Zereck Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Got mine today tough I could only dry fire so far, I really like it. I did notice that unless you pull the bolt back all the way then let it slam forward then the bolt won't go all the way forward thus no sealing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Makes sense. I just cant believe how much recoil it has. on my phone, my spelling will suck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 So that crazy video (full auto dump with huge shaky arm movement) was accurate? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Very much so. on my phone, my spelling will suck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Damn. Mines en route, or so the parcel force tracker says. . . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wild_XIII Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 I hate you all. Stupid having to pay off debts and stuff before buying another gun. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 My gearbox conked out just as this arrived. on my phone, my spelling will suck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Your TM P90 died? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Nope Land Rover gearbox on my phone, my spelling will suck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Ouch. Thought your TM died at the sight of the new P90. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Nope Land Rover gearbox on my phone, my spelling will suck Thats a landie for ya... I have one such mystical beast also, gives me much grief... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Tbh its only the second land rover related failure since ive owned it, the rest are user inflicted New box isnt all bad, get heavy duty everything done with a higher ratio 5th gear and a new clutch. Unforseen expense but not an unwanted one! What you got? on my phone, my spelling will suck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 Freelander 2006 TD4. Was involved in a crash at some stage which resulted in slightly warped wheel hub assembly. This meant that it wore bearings every 3000km. As a result it have had 12 previous owners. Wasn't till my 3rd bearing set, which I decided to replace the entire hub assembly (which was cheaper than replacing the press fit bearings) thus fixing the problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 (edited) This is true.... yet an regular car would have been written off! I hit a skip lorry in my 90 after a tyre blew out, only had the thing a few months. Bent the front axle but the steel steering gaurd took the brunt. If i had been in my Fiesta it would have been written off and id probably have a few broken bones.... So to not sway toooo much.... Range and accuracy wise the P90 has some real potential, the hop is pretty solid and slinging .28s accurately a fair distance, matching my Kriss, not that the Kriss has astonishing range just real good accuracy. While the current range/accuracy is fine for me at the mo I may buy a few bits see what can be done. on my phone, my spelling will suck Edited November 4, 2015 by bankz5152 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 If its anything like the WE MP7 I have it should go for a good solid 50-60m. I am keen to get one, may wait for the reflex sight version 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptCalvin Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 (edited) Saw a couple of things on here I would like to address. To take the front end off the nozzle you need to drive out a teeny tiny little pin labeled 117 in the parts diagram. Almost impossible to spot unless you reference the diagram The hard trigger pull some are experiencing in semi mode is due to the selector stopping the trigger right before the trigger can trip the sear. If you pull harder you are flexing the trigger past the stop allowing you to break the shot. A fraction of a millimeter makes all the difference. I can see how the trigger transfer bar might have slightly different lengths on different guns with the way they're bent to shape at the factory. The hammer pack in the WE gun is no where near real steel. None of the parts look anywhere near analogous to real steel. But still functions similarly by principle though very unsafe by modern firearm standards. Bumped the rear of the pack with my palm resulted in the primary sear disengaging. Will probably be prone to accidental discharge from shock to the weapon. Definitely rear heavy in relation to the firing grip. The internal reservoir mechanism is a big heavy chunk of pot metal. Boltis cast pot metal. They only finished that one area along the top of it with a machine. Also how's that plastic "bolt stop" been working out for everybody? Edited November 7, 2015 by CaptCalvin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Bolt stops fine, probs done 10 mags or so. No problems, can't imagine it being an issue either (VFC MP5 uses a similar system, not seen any bolt stop issues with that). I wouldnt say its no where near, but its as close as it needs to be. RS firearm internals translated into airsoft don't always work out well. Look at the VFC MP5, thats 95% the same as the RS but the materials where so poor it barely functioned (yes I know its been addressed since) where as the WE took the RS design and made it more airsoft friendly and that works brilliantly. While the bolt is cast pot metal it is very solid, also can't see this being an issue. Either way if it bothers you RA-Tech/Angry Gun will make a steel one soon enough. Though as with all WE's I have owned I shant be buying any 'upgrade' parts just replacing them with standard WE bits when and if the fail. Biggest test will be 10,000 rounds. For me I have found at around 10k WE's issues start to appear, usually easily solved but sometimes not. Time will tell. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptCalvin Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 (edited) Boltstops fine, probs done 10 mags or so. No problems, can't imagine it being an issue either (VFC MP5 uses a similar system, not seen any bolt stop issues with that). I wouldnt say its no where near, but its as close as it needs to be. RS firearm internals translated into airsoft don't always work out well. Look at the VFC MP5, thats 95% the same as the RS but the materials where so poor it barely functioned (yes I know its been addressed since) where as the WE took the RS design and made it more airsoft friendly and that works brilliantly. While the bolt is cast pot metal it is very solid, also can't see this being an issue. Either way if it bothers you RA-Tech/Angry Gun will make a steel one soon enough. Though as with all WE's I have owned I shant be buying any 'upgrade' parts just replacing them with standard WE bits when and if the fail. Biggest test will be 10,000 rounds. For me I have found at around 10k WE's issues start to appear, usually easily solved but sometimes not. Time will tell. Different story for me. At around the 5th mag the bolt yanked the arm so far up it split at the screw hole. I'm actually surprised it survived 10 mags for you. It's a pretty heavy bolt cycling at some pretty insane speeds. I just can't see a plastic part like that holding up to that kind of stress for too long. Had to fabricate myself one out of some scrap pot metal I had lying around. Not a hard piece to replicate but seriously. About the trigger group for example with the WE M4 trigger group the design I'd say is pretty similar to RS just that the dimensions are different. With their P90 trigger pack however the design is completely original. Draws almost no inspiration from RS. Achieves the same functions in the end nonetheless just a lot less shock resistant. And for the record I'm not too worried about the pot metal bolt. Don't have an issue with pot metal bolts in general except for on WA M4s or any bolt that uses a single sidelock plate to retain the nozzle. I do see a potential issue though. After the silicone bolt buffer (part 131) gets beat to a pulp (because mine is already in less than ideal shape) the bolt is going to start beating on part 121. Hope it'll last at least until spare/aftermarket parts come out. Edited November 7, 2015 by CaptCalvin 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Maybe try urethane for a replacement buffer? I use the clear bumper pads with adhesive backs from Ace. The one I stuck in my AK works fantastic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 (edited) Different story for me. At around the 5th mag the bolt yanked the arm so far up it split at the screw hole. I'm actually surprised it survived 10 mags for you. It's a pretty heavy bolt cycling at some pretty insane speeds. I just can't see a plastic part like that holding up to that kind of stress for too long. Had to fabricate myself one out of some scrap pot metal I had lying around. Not a hard piece to replicate but seriously. About the trigger group for example with the WE M4 trigger group the design I'd say is pretty similar to RS just that the dimensions are different. With their P90 trigger pack however the design is completely original. Draws almost no inspiration from RS. Achieves the same functions in the end nonetheless just a lot less shock resistant. And for the record I'm not too worried about the pot metal bolt. Don't have an issue with pot metal bolts in general except for on WA M4s or any bolt that uses a single sidelock plate to retain the nozzle. I do see a potential issue though. After the silicone bolt buffer (part 131) gets beat to a pulp (because mine is already in less than ideal shape) the bolt is going to start beating on part 121. Hope it'll last at least until spare/aftermarket parts come out. After a good look at mind. You are quite right, I am lucky.... That is a small, weak bit of plastic... I hope someone makes a solid version shortly..... This is the bit - Could WE not have charged $15 more and had this part as steel? Its a classic, same thing happend with the M4 series with valve knocker... It is a shame, so early that durability is knocked. on my phone, my spelling will suck Edited November 7, 2015 by bankz5152 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptCalvin Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 (edited) Yup that's the POS I'm talking about. When I get my new phone (because the one I have now broke) I'll take pictures of what happened to mine as well as pictures of the one I cooked up. It's a real shame that they put in a perfectly sound firing pin blocker mechanism for the magazine disconnect function but failed to hook that up to function as a last round disconnect as well. Edited November 8, 2015 by CaptCalvin 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptCalvin Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 Maybe try urethane for a replacement buffer? I use the clear bumper pads with adhesive backs from Ace. The one I stuck in my AK works fantastic. Never worked with urethane... might look into it. How hard is the material? Definitely don't want too much energy transferred into the polymer that the buffer is fastened into. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 Can't say for sure, around 60 durometer at a guess. Fairly rigid/bouncy as it gives rof a good 20% boost at the very least when used as a recoil buffer. If you need something to dampen the force rather than throw it back I guess sorbothane would be more up your alley. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptCalvin Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 (edited) Screw it. Boosting the ROF even higher on a gun with already insane ROF? That's definitely up my alley. Sounds like a sh!t ton of fun. Will definitely give urethane a go when I get the chance. Thanks! Will keep sorbothane in mind as well for future reference. Edited November 8, 2015 by CaptCalvin 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 Sent KIC an email seeing how much they'll charge for a replacement bolt stop (just in case). Once I hear back I'll post the response in here. Never had a problem with KIC, they're always very helpful and to the point. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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