bankz5152 Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Maybe the customs offical was feeling rather amourous at the time... on my phone, my spelling will suck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Hello, what have we here. . . *guitar solo*. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 That's something I would not try and chase up and find if it went missing en route ha ha. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 That aside, apparently the guy who broke his disconnector also broke his auto sear and bolt stop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 They say they come in threes. Could it be user error (being to forceful)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 (edited) Can't say. I'm guessing bbs in the mechanism. He did have problems about misfeeds plus having bbs spill into the guts. Edit: Just to be clear about which parts broke. Edited December 16, 2015 by renegadecow 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BioRage Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 Can't say. I'm guessing bbs in the mechanism. He did have problems about misfeeds plus having bbs spill into the guts. Edit: Just to be clear about which parts broke. I assume RA-TECH is on it, hahahaha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blobface Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 Just to be clear about which parts broke. At this rate, not for long it might be quicker to take pictures of parts that aren't broken... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BioRage Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 RE: WE Taiwan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 They (RATech) posted some parts in 3D a few weeks back. Personally I'd rather see Hephaestus do them plus I think he's the only person so far whose had the disconnector and auto sear break so it may just be down to being a lemon or user error. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BioRage Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 They (RATech) posted some parts in 3D a few weeks back. Personally I'd rather see Hephaestus do them plus I think he's the only person so far whose had the disconnector and auto sear break so it may just be down to being a lemon or user error. Does Heph even make parts for WE? They usually are GHK only, no? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 I have one of their AK FCG sets in mine and is vastly superior to RATech's in every way. Which isn't really saying much because the one by RATech is basically garbage. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BioRage Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 (edited) I have one of their AK FCG sets in mine and is vastly superior to RATech's in every way. Which isn't really saying much because the one by RATech is basically garbage. You mean, RATECH is garbage? Edited December 16, 2015 by BioRage 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted December 16, 2015 Report Share Posted December 16, 2015 I have an issue where my mag won't feed the BBs because the protruding part on the top of the Hop-up unit doesn't push up the mag's lever(which keeps the BBs inside) enough. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 The same guy mentioned above had that too. Sorted by gluing a piece of plasticard on the bottom surface to act as a shim, allowing it to open wider. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 I put a rubber buffer on the bolt stop. Now to wait and see if it makes a difference. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 Is it odd I'm trying to read the newspaper? 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnyew Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 No, not odd at all. Please post the comics section next. Thank you very much. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 22, 2015 Report Share Posted December 22, 2015 (edited) Made a mistake. That part no.17 that broke which I mistook for a hammer and corrected as being a disconnector is in fact a sear, as in THE main sear for the hammer. So I don't know what's going on when the guy said he lost semi auto when it broke because you'll loose all functionality of the gun if it did. Further more, the sear gets very little stress under normal operation and even the softest of Matchbox-grade pot metal should be good enough to withstand the forces it encounters so I'm now almost positive that debris (like a bb) had to have wedged itself in there to break it. Now on to other things I've been tinkering with: Trigger spacer - anything to pick up the slack between the trigger and transfer bar will work for correcting that ridiculously hard pull on some units. But using anything mushy like rubber tubes or wire insulation will be largely felt by the trigger finger as being spongy. So it's best (unless you like sponges) to use rigid materials like this shoe I made out of ABS. Now, that same guy mentioned above also broke his auto sear or at least part of it. The auto sear only really does come into stress when it's being utilized for full auto. During semi auto the bolt carrier still hits it per usual, but not under the strain of being held against the hammer. It broke right at the corner of the top reinforced part which leads me to think it's just down to being a design flaw (or don't spam on full auto like it's GTA) instead of a material flaw or else it would have broken around the pin hole which has considerably less material. So, I just radiused said offensive corner. before after *I deepened the radius a touch more after taking the pic as you can still see a faint bit of corner going on Edited December 22, 2015 by renegadecow 