is thin L shaped blue foam discs (hard to do).

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