Reliable, low maintenance CO2 Glock replica

[NonEx]

Doubt it. KJW are not known for updating the internal components between externally different models.

[PureSilver]

Is there any functional difference between the standard KP-01 and the E2 model? I'd prefer the standard model, as it would be more appropriate for my UKSF kit. That said, if the E2 is the better model, I'll gladly spring for it.

 

I'm not sure. There are differences between the equivalent TM models, and I wouldn't be surprised if at least some of those differences are also required in the KJWs owing to the revised grip shape (interferes with the hammer strut). However, you can easily change the grips on a P226 E² to a regular P226, which is likely to be the only major external difference.

 

The reason I recommended the KP01-E² is it is sold as CO₂ capable and has a few new internal parts (hammer spring and nozzle) that are presumably upgraded to deal with that. If the original KP01 is now also being sold as CO₂ capable, then absolutely get the original; both are great designs.

[ardrummer292]

Well, I just ordered a Safariland 6004 fitted for the P226. Let's hope this KJW works.

[CZFan]

There is no gun that wont keep failing on CO2. KJW included.

 

Just pick a gun you can get spares for and just change stuff when it fails.

[ardrummer292]

What parts do you think will fail first? I'd like to stock up on repair components beforehand, if at all possible.

[CZFan]

nozzle pretty much universally will go first.

 

 typically you will need to up the recoil spring for CO2 use which will cause more wear on the breech block which could be the hop up chamber depending on the gun itself (depends if the slide rams into it on return).

 

 if you are using the stock cast metal slide, and especially if the design doesn't come with a buffer, you could crack that since the backwards force is significantly stronger. im yet to break cnc milled aftermarket tho. so depends.

 

 

anything cast zinc metal is also a suspect (even on gas actually). hammer, sear, etc. but that's down the road. thing is, any co2 "ready" gun will have stronger springs (hammer, valve knocker retainer) to properly press on the mag release valve, so that alone will cause more wear to components. I think all kj's Co2 capable new version guns come with cast steel internals (at least the firing mech) but verify prior. if so, one less thing to worry about.

 

kjw is tough in comparison to others, but expect issues at 1500-2000 co2 shots especially in summer when its hot and gas tends to want to expand more.

[Mazor]

Sorry to thread hijack, but as people here recommends the KJW KP07 with new slim CO2 mags, I need to ask if someone has found a way to fix leaking main valve on mags?

The problem in these CO2 mags are nylon made seal, that will get small cracks under the pressure the CO2 puts on it. 2 of my 3 mags began to leak after some 10 capsules... I have not find a viable way to fix them.

 

So far I have tried:

- Warm the pin on valve and let it mould a cone to nylon seal

- Different sizes of rubber O-rings, only to see them to be torn under pressure. One actually caused my gun to go super-full auto, emptying one mag without a need to press the trigger...

- Silicone sealant on nylon seal, just flew out the barrel when shooting

- Greasing, works for couple shots.

- Silicone oil, no help at all.

 

Is there any 3rd party valve that fits?

[Danke]

Back to Glock, these are supposed to be nice.

 

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=51_391&products_id=20364&zenid=7tnl6mok2m2uvsqvbmos365sl2

 

Be a sport and try one out for the rest of us.

[ardrummer292]

I can't find a single review on that gun. I honestly had no idea Bell made Glocks, let alone CO2 Glock magazines.

[Danke]

[CZFan]

Sorry to thread hijack, but as people here recommends the KJW KP07 with new slim CO2 mags, I need to ask if someone has found a way to fix leaking main valve on mags?

The problem in these CO2 mags are nylon made seal, that will get small cracks under the pressure the CO2 puts on it. 2 of my 3 mags began to leak after some 10 capsules... I have not find a viable way to fix them.

 

So far I have tried:

- Warm the pin on valve and let it mould a cone to nylon seal

- Different sizes of rubber O-rings, only to see them to be torn under pressure. One actually caused my gun to go super-full auto, emptying one mag without a need to press the trigger...

