klh31 Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 No issues installing the Pachmayr grip (using the screws provided with the replica): Link to post Share on other sites
DeltaZero Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 God I want one! Link to post Share on other sites
Alias1983 Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 Ambi safty is glued in afaik Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 No issues as in drop in fit. Or not issues doing the required mods? You gotta take out some material to accommodate for the CO2 extension on the frame. Link to post Share on other sites
klh31 Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 100% drop in fit. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 Interesting! Here is mine with some airsoft replica black polymer tacticool grips and RS stainless hex head screws. Instant improvement! Also fixed my *fruitcage* up with the pinched internal frame. Pushed it out best I could with some pliers in the frame. Jammed the magazine back in and left it overnight, then just sanded down whatever was left protruding into the frame. Magazine is now a drop in and drop out fit as it was out of the box Preview of RS wood grips in the front. And here is how I modded the grips to fit; I used a the top flat end of a Dremel cylindrical pink bit and worked it like a manual hand held router, eating out the plastic. Worked very well Link to post Share on other sites
Bovinedog Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 yeah, that looks good. Ordered mine from ehobby, only about $8 dollars more than tiger. But at least they have stock. Undecided what to do about grips, have been looking at different ones. So many nice ones Apart from the ones that come with it. They dont look so good. Your wood ones look like they will work well. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 Actually not that fond of the RS wood grips I have. But I think I will have to put them on there just because Link to post Share on other sites
DeltaZero Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 I think im going to order one.. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 I think you thunk correctly sir! Like I have said 100x now, for the money, for what it is out of the box, well worth it for a decent looking full metal CO2 1911. Link to post Share on other sites
icolater Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 It the sear pin fake or color coordinated with the frame? Sorry I can't tell from the pictures. Looks great with the new grips. Oh nice dremel work BTW. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 It's a fake pin. Just an indentation in the frame. Could contour it up a bit by gently rubbing around the outer edge with a needle file I suppose. Thanks Surprised I didn't mess up the grips when working on them. Me and le tools are usually a bad combo Oh one more small detail that I really like, is the slide release lever has the extended rounded edge on the right-hand side for easy no-tools required field strip. Hate when you have to get something to poke that sucker out! Also noticed they added a red dot in the frame behind the left-hand side safety lever. Red means dead I wish that the safety levers weren't glued together because I would like to mod the left-hand side lever a bit, making deeper indentations for the safety. It's not loose by any means but I would like it to click in and out of place a little stiffer. Maybe I can get in there with a file even without taking it off. Funny thing, I had the BBU and nozzle out earlier today because I was wondering if a spring was missing from the nozzle, as the floating valve was just moving about freely. Apparently it just sits in there with nothing, no spring, no floating valve blocker. Don't really get how that works, but I guess it does. Anyways, as I was cleaning up my workspace tonight I found a tiny metal pin on the floor. I was like, hmmm, that looks like a BBU return spring detent (?). Surely enough it had fallen out when I had it apart the first time. Now considering how dirty and messy my workspace is right now it's a miracle that I actually found it Thinking I might put in a KJW OEM 1911 spring or a TM 150% one as the slide snappyness could be even harder (although it also has a spring around the outer barrel behind the bushing). I think I did that to one of my old KWC 1911s actually. With the force of the CO2 it can handle it no problem. Link to post Share on other sites
Crying Scum Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Funny thing, I had the BBU and nozzle out earlier today because I was wondering if a spring was missing from the nozzle, as the floating valve was just moving about freely. Apparently it just sits in there with nothing, no spring, no floating valve blocker. Don't really get how that works, but I guess it does. Is I remember correctly, from KWC 1911, the floating valve moves forward like normal when propellant comes thru. Since the valve is longer then normal, is actually protruding out of the nozzle, in which when a new round is inserted it push the floating valve back, hence no spring needed. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Yeah I figured that is how it must work after I posted. Feels like that would mean a very inconsistent FPS though but I never recall seeing that when chronoing my older ones. As long as it works Link to post Share on other sites
garry Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 I've put these on some of my guns. Might suit yours? http://grips4u.net/product/colt-1911-grips-checkered-logo/ Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Nice! Not a fan of wood grips at all really but I feel this stainless 1911 kind of deserves it somehow. Link to post Share on other sites
scorch Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Got mine today, crisp markings, decent weight. None of that, what's it called? Oh yeah... lubrication. I couldn't believe it. Dry as a bone. Lubed up though. Dat recoil. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 Yeah, same on mine. I kind of prefer it that way. But for people who don't know much about GBB maintenance I can see it being an issue that they come without lubrication out of the box. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 OK so I just dry fired mine a few shots and I remember why I love it so much. Without exaggerating too much, my RA Tech Kimber Royal II on CO2, is super loud, and kicks hard. Let's say that's 100% on kick and sound. Well the KWC 1911s are without a doubt around 80% of that on both kick and sound. Probably the loudest and hardest kicking gun ever, except for the RA Kimber as per above *pew pew* One more thing. The black grips I have on now slide around a bit because the inner and "outer" holes are a little larger than the screw "pin" and the heads. Will have to space that somehow. Preferably with suitable washers. Not too bad but annoying. Link to post Share on other sites
Bovinedog Posted January 21, 2016 Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 Picked mine up yesterday. Im glad I got it, it feels nice and has a pretty good kick. Only had a quick play, after a bit of lube (ooer). Mine came dry as well. Co2 bulb seems to die off pretty quick, but that's what you get for that kick I suppose. Link to post Share on other sites
blobface Posted January 21, 2016 Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 M45A1, it's in Cantonese but it gives you a rough idea. Link to post Share on other sites
JCheeseright Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 I'm 100% keen on getting one of these now having fired a friend's one this evening... one question he couldn't answer that one of you will be able to though: The iron sights, removable? Replacable with RS tritium sights perhaps? Please say yes Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Both front and rear can be removed on my stainless model. No idea about RS sights. Front sight is just pinned from what I can tell and has a bit of play in it. Worried it may come out due to recoil. Rear sight has a standard screw in it from the bottom IIRC. Or maybe it was press fitted... Hmm. They can be removed anyways. Link to post Share on other sites
kilo_64 Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Is the lower on the stainless model painted or anodized? Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 No idea. Feels very solid and tough though. If I were to guess I would say anodized. Or maybe just even bead blasted? Link to post Share on other sites
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