blobface Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 (edited) My mags that were all leaking, and repaired with the oily wiggle fix, are still holding gas since 2 weeks ago... have you tried the wiggle? Edited May 25, 2016 by blobface 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vasriotaep Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 Check this, I work for me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 Just watched your vid. That looks like it may work. Thanks Had the parts soaking in silicone oil for about a week, just slowed the leak slightly. Ill try you sealant idea though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vasriotaep Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 (edited) Two rules, lot of seal and lot of dry time Edited May 25, 2016 by Vasriotaep 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 Take the trigger pack out and with the hammer cocked, take a good photo of the hooks engaging the sear. http://imgur.com/a/lKWQ4 First picture shows exactly how it was after I took it out of the gun. I could push it down further and it would stay there on the second picture. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 All leaking from part 133 I believe http://manual.weairsoft.com/GBB-Rifle/WE-T_A_2015_GBBR_Manual.pdf Easy enough to tell if you dunk it in water. Bubbles from the middle and it's 133 & 134. From the side and it's 132 & 135 which is fixed with sealant (lower half of 132 until 135 only). Make sure you degrease all that oil off first though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 http://imgur.com/a/lKWQ4 First picture shows exactly how it was after I took it out of the gun. I could push it down further and it would stay there on the second picture. Definitely not wear. The sear is hardly engaging the hammer at all!Next, if you push no. 24 of the trigger pack, is there any slack before it starts pushing the sear (no. 17)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 Definitely not wear. The sear is hardly engaging the hammer at all! Next, if you push no. 24 of the trigger pack, is there any slack before it starts pushing the sear (no. 17)? There is absolutely no slack. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 (edited) Ok, now can you take a photo of the trigger pack from the back, focusing particularly on part no. 17? Edit: And did you put any form of spacer on part no. 24 that could cause it to pre-engage backwards? Edited May 25, 2016 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 Hmm I put a spacer on the part 66(the trigger bar) and it seems when i push the trigger pack back in it presses on enough to engage the hammer. Im gonna try without a spacer, tough it is a bit weird as it was the same for a time now and the issue only started recently. By the way the spacer was just a few rounds of electrical tape around the trigger bar. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 Ok so the issue was actually the trigger bar itself not resetting and not the spacer. http://imgur.com/a/LQWVa First picture before trigger pull secoind is after. This is on semi. On full auto it resets correctly unless I release the trigger very slowly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 Doubt it's the trigger or trigger bar because the sear was already falling short even with the trigger pack out of the gun. I suspected part no. 24 of the trigger pack was pre-engaging either because something is impeding it's movement forward or its spring is missing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted May 26, 2016 Report Share Posted May 26, 2016 Yeah I was wrong even without the trigger bar the issue is happening. What I noticed is that if I slowly pull and release the charging handle the issue won't happen but that's not very useful of course. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted May 26, 2016 Report Share Posted May 26, 2016 Again, please, just take a picture of the back of your trigger pack. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted May 26, 2016 Report Share Posted May 26, 2016 Sorry I had really sh*tty internet today. Tried to take some pics don't know if you will see anything on them: http://imgur.com/a/86cVY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted May 26, 2016 Report Share Posted May 26, 2016 Just the second one will do actually. And it tells me a lot. First is that it's not from no.24 not being able to move forward enough to let no.17 rotate back enough or that anything else is obstructing no.17. I'm 99% positive your sear has gone out of alignment with its pin, no.25 getting bent. Just carefully punch the pin out, hammer straight and reinstall. It also helps if you file the heel of no.17 a bit just so it is able to rotate backwards an extra 1-2 degrees so it engages the hammer completely. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zereck Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 You were right the pin was bent: http://imgur.com/peAZ6HK I tought at least the pins are made of stronger material. I haven't even used mine that much. Oh well at least I know the issue now, thanks for the help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vasriotaep Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Renegadecow, you're amazing And this P90 is really a big piece of zamac Quote Link to post Share on other sites
machgo Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 (edited) If "zamac" means pure fkunicg garbage, you are 100 per cent correct... Chalk up another failure: Pin 25 is also bent, as Renegade Cow mentioned. The semi auto sear yielded to absolutely minimal side pressure while removing the trigger pack from the housing. What is the consensus on the steel parts sets mentioned above? I would like to avoid dumping too much more money into this junk pile, but would like to fix it...seems like stock parts would fail early, as they have already--this gun has not had that many rounds through it. Edited June 2, 2016 by machgo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jal3 Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 I don't get. Seriously i think any WE GBB i get in my hands have failed due to *suitcasey* material of a triggerset part. Valve knocker, disconnector, knocker reset, etc... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blobface Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 So my bolt stop has finally crapped out.. seems kinda insane that nobody has released a stronger plastic replacement part so far. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 To be fair, the semi auto sear isn't supposed to get any sideways pressure in normal operation. But yeah, pot metal. Won't say zamak myself as that's a specific zinc alloy which is incredibly robust (what the Hi-Point pistol slides are made of, and those are real guns!) while WE's is more like melted down Matchboxes. Nobody really chiming in on the Z-parts kit though. Won't be needing it myself in the near future either as I got spare stock parts from KYAirsoft. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mechakon Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 (edited) Hi guys, I have the Z-parts complete trigger group. It's extremely high quality and have used it for multiple games and backyard shooting. Trigger pull also seems to have been improved as I perceive there to requires less actuation force. EDIT: I'm aware that RA-tech have also released steel hammers and sears, but I find the Z-part to be of higher quality and tooling. I particularly like the roller that contacts the bolt on the Z-parts kit. I found that my cycling is smoother and slightly faster as well. Edited June 4, 2016 by mechakon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
machgo Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 (edited) I guess I have to decide if I want to change ten dollars of parts every couple thousand rounds or pay 60 or so dollars for--I hope--a final solution... Not going for the full trigger box in any event, as I don't think a lot of the parts are prone to failure. Looking at the sear and hammer set myself. Thanks mechakon for the input. Renegade Cow--what's your feeling on changing JUST the hammer and sear set to steel, and leaving everything else stock? Edited June 4, 2016 by machgo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 The auto sear is fairly robust and don't see it wearing down even against a steel hammer, but make sure you at least do that radius relief cut on the auto sear extension (the small part the bolt trips which is also prone to break). Then again, that's only about $20 more for the full set short of a complete trigger pack. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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