- Silicone sealant on nylon seal, just flew out the barrel when shooting

- Greasing, works for couple shots.

- Silicone oil, no help at all.

 

Is there any 3rd party valve that fits?

all kj mags use that seal. none of mine have cracked. perhaps they changed the material? 

 

you can order new ones from KJ. 

[Lone_Bullet]

I' been using the same oldbstyle mags for my kp07 since it came out. Ill probably start a little riot saying this but if they started oud good its up to maintenance to keep them well greased. Apply silucone grease to the co2 capsule before insering and apply it again to an empty co2 capsule for storage. Sometimes the seal\pin will get loose and leak. Unscrew, allpy grease and screw it back in. Let it set for a minute and insert greased capsule. In usage ( on the field) the capsules neednt be greased in my experience. Mine are all 5 leakfree ( though the gun isnt problem free: axles in the hammerassembly including the ambi safety keep deforming after months of usage. And the alu nozzle is your friend ^^

[Lone_Bullet]

Excuse my spelling in previous post, touchscreen and I aren't palls.

[ardrummer292]

Lone_Bullet, thanks for sharing your tips. Does anyone else have any input on keeping CO2 GBBs and their mags functional for long periods of time? Maybe there are certain components need extra attention and/or lubrication?

[CZFan]

shoot it and pop the co2 out. the longer you keep it the more it deforms the plastic seal where the cartridge lip seals with the mag, and the more stress is put onto the rubber seals on the release valve.

 

I beat the hell out of my kjw mags and they like it and ask for more. but Im typically done within half an hour and pop the co2 out.

 

I kept it in a kwc for months and it didn't deform but that appears to be better built mag.

[PureSilver]

Like CZFan says, don't leave the capsules in the magazine - my magazines had actual stickers on them warning me against that when I received them. Apart from that, ordinary pistol maintenance.

[ardrummer292]

Would storing the mags with an empty CO2 canister inserted be a good idea? I could lightly grease the canister nozzle, which I assume would improve the longevity of the magazine's rubber bits.

 

Also, I've never heard a definitive opinion on how to best lubricate a GBB pistol. I'm sure standard lightweight silicon oil will suffice as lubricant. I'm just not sure where it should be applied.

[PureSilver]

I wouldn't even do that - just leave it without anything in there. Mine have been fine for at least a year now.

 

As to pistol lubrication, the general rule I find is white lithium grease on the slide rails, a drop of silicone oil on the BBU O-ring once every blue moon (don't want to do it often, as it will get on the hop-up rubber) and that's it. Resist the urge to spray silicone into the gun's FCG or anywhere else - it will categorically do more harm than good. If you are feeling competent and confident, when you first get the gun you can take it completely apart, clean it and put a very small amount of white lithium grease on axles and sear surfaces in the FCG, and you can repeat this once every few thousand rounds, washing off the old grease which becomes full of metal particles as the gun wears in.

 

Otherwise - hold steady. Don't put silicone anywhere but on the seals.

[Lone_Bullet]

Would storing the mags with an empty CO2 canister inserted be a good idea? I could lightly grease the canister nozzle, which I assume would improve the longevity of the magazine's rubber bits.

 

Also, I've never heard a definitive opinion on how to best lubricate a GBB pistol. I'm sure standard lightweight silicon oil will suffice as lubricant. I'm just not sure where it should be applied.

It's how I store them, cannister nozzle dipped in Guarder silicone grease.. No problem what so ever, in... what, how long ago has the KJWorks MEU been released?

It might be over the top, but I never had problems.

[ardrummer292]

PureSilver, thanks for the tips.

 

I always cleaned my TM G17 like I clean my real Glock: hose it down with lube and wipe off the exterior with a towel. This technique didn't seem to work, seeing as my TM Glock is totaled. I'll be sure not to do that with my KP-01.

