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Gutted an ACM Hicapa extreme pistol for the full auto blow back chamber and disconnector/sear. et voila, proper full auto.

 

Also cut down a Thompson foregrip, mounted it to the frame, put a G3 flash hider on a threaded barrel adaptor. Will do up a proper barrel extension when I can. Mp7 inner barrel.

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Man, did I kill this thread? After passing up the opportunity to buy a real Artillery Luger at a gun show this weekend I contented myself with overhauling my airsoft version to try to make it a usable sidearm. I think my graphite rub 'bluing' technique looks a lot better than the default glossy black.

 

Ti60JSz.jpg

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Man, did I kill this thread? After passing up the opportunity to buy a real Artillery Luger at a gun show this weekend I contented myself with overhauling my airsoft version to try to make it a usable sidearm. I think my graphite rub 'bluing' technique looks a lot better than the default glossy black.

 

Ti60JSz.jpg

What's graphite rub bluing? - not heard of that one. The finish looks quite good. Is it durable?

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What's graphite rub bluing? - not heard of that one. The finish looks quite good. Is it durable?

 

It's a technique commonly used by prop modelers, I'm not sure if anyone else uses it for airsoft. I take powdered graphite, typically sold as a lubricant for locks, and rub it into the surface of the metal with a soft cloth (ie cut-up T-shirt square). This turns the satin black finish into a very metallic grey, but at this point it can be removed by dragging a finger across or getting it wet, so I spray it with matte varnish. This adheres it to the surface, but kills the shine, so I buff it thoroughly with a clean cloth to get some shininess back. Once that's complete I either call it done if I'm satisfied with the look, or repeat the whole process of graphite/varnish/buff to get a more metallic finish. When the process is complete, while the finish can be scraped off with a knife, it's significantly tougher than spray paint, and it's easy to touch up.

 

On the left is the stock WE Luger, on the right is the refinished one, using two layers and heavily buffing to get the shiny blued look. As another example, I used the same basic technique on the body of my M53 Sarac, but doing one layer and minimizing the buffing after varnish, to give it a more matte phosphated look rather than the inaccurate satin black of the stock gun.

 

Hope that helps.

Edited by CatgutViolin
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