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Edit:whoops should've taken a better look at the pictures.

What did you use to secure the buffers to the bolt stop?

And with the primary sear broken I'd imagine you can still get some full auto functionality with the gun with the selector on semi. Hold the trigger back while you charge the gun, let the trigger go and the gun fires in full auto, then pull the trigger again to stop firing xD

Edited by CaptCalvin
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I never even realised you could do this... might make this the default even at the risk of being banned from forum. Also, the way you stuck the dragon through the thumb hole... looked wrong. 

Made a mistake. That part no.17 that broke which I mistook for a hammer and corrected as being a disconnector is in fact a sear, as in THE main sear for the hammer. So I don't know what's going on whe

Is it odd I'm trying to read the newspaper?

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The third rubber buffer I put on tore again and what's left of my super glue has hardened so bad that I can only use it as threadlock. Not wanting to go out just for a bottle of super glue, I went for the obvious option: reproduce the damn bolt stop in nylon. Nylon because it's stronger than polycarbonate while still having a good amount of flex so as not to mangle the hop chamber. I made some design changes, mainly beefing up the area where the stock part is known to crack, and smoothed out the steps in thickness. Also, looking closely at the stock part, I made sure to replicate the small ledge on the left side. Without it the full force of the bolt is transfered directly to that small ledge on the right side where the bolt catch spring rests against and broke on CaptCalvin's unit when he made a metal catch.

 

Left and right side compared to original.

IMG_7569.jpg

IMG_7568.jpg

 

Secondary bearing surface circled in red.

IMG_7570.jpg

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Yeah you definitely don't want a steel bolt stop at least not when they just replicated the original design. The pot metal one I made in this design busted up my hopup chamber. That ledge you mentioned is actually what broke the tray that held the spring. That ledge transferred the force onto the rim on the edge of the tray. But without it it'll probably kink up the spring bad, but at least the force would be transferred more towards the middle. It's probably not a big issue at all when you've made the part out of a more flexible material. Even if somebody does make steel hopup chamber i'm not sure that'll even be good enough if you just dropped in their steel bolt stop on it. Very curious as to how the nylon bolt stop has been working out.

Edited by CaptCalvin
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The hard rubber piece in the stock? It's still intact, around 700-1000 rounds through it so far. I wanted to add that urethane buffer I used on my AK but my rof as it is is already doing 1,500rpm.

 

Edit:

Also don't put an extra buffer on the back of the bolt assembly. The carrier doesn't actually hit that part but instead bottoms out on a rubber buffer above it in the stock. If you add a buffer (at the back of the bolt) thicker than the buffer in the stock, all force of the bolt carrier will be delivered to the thin area of the stock and may damage it.

Edited by renegadecow
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I'd be more concerned with where the broken off pieces are. If it gets jammed in the right spot in the trigger pack it could likely break something.

 

Edit:

For what it's worth it seems only the middle part really gets any abuse where the back of the bolt has a raised area surrounding the pin.

Edited by renegadecow
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Found the piece that broke off on the floor actually. And I think the bump at the back of the bolt is only part of the problem. The main issue I think is the fact that shock isn't delivered across the entire surface, but only half of it, with the other half tucked up into the stock. It's why I imagine the buffer gets a horizontal split in the middle like that.

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