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I never even realised you could do this... might make this the default even at the risk of being banned from forum. Also, the way you stuck the dragon through the thumb hole... looked wrong. 

Made a mistake. That part no.17 that broke which I mistook for a hammer and corrected as being a disconnector is in fact a sear, as in THE main sear for the hammer. So I don't know what's going on whe

Is it odd I'm trying to read the newspaper?

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Easy enough to tell if you dunk it in water. Bubbles from the middle and it's 133 & 134. From the side and it's 132 & 135 which is fixed with sealant (lower half of 132 until 135 only). Make sure you degrease all that oil off first though.

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http://imgur.com/a/lKWQ4

 

First picture shows exactly how it was after I took it out of the gun. I could push it down further and it would stay there on the second picture.

Definitely not wear. The sear is hardly engaging the hammer at all!

Next, if you push no. 24 of the trigger pack, is there any slack before it starts pushing the sear (no. 17)?

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Hmm I put a spacer on the part 66(the trigger bar) and it seems when i push the trigger pack back in it presses on enough to engage the hammer. Im gonna try without a spacer, tough it is a bit weird as it was the same for a time now and the issue only started recently. By the way the spacer was just a few rounds of electrical tape around the trigger bar. :P

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Just the second one will do actually. And it tells me a lot.

First is that it's not from no.24 not being able to move forward enough to let no.17 rotate back enough or that anything else is obstructing no.17.

I'm 99% positive your sear has gone out of alignment with its pin, no.25 getting bent. Just carefully punch the pin out, hammer straight and reinstall. It also helps if you file the heel of no.17 a bit just so it is able to rotate backwards an extra 1-2 degrees so it engages the hammer completely.

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If "zamac" means pure fkunicg garbage, you are 100 per cent correct...

Chalk up another failure:

 

 

 

Pin 25 is also bent, as Renegade Cow mentioned.  The semi auto sear yielded to absolutely minimal side pressure while removing the trigger pack from the housing.

 

What is the consensus on the steel parts sets mentioned above?  I would like to avoid dumping too much more money into this junk pile, but would like to fix it...seems like stock parts would fail early, as they have already--this gun has not had that many rounds through it.post-12608-0-76226200-1464899485_thumb.jpg

Edited by machgo
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To be fair, the semi auto sear isn't supposed to get any sideways pressure in normal operation. But yeah, pot metal. Won't say zamak myself as that's a specific zinc alloy which is incredibly robust (what the Hi-Point pistol slides are made of, and those are real guns!) while WE's is more like melted down Matchboxes.

Nobody really chiming in on the Z-parts kit though. Won't be needing it myself in the near future either as I got spare stock parts from KYAirsoft.

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Hi guys,

 

I have the Z-parts complete trigger group.  It's extremely high quality and have used it for multiple games and backyard shooting.  Trigger pull also seems to have been improved as I perceive there to requires less actuation force.

 

EDIT: I'm aware that RA-tech have also released steel hammers and sears, but I find the Z-part to be of higher quality and tooling.  I particularly like the roller that contacts the bolt on the Z-parts kit.  I found that my cycling is smoother and slightly faster as well. 

Edited by mechakon
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I guess I have to decide if I want to change ten dollars of parts every couple thousand rounds or pay 60 or so dollars for--I hope--a final solution...

 

Not going for the full trigger box in any event, as I don't think a lot of the parts are prone to failure.  Looking at the sear and hammer set myself. Thanks mechakon for the input.

 

Renegade Cow--what's your feeling on changing JUST the hammer and sear set to steel, and leaving everything else stock?

 

ZPS-WE-P90-003-1L.jpg

Edited by machgo
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The auto sear is fairly robust and don't see it wearing down even against a steel hammer, but make sure you at least do that radius relief cut on the auto sear extension (the small part the bolt trips which is also prone to break). Then again, that's only about $20 more for the full set short of a complete trigger pack.

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