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swatti

Does any Co2-mag use same VALVE as tm Desert Eagle mag?

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We also failed to explode the magazine with shear pressure. The seals kept blowing before the mag itself. They also took far more pressure then CO2 can produce in any natural conditions.

 

Can you try this with the Uzi magazines? I'd like to do a bottle-fed conversion on mine, but otherwise will have to use those PPS refillable CO2 cartridges, which would be a considerable and pointless expense if I don't need them.

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Rap4 sells better capsules. Sadly they too need minor modding to work but all six I got works perfectly now.

 

Check the picture few posts back. My prototype fill-valve cap for the uzi is there. PM me if you need details on how to make one, it's easy.

 

SMALL UPDATE:

Mailed KJW and bought a ton of valves. Now we wait.

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The safetest way to test the mag is an hidrostatic pressure test. That's what I want to do to my 1911, M9, P226 and M14 (although they are working with CO2 already, but just to be sure).

 

Instead of filling the mag with high pressure gas, fill it with high pressure water, to 2 times the vapor pressure of CO2. If the mag breaks, It won't throw sharpnel.

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Check the picture few posts back. My prototype fill-valve cap for the uzi is there. PM me if you need details on how to make one, it's easy.

 

I saw - and I'm interested! I'd just have the caps lathed up from brass stock, I should think, with O-rings to seal them. My query is whether you had tested the Mini UZI magazines like you've tested the Desert Eagle ones (using what I imagine is hydrostatic testing). I have a pressure washer which can bump up to 130bar (a not inconsiderable 1,885psi) but I'd have to make a new fitting just for that test and there's not much in the way of fine pressure control...

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UZI mags dont need to be tested, they work. At the thinnest point theres ~3mm of cast aluminium and its curved too. Personaly i trusted the UZI mags far more then the DE mags.

 

Ive been running the UZI mag proto for while now and its frigging brilliant. Perfect ROF from first to last round and zero cooldown.

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UPDATE: 

 

IT WORKS!!!

 

I scavenged and older model KJW valve while waiting the new ones to arrive and put together one working franken-valve that seems to seal.

 

I CNC'd a small round "plate" that is kept in place by the round opening where the valve mounts. Leaving a small "nub" in the middle of the plate the hammer-pin now reaches it and the GUN SHOOTS!!!

 

No permanent modification to the magazine OR gun is needed. 

 

Performance:

I havent chronoed the gun but clearly its WAY too hot atm. The hammer-pin strikes the valve a bit too deep causing way too high gas consumption. However the blowback is GODLY fast. With both guarder's over-to-top stiff recoil-springs the gun cycles amazingly fast but may stress the parts a bit too much even tho i have the metal-kit. 

It allmost feels bad to say this but its better then my Inokatsu 'LE' M1911A1 atm. However, it will not stay that way for long.

The initial idea was to reach "green gas level" in performace and improve gas-efficancy and storage amount to reduce cooldown and enable slide-lock even when shooting as fast as you can.

 

Nice suprice was that the pistonhead seal is still in its place, i was expecting it to pop off but its still there.

 

Atm the gun cycles about ~15-18 shots PERFECTLY, then last 2-3 shots come less snappy and poof.

 

TO-DO list:

- File down the plate's "nub" to reduce power

- Finetune her down to max 110m/s

- Shoot coke-cans on a video

- Sell this and become a millionaire

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I'm getting unreasonably excited by this thread, the Deagle is the one gun I really wanted CO2ing, I got rid of mine because the the slide broke and a metal slide with propane is pretty much useless. So er yeah, now I want a new one with the chrome metal kit and some CO2 mags! Nom.

 

I was also quite close to buying a KWC Uzi but a bit put off by the capsules...problem solved.

 

Devilhunter you say you've got the 1911, M9 and 226 working too? Is that with new mags or the originals? I'd be very interested in a CO2 1911, again I got rid of mine because on propane it's marginal.

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Stalled, again. The TM fill valve is the "long" type while the mag I was testing all this had the short one... Which also broke later on.

 

Weighing the mag I get quite small amounts of Co2 in due to the fill-valve.

 

Performance-wise the gun is now in sane fps-level and still cycles neat and quick.

Sanding off less than a millimeter from the plate and tightening the valve a bit deeper lowered the kick down to safer level.

 

It's still "sharper" then on green gas and slide locks nice.

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In the M9 (KJW) and P226 (SY) I have the standar mags, on the 1911 (KJW KP-07) I have a BF 40rds mag.

 

The M9 mag need a M9 CO2 valve with small mod, file the piston because is a bit long.

The P226 need to make the valves from zero and mod the fill valve.

The BF 1911 mag need a M9 CO2 valve with heavier mod (longer piston and file the back of the body) and mod the fill valve.

 

The M9 CO2 valve have a M9x0.5 thread (the P226 valve is M9x0.75), so if the standar 1911 mag have the same thread, you can convert it like the BF one.

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There is a simple solution to co2 valves. You can use the same brass body, you simply have to machine the little piston similarly to GHK's co2 valve piston that has the little screw with the plastic piece where the o ring normally goes. In my head, this could be done with any gbb, assuming the magazine and internals can withstand the increased pressure.

