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I never even realised you could do this... might make this the default even at the risk of being banned from forum. Also, the way you stuck the dragon through the thumb hole... looked wrong. 

Made a mistake. That part no.17 that broke which I mistook for a hammer and corrected as being a disconnector is in fact a sear, as in THE main sear for the hammer. So I don't know what's going on whe

Is it odd I'm trying to read the newspaper?

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Well I was chronoing my gun(the gun's FPS was very inconsistent(even for a gbb). it was usually 1j but then the next shot could be 0.9 to 1.3j) when a gun did a burst(well it was more like 2 fast trigger pulls) and I could no longer shoot. I heard rattling inside the gun and after shaking them out there was a BB and a broken part of part #22:

http://imgur.com/a/WzKBa

Kind of unlucky with this gun. :P

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Does anybody have problem with inconsistent power at the muzzle?  Sometimes the bb would shoot normally at 1.3J using .25 bbs, but there's the occasional bb that just drops out the barrel as though there's not enough gas to propel it.  Last night, I was at a game and the problem escalated to the point where all my bb's were shooting well below the usual standard.  As I investigated more and put several rounds through the chrono to confirm, the whole thing just stopped firing.  Upon closer inspection, i discovered that the two-piece nozzle broke where the pin goes through, and as a result i'm now short of a rocket valve and spring.

 

I remember from a previous post someone mentioning that the rocket valve has the potential to get stuck inside the nozzle and not being able to reset itself, hence the reduction of gas flow.  Can anyone agree with this?

 

Thanks!

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Floating/rocket valves can get stuck forward (usually from its spring getting wedged against it), but when it does it's usually at the totally closed position so what you get is no forward gas flow at all so it will cycle but bbs roll out the barrel.

Thanks for the info! Is there any fix for this?

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I received the Z-parts set pictured below from Red Wolf very quickly, and installed it right away.

 

Fitment is perfect, with absolutely no filing or modifying required.  Gun once again shoots in semi and full auto.

 

Definitely recommended if your shttiy zinc parts are breaking or worn.

 

ZPS-WE-P90-002-1L.jpg

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I received the Z-parts set pictured below from Red Wolf very quickly, and installed it right away.

 

Fitment is perfect, with absolutely no filing or modifying required.  Gun once again shoots in semi and full auto.

 

Definitely recommended if your shttiy zinc parts are breaking or worn.

 

ZPS-WE-P90-002-1L.jpg

Nice! Did you notice any difference in the trigger pull? 

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RA-Tech has released a steel bolt.  Does anyone have or will be trying one?

 

My main concern is that the added reciprocating mass will break the cross bar that holds the spring guide and the hop up unit.  If only RA-tech would also make these parts in steel I would jump on it in a heartbeat!

 

Please let me know your thoughts!

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I don't see it adding too much mass as I imagine the zinc alloy itself is of comparable weight to the steel. Though I would still definitely stay away from RA-tech. I don't see a steel bolt carrier here as necessary anyway. But if you must have a steel bolt carrier I'd look at the CAT one instead. It has a more realistic shape and although I can't find any weight figures right now it does look to have less material than the ra-tech or the OEM if you're concerned about reciprocating mass. Also the bolt carrier doesn't come in contact with the cross bar, assuming the elastic buffer in the stock is functioning properly.

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As for me I keep it on and I expect it to function. I get GBBs for realism and if the gun keeps cycling after rounds run dry that kills realism for me. Also real potential for someone to keep shooting at someone thinking they're sending projectiles down range when they aren't. At least with an AEG there are distinct audio cues.

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