hitmanNo2 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 OK. I'm wanting to run two USB leads to my glove box (fuse box in glove box) to power my phone and my dashcam. I think I've worked out cable routing e.t.c. so now just need to workout power interface.I was looking at those add a circuit things that clip into the fusebox but I'm not too sure on the finer points of how it all connects. Basically, the point I'm at now is I have two USB leads that terminate in the glove box. I thought about having a mini USB hub fitted in the glove box to give me one or two extra USB points but it's not really necessary. It would save me chopping USB leads but I'm happy to do so if there's another way.Wiring up one of these in the glove box seems like the best idea to me.http://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker%C2%AE-...sb+car+chargerOr one of these seeing as I only really need two.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-Doubl...item3a9a6dc77aCould anyone advise? I've not messed with a car's electrics at all. Also, I'm open to better suggestions I might add. Link to post Share on other sites
Tinkerton Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Do you want it permanent live or switched live? That is, do you want those usb ports to have power all the time, or only when the ignition is on? That'll determine which fuse you splice into. Some cars (like my old mondeo) had a choice on the cig lighter socket depending on the fuse placement, very clever. I'd recommend switched live, otherwise you may come back to a flat battery. Out of those two items you listed, personally i'd be tempted to go for the Anker, mainly because it's a brand name I've come across before and has decent enough reviews, plus it's probably as easy to wire in - get a 12v socket extender, a fuse tap http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Piggy-Back-ATC-Blade-Fuse-Holder-with-4-Fuses-12V-20A-Fuse-Tap-ATM-Add-Circuit-/221670686806?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item339c9a4056, and then should something go pop, you can change the cig socket charger out for another one. Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted February 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Yeah. I'm after switched live. So dash cam comes on with ignition e.t.c. I've had a few Anker products and have been very impressed with them hence choosing that in the sea of 90% *suitcase* out there. So, USB block into 12v socket extender to fuse tap holder to fusebox. Extender like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-Motorcycle-Cigarette-Lighter-Power-Socket-Outlet-Adapter-12V-/261638298367?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3ceadb9aff How would that interface with the fuse tap? Supposedly there was option to put a 12v socket under the glovebox, in the footwell of my car, but I don't have it as I have a 12v by the ash tray on the console. It would have been handy to just plug the USB block into that one. Link to post Share on other sites
shmook Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 I'm no help at all here, but I've been considering doing the same thing today before I saw this is as I'm wanting to have a permanent feed for dashcams in our cars without tying up the existing 12v sockets. Following with interest Link to post Share on other sites
scorch Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Switched live is easy, piggy back it off the horn wiring at the fuse box. Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 I need to do something like this. I've got a Griffin PowerJolt dual USB socket, and it can't even keep up with my phone's battery drain if I'm using the navigation. My JVC stereo has a front and rear USB, but it needs both of them to function (Bluetooth and music storage); I was thinking of just running a splitter from the rear to a socket in the dash. Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted February 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 If you're happy with the 12v adapter, you just need a beefy, high output one. I have one of these and it's more than enough to charge my phone whilst using GPS. I imagine there's an equivalent you can get in the US http://www.amazon.co.uk/PowerGen-Charger-Android-Designed-included/dp/B0088U4YAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424045974&sr=8-1&keywords=powergen+12v Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLUE-SEA-FLUSH-PANEL-MOUNT-TWIN-USB-2-0-CHARGER-SOCKET-DA4679-/271573739436?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f3b0e67ac Got that in my Defender. Wire it into something that only comes on with the engine. I chose the cig lighter, took all of 10 minutes Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted February 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 Could you elaborate on the actual wiring element of the project? That's where I'm a bit puzzled? Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 Get some cable that can handle the load should be too thick, cant remember off the top of my head but ill have a look when im home. Connect to the USB (if using the one above) then if you want it to come live when the ignition is on and dead when off choose something in your car already that currently does this. Most cars this will be the cig lighter, but some remain on when the ignition is off. Wire directly into that, essentially piggy back off the cig lighter which will have its own connectors on the back. Its not the best solution but it is the easiest and quickest solution! Failing that you can wire directly into the battery and use an in line fuse, red wire to positive terminal (terminal connectors can be bought very cheaply), black to earth either on the battery or a piece of bare metal. However this will be constantly live. To make it switched you need to find a cable in the car that is already a switched live, or take a feed off the ignition live. Link to post Share on other sites
scorch Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 Get some cable that can handle the load should be too thick, cant remember off the top of my head but ill have a look when im home. Connect to the USB (if using the one above) then if you want it to come live when the ignition is on and dead when off choose something in your car already that currently does this. Most cars this will be the cig lighter, but some remain on when the ignition is off. Wire directly into that, essentially piggy back off the cig lighter which will have its own connectors on the back. Its not the best solution but it is the easiest and quickest solution! Failing that you can wire directly into the battery and use an in line fuse, red wire to positive terminal (terminal connectors can be bought very cheaply), black to earth either on the battery or a piece of bare metal. However this will be constantly live. To make it switched you need to find a cable in the car that is already a switched live, or take a feed off the ignition live. This. When I fitted my heated grips I used the switched live of the horn just before the fusebox and added a fuse for the grips. Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 Car wiring is daunting to start with but once you get into it its easy peasy. I've fitted a whole host of lights, seat heaters and random electrical stuff to my Defender over the past couple years im not half bad now! Electric windows are usually on a switched live as well Link to post Share on other sites
scorch Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 Leccy windows should be on quite a chunky cable if you're going in right next to the fuse box too. Link to post Share on other sites
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