 

This could present an incredible breakthrough in the GBB world, especially for systems that have steel aftermarket parts.

 

Devilhunter this could be the solution for your WE CO2 M14 magazine. I want to pick up a KSC MP9, and maybe get an extra gteen gas valve to experiment with.

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Yes and no, let me explain myself:

 

In the pistol valves, the CO2 pressure help them to close, this make that they close pretty well. But unfortunately it makes pretty hard to open, and the flow is small.

 

On the other hand, GHK valves hold the pressure on the inside (it also help to close, but much less), and it makes easier to open the valve. This allows you make a big valve (so big flow) and easy to open. The bad point is that they can't close pretty well, so sometimes tend to leak. I think I have solved that, after testing several plastics to make the seal.

 

In my opinion, as yours, CO2 will be the best solution for all GBB. The GHK style valves are perfect for big guns, and the pistol valves for pistols and SMGs like the Mp9 that you are talking about.

 

In the case of the M14, that's why it didn't work at first glance. The original M14 gas valve opens like the pistol valves (with the gas coming from the front), I tried to make the magazine like this but that's why the valve is too hard to open. So now I'm making it GHK style (well I was making the new one but burned my milling machine motor, I'm wating for the replacement). If you take the original body of the M14 mag (lets say that it could hold the pressure, but I don't think so because I have seen some exploded by Green gas), since the valve is pistol style, you can't put a GHK style valve. Well in fact the M14 valve is almost identical in external shape to the GHK valves (same external dimensions and same thread). With a file you could convert a GHK valve to fit the M14 in minutes, but the hammer spring won't have force to open it.

 

The best point of pistol valves is that, even if there is no compatible CO2 valve with the mag you want to convert, the body is pretty easy to make in a lathe, not like the GHK valves that are pretty hard.

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UPDATE: 

 

It seems i had a upgraded hammer-spring. It caused the gun to run out of gas long before rounds, swapped in a stock-spring voila!, it works!

 

My "franken-valve" is leaking a bit so full test will have to wait till i get my new KJW valves. They should arrive later this week or early next week.

 

I shortened the fill-valve greatly and the magazine now takes even mode climate change and i was able to shoot a full mag with seemingly no cooldown what so ever and the slide locked back VERY smoothly. The mag was only slightly cold. A greengas-load would have been friggin freezing at that point.

 

There is minor issue with the hammer-mechanism, the hammer-pin doesn reset properly but that should be an easy fix.

 

Next up is the new valves and chrono-reading. There may be a need to shorten the stock hammer-spring a bit to reduce velocity down to 110m/s and gas-consumption along with it. Video at that point.

 

Me happy.

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I think this may just be THE reason Inokatsu DE never came, they made atleast four sets of steel-kits, one of them ive seen with my own eyes. Obviously, they dont work too well.

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Valves are here. Still neatly packed in an unopened package...

 

Been getting stuck to work, ~13hours/day, ~600km/day so the next day is somewhere between braindeath and comatose. I did manage to work on my minigun project a bit but sorry for neglecting this.

 

"Getting there"

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GRR! Poop...

 

Minor issues: I've used the seal from the original GG-valve on my "franken-valve" and the seals i use on the new valve are from fubar KJW valves and surprice surprice, they leak. Only VERY small hissing. Need to stop by at the hardware store and stock up on proper O-rings.

 

Need to calculate how much CO2 exactly is going into the mag and how much each shot is using = How many shots do i get out of a full load EXATCLY. 

 

Also need to test fill-valves. Bought NineBall valves as spares. Need to see if they take the pressure better then TM valves. Need to see if putting in a seal to the fill-valve affects the max-amount of CO2 in the mag, with greengas it does in some cases.

 

Il get measurements of the "coin" i use as an extender so anyone can make em. They are VERY easy to make.

 

My gun also has issues with its hammer-pin. It wont reset properly, maybe due to the "coin" extender or just messed up gun. 

 

Now, another 13 hours of happiness behind a wheel of a C-class mercedes... *KILL!*

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Tiny update, I fell in love with 3D printing.

 

I also learned my hidden talent of making 3D models.

 

I'm 90% sure the jamming issue I've had is due to the "coin" I use as an extension to the KJW co2 valve.

 

I think I can use my existing prototype as a base and see if I can fix the jamming. If it works I can just make a 3D sketch of the extension and print those by the dozen since it's so small part.

 

Thing is, it has to be made from metal, preferably from steel and I have no idea if there is a single metal 3D printer in the entire country.

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Tiny update. Mah Co2 bottle leaked itself dry.

 

Tried to be clever and bought a new bottle with an on/off-valve since the old one had a pin-valve.

 

Turns out the on/off-valve is LOT MORE complicated than the pin-valve and thus refuses to give more than 3g of gas in liquid form.

 

Now I need to figure out where the leak is on the pin-valve bottle is and fill her up.

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Tiny udate MK2

 

Filled the bottle, happy. Broke mah CO2 adapter, sad again. Ordered 3 new ones, less sad now.

 

KILL!!

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