[Lone_Bullet]

What puresilver said. Exactly really. Rails with grease, any seal with a drop of silicone oil EXCEPT hoprubber ( it's a seal as well, but you won't like it ) 

At first use and after every 3-6 months, disassemble to tiniest bit if you're capable, degrease in warm water and detergent, rince with water, dry with a towel and blow dry after that, re-grease with a minimum of grease every contact surface of movings parts.

 

So basically what PureSilver said ^^

[CZFan]

Would storing the mags with an empty CO2 canister inserted be a good idea? I could lightly grease the canister nozzle, which I assume would improve the longevity of the magazine's rubber bits.

 

Also, I've never heard a definitive opinion on how to best lubricate a GBB pistol. I'm sure standard lightweight silicon oil will suffice as lubricant. I'm just not sure where it should be applied.

im sure that was already mentioned but in case you need details. no, that would be a horrible idea. you will ident the plastic seal. it is designed to deform a little and create a seal. the more you press against it, the more it will deform. the longer its pressed against, the harder it will  be to return to its original shape and then reform to the new cartridge.

 

think of a pillow. dump a brick on it. leave it there for a month. take brick off. what is pillow like now? exactly.

 

lubing is easy.

 

hammer assembly. just pour some in there.

 

blowback assembly. pull nozzle forward/out and lube it on the inside or at the very least the little rubber seal that sits inside it. then lube the outside of the nozzle where it rubs against the housing and anywhere else. also try to get some on the nozzle spring. most just are squished between the bbu and the slide and grind against either

 

put a little on the recoil rod.

 

put some on the rails. make sure you lube the contact points where the trigger bar and knocker disconnect grind. most of the wear is on those parts/those areas of slide.

 

I use murder oil and synthetic real gun oil. depending on location and gun and whats closer to me. never had an issue with the synthetic eating things like the pure petro based stuff.

 

 

I overoil everything. fire a mag and wipe excess off as it seeps out. done. repeat in 1000 shots or less. whatever gets on the hop up will clear out pretty fast.

 

 

as for degreasing it... I don't even bother breaking it apart. just pop slide off, pour detergent (dishwasher) all over and in all nooks, then use the hand faucet to rinse it out. shake it dry.. shake it some more, kick it outside to dry some more or just reoil as is. oil will displace any water trapped. the only time you need to be more thorough is if the gun has one of those nice hammer springs tucked in the handle where moisture likes to sit. then you might pop that off and dry that area. on a glock tho, there is no such thing so the whole thing drains and dries literally through and through

 

on full metal guns if you want to save time you can use carb cleaner (from your autozone etc). not brake cleaner or engine degreaser! carburetor cleaner or even maf sensor cleaner (that is the mildest, kinda pointless tho).   

 

people overthink airsoft.

[ardrummer292]

 

people overthink airsoft.

 

My track record with pistols is abysmal. Over the 12 years I've been playing, I've only had two (of ten or so) handguns last for longer than a year. If it seems like I'm overthinking it, that is because I believe my lacking maintenance is the culprit behind the demise of all these lovely pieces.

 

For those who are curious, the two "survivors" were a TM P226 and TM Mk23, both of which were sold ages ago.

[CZFan]

My track record with pistols is abysmal. Over the 12 years I've been playing, I've only had two (of ten or so) handguns last for longer than a year. If it seems like I'm overthinking it, that is because I believe my lacking maintenance is the culprit behind the demise of all these lovely pieces.

 

For those who are curious, the two "survivors" were a TM P226 and TM Mk23, both of which were sold ages ago.

airsoft is built like *suitcase*. it all breaks. I only put rounds through stuff I can get parts for. the rest sits on a shelf.

 

so I almost want to say its normal. I also don't touch plastic guns (sorry tm fans, unless I have the desire to dump $$$$ replacing the entire gun with aftermarket, I avoid that brand like the plague)

[ardrummer292]

For those who are interested, I ended up getting a KJW KP-01 as well as a Cyma CM.030. Both have been fielded a few times with no issues. I'll likely write up a long-term review once I've used them more extensively.