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L2E Posted December 22, 2015 Report Share Posted December 22, 2015 Made a mistake. That part no.17 that broke which I mistook for a hammer and corrected as being a disconnector is in fact a sear, as in THE main sear for the hammer. So I don't know what's going on when the guy said he lost semi auto when it broke because you'll loose all functionality of the gun if it did. Further more, the sear gets very little stress under normal operation and even the softest of Matchbox-grade pot metal should be good enough to withstand the forces it encounters so I'm now almost positive that debris (like a bb) had to have wedged itself in there to break it. Now on to other things I've been tinkering with: Trigger spacer - anything to pick up the slack between the trigger and transfer bar will work for correcting that ridiculously hard pull on some units. But using anything mushy like rubber tubes or wire insulation will be largely felt by the trigger finger as being spongy. So it's best (unless you like sponges) to use rigid materials like this shoe I made out of ABS. Now, that same guy mentioned above also broke his auto sear or at least part of it. The auto sear only really does come into stress when it's being utilized for full auto. During semi auto the bolt carrier still hits it per usual, but not under the strain of being held against the hammer. It broke right at the corner of the top reinforced part which leads me to think it's just down to being a design flaw (or don't spam on full auto like it's GTA) instead of a material flaw or else it would have broken around the pin hole which has considerably less material. So, I just radiused said offensive corner. before after *I deepened the radius a touch more after taking the pic as you can still see a faint bit of corner going on Excellent work! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L2E Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 Made a mistake. That part no.17 that broke which I mistook for a hammer and corrected as being a disconnector is in fact a sear, as in THE main sear for the hammer. So I don't know what's going on when the guy said he lost semi auto when it broke because you'll loose all functionality of the gun if it did. Further more, the sear gets very little stress under normal operation and even the softest of Matchbox-grade pot metal should be good enough to withstand the forces it encounters so I'm now almost positive that debris (like a bb) had to have wedged itself in there to break it. Now on to other things I've been tinkering with: Trigger spacer - anything to pick up the slack between the trigger and transfer bar will work for correcting that ridiculously hard pull on some units. But using anything mushy like rubber tubes or wire insulation will be largely felt by the trigger finger as being spongy. So it's best (unless you like sponges) to use rigid materials like this shoe I made out of ABS. Now, that same guy mentioned above also broke his auto sear or at least part of it. The auto sear only really does come into stress when it's being utilized for full auto. During semi auto the bolt carrier still hits it per usual, but not under the strain of being held against the hammer. It broke right at the corner of the top reinforced part which leads me to think it's just down to being a design flaw (or don't spam on full auto like it's GTA) instead of a material flaw or else it would have broken around the pin hole which has considerably less material. So, I just radiused said offensive corner. before after *I deepened the radius a touch more after taking the pic as you can still see a faint bit of corner going on I think you will start to see requests for measurements or drawings... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Feyd Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 You can tweak the trigger transfer bar if the trigger is stiff on semi, but that little insert is a far better solution. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 (edited) Looks like my little rubber buffer on the bolt catch experiment is paying off. I've done at least a couple dozen intentional bolt stops now, probably three dozen including the ones I've done without paying attention while watching YouTube. The catch itself is doing fine, but the left side edge which is supposed to keep it from bottoming out at the right ledge of the hop chamber looks to be getting chewed out, but is literally a minuscule 0.5mm thick ledge anyway. No cracking, but the 2mm thick buffer I put in has split (yes, that's how much force it takes and that's how bored I am doing bolt stops for no reason). Still works as a buffer right now, mind you, but if this keeps up it looks like a consumable mod done every month or so of regular use. Beats having a part completely broken at any rate and the steel one by RATech will no doubt knacker the hop chamber anyway. Edit: I just noticed that the bolt carrier doesn't come into full contact with the bolt stop which may explain why the rubber tore. So, it true Xzibit fashion, I put a buffer on my buffer. torn rubber buffer with polycarbonate reinforcement Edited December 24, 2015 by renegadecow 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 (edited) Couldn't edit above. Polycarbonate didn't work: added length blocks the bolt from coming into battery. I guess having to replace the plain rubber piece once it cracks isn't too bad. Edited December 24, 2015 by renegadecow 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L2E Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 good stuff renegadecow! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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