CaptCalvin Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 (edited) Edit:whoops should've taken a better look at the pictures. What did you use to secure the buffers to the bolt stop? And with the primary sear broken I'd imagine you can still get some full auto functionality with the gun with the selector on semi. Hold the trigger back while you charge the gun, let the trigger go and the gun fires in full auto, then pull the trigger again to stop firing xD Edited December 24, 2015 by CaptCalvin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 25, 2015 Report Share Posted December 25, 2015 I'm using industrial cyanoacrylate that's already gone bad (thickened) which now has the same strength as regular super glue. Surface of the bolt stop was lightly sanded for better adhesion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DamnLion Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 Man, when I get my hands on one of these, I have so many plans for it with DMLS parts. You could probably start already with shapeways, renegade. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 Maybe for a USG upper, but that's gonna cost a lot if sintered. I wouldn't mind a plastic one as the stock one's proving itself plenty durable as it is. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DamnLion Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 That's part of my plan. If not a whole upper, then at least an adaptor for the CA upper I have lying around. Definitely a steel hopup chamber, if it's not cost prohibitive. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 Steel hop chamber and steel bolt stop needed asap. USG upper for sure, im patient! on my phone, my spelling will suck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DamnLion Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 I'm never going to be able to afford one unless I *very reluctantly* sell my vector Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 Tbh i'd keep the Vector. I kept mine, P90 is more available. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 This^ Unless of course, you only have room for one. Then that's a very tough call and one that I do not envy. Vectors are more unique (in my opinion). 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DamnLion Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 I'll just sell a kidney. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 The third rubber buffer I put on tore again and what's left of my super glue has hardened so bad that I can only use it as threadlock. Not wanting to go out just for a bottle of super glue, I went for the obvious option: reproduce the damn bolt stop in nylon. Nylon because it's stronger than polycarbonate while still having a good amount of flex so as not to mangle the hop chamber. I made some design changes, mainly beefing up the area where the stock part is known to crack, and smoothed out the steps in thickness. Also, looking closely at the stock part, I made sure to replicate the small ledge on the left side. Without it the full force of the bolt is transfered directly to that small ledge on the right side where the bolt catch spring rests against and broke on CaptCalvin's unit when he made a metal catch. Left and right side compared to original. Secondary bearing surface circled in red. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cire_ Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Glad i did not buy one right away.Hope Ratech is working hard onmthis one Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 2, 2016 Report Share Posted January 2, 2016 LOL! I'm doing this in hopes of avoiding RATech garbage. Also, it's not like everyone's bolt stops are breaking and if you notice mine's actually still intact so it's likely a lemon issue like bubbles in casting in TM nozzles. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptCalvin Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 (edited) Yeah you definitely don't want a steel bolt stop at least not when they just replicated the original design. The pot metal one I made in this design busted up my hopup chamber. That ledge you mentioned is actually what broke the tray that held the spring. That ledge transferred the force onto the rim on the edge of the tray. But without it it'll probably kink up the spring bad, but at least the force would be transferred more towards the middle. It's probably not a big issue at all when you've made the part out of a more flexible material. Even if somebody does make steel hopup chamber i'm not sure that'll even be good enough if you just dropped in their steel bolt stop on it. Very curious as to how the nylon bolt stop has been working out. Edited January 3, 2016 by CaptCalvin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 You misunderstand. The (2nd) ledge I'm talking about (circled red in last pic) doesn't come into contact that part that holds the spring. It's towards the bolt and pushes against the back surface of the hop chamber when raised so the force is distributed on it as well. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptCalvin Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 Ahhhhh... I had overlooked this completely. I just assumed they thickened that end to increase the bearing surface with the bolt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptCalvin Posted January 7, 2016 Report Share Posted January 7, 2016 Just curious... how has your recoil buffer been holding up? Mine's got a pretty gnarly split in the middle horizontally after like half a dozen mag dumps but it seem to be holding together after that even though it does feel like it's just barely holding together when I take it out to examine it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 Would you mind taking a picture of it, be interesting to see? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 (edited) The hard rubber piece in the stock? It's still intact, around 700-1000 rounds through it so far. I wanted to add that urethane buffer I used on my AK but my rof as it is is already doing 1,500rpm. Edit: Also don't put an extra buffer on the back of the bolt assembly. The carrier doesn't actually hit that part but instead bottoms out on a rubber buffer above it in the stock. If you add a buffer (at the back of the bolt) thicker than the buffer in the stock, all force of the bolt carrier will be delivered to the thin area of the stock and may damage it. Edited January 8, 2016 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptCalvin Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 I'm starting to think it's just my gun having all these problems. Did you take it out to see? Because yes mine does look intact if I just peer through the back of the stock. But when I take it out... I might as well snip all those tabs off now and flip it around and see where that takes me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 (edited) I'd be more concerned with where the broken off pieces are. If it gets jammed in the right spot in the trigger pack it could likely break something. Edit: For what it's worth it seems only the middle part really gets any abuse where the back of the bolt has a raised area surrounding the pin. Edited January 8, 2016 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptCalvin Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 Found the piece that broke off on the floor actually. And I think the bump at the back of the bolt is only part of the problem. The main issue I think is the fact that shock isn't delivered across the entire surface, but only half of it, with the other half tucked up into the stock. It's why I imagine the buffer gets a horizontal split in the middle like that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 Make (or directly stick over) a urethane replacement with a recess for that raised part of the bolt? There's enough room for about 1" more of buffer material before it's too short stroked. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L2E Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 This thread should be REQUIRED reading for all companies attempting to make replacement parts for the P90! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BioRage Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 This thread should be REQUIRED reading for all companies attempting to make replacement parts for the P90! Every companies response. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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